After the Reign of Terror, women's dress outrages the Pope and moralists After the Thermidorian Reaction, conspicuous consumption revived, and new styles favored by the young, parvenue women known as merveilleuses (marvelous ones) became theatrically fanciful. After the austerity and puritanical zeal of the Terror, fashionable society once again sought extravagant amusement. While Revolutionary leaders had espoused Greek and Roman ideals of civic virtue and patriotism, the nouveaux riches embraced the exotic lure of antiquity and affected "ancient" dress. Merveilleuses favored, thin, almost transparent, straight gowns with short sleeves, high waists, and low necks. White became an especially popular color and dominated the fashion palette of the early 19th century. The new modes were advertised as being of ancient Greek or Roman inspiration, and often featured shawls and sandals as accessories. Gowns and hairstyles were named for Psyche, Diana, Medusa, Cleopatra, and Titus. Napoleon's Egyptian campaign (1798-1801) further popularized the vogue for exotic garb like tunics, turbans, and shawls with Eastern patterns. Many dresses featured puffed sleeves ‡ la Mameluke, named for Egypt's ruling caste. Because the dresses of the era revealed the contours of the body and undergarments were reduced to a chemise and abbreviated corset, moralists found the new styles disconcerting. The Pope officially condemned lascivious feminine attire, and doctors asserted that the exiguous gowns were unhealthy. Many of the excessively revealing gowns were for evening balls, since dancing had become a popular fad in Paris during the Directory. Relatively few women routinely wore "see through" garments. Two social leaders who did embrace the most extreme styles were Therese Tallien and Josephine de Beauharnais, both known for their scandalous, amorous affairs. More Napoleon: Introductory Guide Introduction Prejudice and Pride Napoleon in Military School The Young Artillerist's Double Life Revolution & Opportunity Women's Fashion During the Revolution The Siege of Toulon Napoleon & Josephine Women's Fashion during the Directory Fame & Glory: Italy Fame & Glory: Egypt Saviour or Usurper Battle of Marengo Civil Achievments Enlightened Despot or Tyrant Napoleon's Siblings The Dawn of Gastronomy Haydn and Beethoven Women's Fashion during the Empire Napoleon's Other Women The Mashalate and Imperial Eagle History's Greatest General? Back to Table of Contents -- Napoleon #17 Back to Napoleon List of Issues Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List © Copyright 2001 by Napoleon LLC. This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. The full text and graphics from other military history magazines and gaming magazines are available at http://www.magweb.com Order Napoleon magazine direct