Political stability brings a more conservative mode and a richer "look" During the Napoleonic era, women's fashion continued to follow the straight, neo-Classical lines popularized during the Thermidorian Reaction and Directory periods, but the exaggerated simplicity gradually disappeared. Political stability also placed an emphasis on feminine modesty and domesticity. Though ancient and exotic "orientalist" motifs in dress remained stylish, heavier fabrics like silk, satin, and velvet also became part of the fashionable wardrobe. Throughout the French First Empire, plain gowns gave way to increasing ornamentation like flounces, lace, or bands of embroidery, especially, near the hem. Long sleeves and high necks as well as low became fashionable. Stiff, standing, lace collars, Elizabethan or Spanish neck ruffs, and sleeves "slashed" open to reveal undersleeves reflected the growing trend for medieval and Renaissance motifs that was part of the Gothic revival. Masculine and military elements also appeared in women's clothing. The men's tailored, full-length overcoat, known as a redingote, was adapted for feminine wear, and some fashion illustrations show shako-inspired hats. The creation of an imperial court revived the emphasis on ornate, formal attire, and Napoleon personally liked to see women richly arrayed. He also sought to stimulate French textile manufacture, particularly the silk industry, which had been damaged by the Revolution. During the Empire, women wore printed fabrics, like those produced at the Jouy factory, which Napoleon himself had personally toured. French-made imitation cashmere shawls also graced fashionable wardrobes. The leading arbiter of feminine style during the Empire was Louis Hypolitte Leroy. He had been Queen Marie Antoinette's former hairdresser, survived the Revolution, and achieved near celebrity status by dressing the leading women of the Empire. The most celebrated consumer of fashion for the era was the Empress Josephine, who, by the year 1809, owned more than 800 gowns (her extravagance was a constant source of friction in her marriage to Napoleon). More Napoleon: Introductory Guide Introduction Prejudice and Pride Napoleon in Military School The Young Artillerist's Double Life Revolution & Opportunity Women's Fashion During the Revolution The Siege of Toulon Napoleon & Josephine Women's Fashion during the Directory Fame & Glory: Italy Fame & Glory: Egypt Saviour or Usurper Battle of Marengo Civil Achievments Enlightened Despot or Tyrant Napoleon's Siblings The Dawn of Gastronomy Haydn and Beethoven Women's Fashion during the Empire Napoleon's Other Women The Mashalate and Imperial Eagle History's Greatest General? Back to Table of Contents -- Napoleon #17 Back to Napoleon List of Issues Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List © Copyright 2001 by Napoleon LLC. This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. The full text and graphics from other military history magazines and gaming magazines are available at http://www.magweb.com Order Napoleon magazine direct