Uniforms of the Thirty Years War

General Introduction

By Bill Boyle


The concept of uniforms was under development during the Thirty Years War. Therefore all comments are neither inclusive, exclusive or definitive. Gustavus Adolphus was the driving force behind standard uniforms. Although no armies of the period really had uniforms, per say, coat colors and sometimes facings and/or cuff colors for each regiment were used by the end of the war.

Early war armies, on the other hand, used a style of dress much closer to the landesknecht. Mercenary units still had tendencies of flamboyant dress, to prove distinguish themselves as professional soldiers, separate from society.

The following information and theories on uniforms have been culled from my reading about the war, with the most useful sources in the bibiography. Osprey has several books that cover specific armies. Armies so covered are given limited treatment in this article. There is a tremendous amount of material available for the English Civil War and the style of dress is similar. Osprey also covers Samurai, (the Age of War is the same time frame and similar tactics) and Mogul (same time frame).

Remember, anything you want to paint can not be disproved and even individual soldiers in a regiment might have differant dress due to hardships and scrounging. I might even expect to see renaissance type units across the table from me, especially prior to 1631, so have fun and let your imagination run free.

General Comments on Accouterments

Any really good ECW book on uniforms, (which are readily available) will supply most of your needs in this area. The key differances between the ECW and the continent is the armor worn by mounted troops. Most cavalry wore 3/4 armor, at least until the 1640s. This armor was often blackened (they weren't called swartz reiters for nothing ). The French, Swedes and Poles were the only armies with significant numbers of medium cavalry. Harquebusiers and caribins, an early form of dragoon not used in the ECW, usually wore either back and brestplate with a pot helmut or no armor. Wallenstein banned backplates for harquebusiers after their poor performance at Lutzen, and the Austrian Army continued this practice until cavalry stopped wearing armor altogether.

BUFF COATS

Buff coats could be worn over or under 3/4 armor. Foot officers also wore buff, as did dragoons and some medium cavalry. These coats were sometimes washed black, and usually sleeveless. The reason buff coats were used as the primary armor in the ECW was the lack of armor. Buff coats were rarely used by the infantry. (Infantry was treated as a disposable commodity, particulary during the last half of the war.) Although Sweden was a primary source of elk hides used to make buff coats, the Swedes seldom used this armor and based tacitcs partly to offset their lack of armor. The hides were too valuable as an cash export to use. After 1635, as Swedish tactics became the standard cavalry tactic, the use of 3/4 armor declined. Buff coats became more popular for cavalry as a result.

PANTS

The Swedes tried to have the pants match the coats, as did late war armies. Better dressed units, (such as elites, Wallenstein, or Saxon) would match or contrast. Otherwise, brown, tan, dull red, white, or whatever was stolen from the peasants that morning could be used.

LEATHER EQUIPMENT

Leather was usually not washed black nor dyed white, but if you want to spruce up your elite units, feel free. Danes, Swedes, and possibly Brandenberg used grey eelskin and this can be used to give a nice contrast with primary coat colors. Shoes were brown or black, except for eastern troops. Most nobility wore red heals, except the Danes who were banned from doing so.

STOCKINGS AND HOSE

Good units had stockings that contrasted with the coats. Spanish hose were often stripped: red and yellow, blue and brown, and yellow and blue were common. Bavarian foot mostly used bright red stockings. Otherwise, white, tan, light brown, dull red, blue and green was used.

CUFFS, TRIM, AND FACINGS

Cuffs, trim and facings sometimes contrasted with primary coat colors, particularly with elite units. Cuff colors were more prevalent after 1635.

COAT STYLES

At the start of the war, style followed the spanish wambus, with a triangle shape broad at the shoulders and narrow at the waist. The Dutch alternative was the doublet that flared out at the waist and hung below the waistline. Eastern armies (Saxon, Poles, and Swedes) tended to go their on way, with coats that ended mid thigh. The type of coats worn were directly related to whoever the country was allied to or what religion they were, if purse permitted. Also, whoever won last years battles would be copied in next years fashons. Coat length tended to shorten as the war continued, from 1640 on, and reached the waist by the end of the war.

General Comments Regarding All Armies

ELITE UNITS wore Red, Blue, or Green. Red was often used as the coat color for the Queens Regiments. For example, The Queen of Brandenbergs' Regiment wore red coats trimmed in green. Denmark and Englands ' queens also used red coats. Of course red dyes were the cheapest, I just wonder if any Queens took King to task for pfenning pinching.

ARTILLERISTS used dark colors to hide the dirt and powder residue. Black, brown, and dark blue were common. The first units of artillery that were part of an army, as opposed to being contracted, were Swedish. Uniforms were usually not used by artillerists. Medium Artilerists were known to used brown or green to discourage snipers. Perhaps brown or pearl grey for Austrians, and blue for Swedes, other wise make artillerists as irregular as possible.

CAVALRY wore light grey, white, or buff coats either with or instead of 3/4 armor. Cavalry also wore coats the same color as either their national colors or the heraldic colors of the man they served.

CITY MILITIAS Militias wore black, grey and brown mostly, although a good example of miltia dress for Danzig is in the Osprey Polish Infantry book. Miltias often wore very baggy 'shorts' that reached to the knee and then hose. This would be very practical clothing for muddy siege work and if not active in open country. The French and the Poles seem to be the only troops that wore this type of outfit while on campaign. The Spanish, of course, still adhered to the wambus and bloomers with hose. Although this had a differant look, the Spanish outfit had the same advantages and problems as the 'shorts ' of the city militias. These two modes of dress were suitable for troops garrisoning towns or engaged in seige work.

FIELD SIGNS Sashes, ribbons, feathers, etc, were used to identify troops on the battlefield. This expedient was used throughout the war and was based on the Kings' or Regimental commanders' coat of arms, much like livery. Field signs were needed because opposing forces uniforms were similar or identical. (A problem not unknown in the ACW). Also, allied armies would have to agree on common signs. Passwords and battle crys were used to help reduce confusion.

The following list is commonly used field signs:

    BAVARIA. Light blue and white.
    DENMARK. Blue and orange with white feathers. After 1625 the Danes reverted to Oldenberg colors, red and yellow.
    DUTCH. Orange. States troops wore a orange, blue and white cocade.
    IMPERIAL. Red and yellow or red and white.
    FRENCH. White ans red or blue and white. French officiers always wore white sashes.
    SAXONY. Yellow to 1630, often dark green after 1630.
    PALANTINE. Possibly white.
    POLAND. Red and white or straw.
    SWEDEN. Blue, straw, yellow, or green.
    WALLENSTEIN. Green, yellow, or Imperial.
    HESSE. Silver, blue, and red.
    HANOVER. White feather.
    SWISS. Red, blue, and yellow. In French service; white blue and red.

More Uniforms of the 30 Years War


Back to Time Portal Passages Summer 2000 Table of Contents
Back to Time Portal Passages List of Issues
Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List
© Copyright 2000 by Rudy Scott Nelson
This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. Other military history articles and gaming articles are available at http://www.magweb.com