Ancient Korea

Armies of Ancient Korea:
Uniforms Until 1388

by Rudy Scott Nelson


Glossary

I use these terms to identify clothing and equipment in a space saving manner.

Stovepipe.

The traditional Korean stovepipe hat with either a small or wide brim.

Sung.

The pot helmet with a round crown and wide brim often associated with Sung China.

Tang.

The basic helmet with leather or metal over a frame. Similar to a Viking helmet without the nose piece.

T-spire/K-spire.

Officer helmets always had a top spire from which a tassel hung. In most cases the sipre was topped with a Trident (T-spire) but in a few cases it was a knob (K-spire)

T-Spear.

This is a three pointed spear always depicted in paintings. A development which may be the result of the need to push ladders in an area dominated by siege warfare. The dominant spear artifact is still the single blade type of spear point.

Turumagi.

The term used for the outside garment, a surcoat or overcoat. It could be sleeveless

Chogori.

The common garment either as an undershirt or as the main garment. It looks similar to a robe often with wide borders of contrasting colors.

Paji.

The pants whose leg width often denoted class rank or location of home.

Shields and Bodyarmor.

Of all of the paintings and other items studied, I only saw two items where Korean troops were using shields prior to Mongol domination. One was a modern drawing of a 390 Koguryo cavalryman armed with a lance, bow and unusually shaped shield. The other was a contemporary painting of Koryu infantrymen with round shields routing a Jurchin force which may be members of the special Pylomuban strike force). In my opinion, the reason for the lack of shields among Korean infantry is that siege warfare dominated the region. As such shields being cumbersome for the defenders on a wall and since attackers would use pavises made at the siege site from local material, the training and use of shields would not be vital.

The use of body-armor was very common. The style was influenced by the ruling Dynasty in neighboring China. This should not be considered uncommon since in addition to military aid, there would be massive amounts of items left around a city after a failed siege. Generals, officers and elite troops are always shown wearing armor. The Generals and officers often show quilted cloth barded with studs or scale metal armor. Their helmets always include neck flaps made in the same style of armor used in the coat. An interesting note is that in the paintings, virtually all of the officers and generals wore forearm leather strapping characteristic of those worn by archers. Some mounted Generals and shock Cavalry are shown with a high neck guard which is similar in appearance to those worn by Mycenean Greek Chariot riding nobles.

Remembering that most troops were raised and maintained by individual Lords, it is not surprising that the amount of armor worn by retainers varied. Quilted armor was cheaper so was widely used. Muster (local peasants) troops are never shown in armor. While none of the pictures or statues show horse armor, several sources do mention that it was used. As an assumption, I would say that any cavalry would be armored similar to their Chinese or nomadic neighbors. Another item which is similar to their Chinese neighbors is the style of helmets used.

Uniforms

A description of various uniforms based on paintings and scultures which I viewed.

For militia and other levies, the uniforms were daily clothes so tans, white and light gray was very common, especially after the country became heavily influenced by Confucian and Buddhist teachings.The preferred colors AFTER the influence were yellow = royalty, blue and red = nobility and rich families, white (also tan and light gray shades) = peasant, black = all, Many troops were raised and supported by local 'lords' gentry, so uniform colors would vary depending on the preference of the 'lord'.

Koguryo 400 AD. Based on items showing actions of King Kwang Gae-Tae (Kwanggaet'o)

Kyongdang "Flower Youth" (The Koguryo version of Hwarang) are shown in training.

They are equipped as Horse Archers. The ridged caps contained a feather on each side. The Chogori basic color was tan or light gray and had wide colored borders. The trim colors varied among them so may have been a family distinction.

Guard Cavalry are shown with Lance, bow, sword and a strange shaped shield King Kwanggaet'o is shown with a leather helmet w/ iron reinforcing bar and studded neck flaps. The helmet has a T-spire with a red tassel. The Turumagi is leather reinforced with metal studs. He has forearms covered in leather strips. His personal standard was a vertical triangle shaped banner. Colors are diluted so I cannot positively identify the colors.

Uniform data based on the painting of the Koguryo victory over the SUI Chinese at the Salsu River in 612. Cavalry are on Unarmored horses with mainly red horse saddle blankets. Most horses are dark colored except for the king's/ commander's horse which is white.

The General/ King is wearing a red chogori and paji. His armor which covers his upper arms and thighs has a gold or bronze tint which could represent being gilded. It also appears to be scale. The armor has an unique ridged neck protector. He has a red tassel on a flared style helm. A similarly dressed aide or sub-general is beside him. His personal banner is triangular with a yellow background , red border and green centered dragon. Another flag is also triangluar and is mid- blue with green borders. The elite Korean cavalry in the background are wearing mainly a deep yellow chogari with red trim and white paji.

A War Memorial Museum display shows a Koguryo noble cavalryman. He is wearing a red chogori and deep yellow/ gold paji. His armor which covers his upper arms and thighs has a gold or bronze tint which could represent being gilded. It also appears to be scale. The armor has an unique ridged neck protector. He has a red tassel on a European Knight style open faced helm. His horse is unarmored.

The Montvert book "The Army of Tang China" contains a plate with 2 Korean horsemen (Koguryo enemy). The Horse Archer is unarmored and wears a white chogori and paji. His bow case and arrow feathers are also white. His hat is almost a skull cap with two long black feathers protruding from it. The second horsemen is a noble or shock cavalry trooper. The rider is wearing a full armor suit similar to the one described in the above paragraph but with armor over the entire leg. The helmet has a black tassel/ feathers and he is wearing leather forearm protectors rather than archer bindings.His lance has a white pennant. This picture does show a horse with scale armor on the sides and lower neck. The armor is edged in a red cloth border. Also on the back of the horse is a decorated white wind-sock banner which may have shown rank or a family crest design on it.

SILLA 640 AD

Based on items showing actions of General Kim Yu-Shin.

General. Black Lacquer chest plate and helmet neck guard. Gold trimed black laquer helmet w/ horns and T-spire. A red tassel hangs from the T-spire. Forearm 'archer' wraps. Bronze scale armor on the shoulder and thighs. Chogori is mid-blue with red borders/trim.

Horse Archers. The ridged tan caps contained a feather on each side. The Paji was basic tan or light gray. The tan or gray Chogori had wide colored borders. The horse blanket was red.

Spear armed infantry. Brown leather helmet (Tang Style) w/ neck flaps and yellow colored trim. Leather forearm 'archer' wraps. Red-brown Chogori with wide white trim. Gray paji.

Unit Banners. Yellow Triangle flag with red borders. In the distance a subordinate or rival General is shown with a blue tassel on his T-spire helmet.

The following colors may be used for commander's of units and larger formations. In the Silla government specific colors of Chogori were assigned to different levels of officials. Since many of these officials had military responsibilities, it is reasonable to assume that these colored Chogori would be worn by officers and commanders as a sign of rank even while on campaigns. From the lowest to the highest levels, the colors were Yellow, blue, scarlet and purple (Before Confucian influences on clothing colors). Another consideration (Speculation) is that since many of the troops were oath bannermen (pledged service to a specific noble) that there uniform trim may have been the same as their commander's chogori.

SILLA: Reforms of 680

A unique system of uniform facing distinctives is adopted. They are assigned to different Sodang divisions. The following colors are used as uniform trim/coat border colors: green, purple, white, scarlet, yellow, black, cobalt, red and blue

PACKCHE 660 AD

General Ka-beck. Gold scale armor with a red waist sash. A open faced helmet with gold scale neck flaps and a red tassel on a T-spire. Red paji and chogori with white trim. Other pictures show tan paji and chogori with Green trim.

Standard. Yellow Triangle flag with red trim and black writing.

Standard bearer. Wears a white chogori with red trim. Green trimed neck flaps.

Horses. All horse blankets are red. No Horse armor.

Infantry. Tan chogori and light gray or white paji. No colored trim.

The following colors may be used for commander's of units and larger formations. In the Paekche government specific colors of Chogori were assigned to different levels of officials. Since many of these officials had military responsibilities, it is reasonable to assume that these colored Chogori would be worn as a sign of rank even while on campaigns. From the lowest to the highest levels, the colors were Blue, scarlet and purple (Before Confucian influences on clothing colors). ). Another consideration (Speculation) is that since many of the troops were oath bannermen (pledged service to a specific noble) that there uniform trim may have been the same as their commander's chogori

KORYO 1010

Kang (King) Gueran. Gold scale armor. A helmet with yellow trimed green neck flaps and a red tassel on a T-spire. Mid-Blue paji and chogori with red trim. Leather forearm 'archer' straps.

Standard. A Red SQUARE design with white borders and Gold Lettering. Another picture shows a red hanging banner with gold writing.

Guardsmen. Tan chogori or turumagi. Trident spear with a red tassel. Black shoes.

Officer. Tan turumagi. Red turban wrap on the helmets brim.Black shoes

Sources indicate that Koryo by 890 issued crimson or white feathers to horse archers. The horse archers wore white paji and chogori with black trim. Unable to identify the enemy but their uniform consists of:

Infantry. Skull cap type helmet. Brown, tan , light gray mix chogori and paji.

Elite troops or officers?. Red turumagi with studs in cloth and a bright red sash. Red tassel on a K-spire helmet with red studded neck flaps. Tan chogori and paji.

Cavalry. Green turumagi. Green colored K-spire helmet and tan neck flaps with a white tassel. Tan chogori and paji.

KORYO 1380

YI-SONG-GAE. Red Helmet with a T-spire and red scale neck flaps. Unique bronze wings on the side of the helmet. Chogori and Paji are red. Gold/bronze scale shoulder and thigh armor. Other scale armor is red with white trim on the borders. Black feathered arrows.

Standard. Two are shown. Red Triangle and a Yellow Triangle.

Cavalry. Red armor with white trim and white sash. White chogori and paji. White tassel on a K-spire helmet.

Infantry. White chogori with red trim and white paji

A War Memorial display shows three colors of the Guard Units. Based on the straps and ties, I am not sure if these rectangle colors are flown from a pole or more likely they were worn by the soldiers. (This wearing of colors by soldiers is similar to the Chinese practice.)

Haema-gi guard unit. Royal Blue background with a brown running horse in the center and bordered by small yellow and red flowers.

Ungjun-gi guard unit. Red background with natural colored hawk chasing a fleeing bird. They are 8 multi-colored blue-red-yellow-green flower designs on the border.

Sang-gi guard unit. Black background with a centered grey-blue elephant being lead by a soldier in a red/yellow trim hat and blue Chogori. It has eight red-yellow-blue flower designs along the border. Another item in the museum's display shows cavalry bodyarmor. It is of overlapping scale and covers the upper arm and the entire leg. It also contains the unique ridged neck protector. The helmet is an open faced helm with a red tassel on a K-spire. It is in the Koryo section.

Unknown Uniform. Approxmiately 1300s

Lamellar style armor of yellow cloth with small red rectangle metal. Helmet of Blue cloth and neck flaps with a red tassel on a T-spire. White horse. Red triangle banner.

Infantry (Guard ?). Royal-Dark blue Chogori with yellow trim. White paji. Black boots. Long spears with red tassels. Infantry archers. Red arrow feathers.

Cavalry. Black Laquered armor. Helmets with red tassels. Horses mainly brown. Red Horse blankets and horse furnishings including tassels. Cavlary banners include red , yellow and green.

More Ancient Korea


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