From Nick Nascati of Turnersville. NJ 08012: Well, its the week before Thanksgiving, and I figure that by the time this gets into print, it will have been about a year since I first started subscribing to MWAN. Since a significant number of things have changed, I thought that I should send in an update letter. First of all, I continue to enjoy MWAN, and each issue gives me something new to think about, always a good sign. A year ago, I was a firm supporter of plastic figures in 20mm, and 10mm metal figures. Over the past few months, I guess since Historicon in July, I have rediscovered the joys of playing with 25mm (28mm) "Toy soldiers". I had a very successful year as selling goes, and by the end of Historicon, I had managed to sell all of my 10mm armies ( Hi, Mike ! ), as well as all of my plastics. I must explain, that this is not a case of 25mm snobbery, I just reached a point where I decided to stop compromising for the sake of a dollar, and enjoy the hobby. I have to admit though, that I still think that 10mm figures have a real future in the hobby, and I find them more attractive overall than I ever found 15mm. The thing is though, that I've always preferred games at the lower level of organization, so the size of the figures doesn't have a real impact. If you like to play at the level of battalions and brigades though, I really think they are the answer. I've basically reached the point, where I have decided that I am tired of painting up armies, only to turn around and sell them, so I am going to resolutely try to hold onto everything that I now have, and continue to expand.

What am I into now, well, two major projects, about to move into a third. First, is the mid - l9th century, specifically, the Austro -Prussian War of 1866, using Battle Honors and Wargames Foundry. I have been using "Principles of War' rules, which I think are terrific for simulating the problems of 19th century commanders, and allow for actions to be played at the company level, which appeals to me. I'd like to move into the 2nd Schleswig War, if BH decides to produce figures for R. The opponents of the Prussians are sufficiently different from each other, to make collecting all three (i.e. Danes, Austrians and French ), an attractive idea. Also played my first game of "Piquet" recently. I went into it fully prepared not to like it, but came away admittedly impressed. It didn't hurt that I won the game, my Austrian Jagers held off a battalion of Prussians, and once I got past the turn sequence (or non - sequence ), it was pretty smooth. I think that I still prefer Po W though. I'm planning on expanding into some small scale naval warfare in the period, some gunboat actions, using the new range of naval guns and accessories from Richard Houston. Small skirmishes on the Danube, or something along those lines using scratch built ships. Rules, I don't know. I know that Po W has some rules for the use of boats, so with some tinkering, they might work out well.

I am also as you have seen before, hooked on the 25mm WWII figures, having built up a fairly large collection of Germans, British and Russians from Battleground and Battle Honors. I even managed to find a dozen or so scale vehicles for cheap, by carefully searching out flea markets. I have been using my DBA variant rules, as well as "At the Sharp End", both with great success. I am tempted by what I have heard about crossfire, and I understand that Piquet has a WWII era set out, so I may look into those at some point, to raise the level of the games slightly. I never liked the idea though, of a stand of figures occupying a building as a squad. Finally got to see "Cross of Iron" a couple of weeks ago, and I was very impressed, it was a great film. I was surprised to see James Colburn in the lead, I had expected someone more typically Germanic in appearance, like George Peppard or Rutger Hauer.

What I am planning now, is to use the Russians, along with WWI figures from Wargames Foundry, to do the Spanish Civil War in 25mm. This is a conflict that I have studied for the past 12 years, I collect books on it, and maintain an active correspondence on the subject, I even had the opportunity to teach a graduate level course on it for two semesters. Subscribing to Abanderado, and being a member of ALBA (the Abraham Lincoln Brigade Archives), has tipped the balance in favor of the period. Sure, I know that Pat Condray offers a huge range for the period in 20mm, and Peter Pig covers it in ISmm, but I just don't feel like pa nting up another scale, when I have terrain and building already done in 25mm. So, the figures may not be exact, but they will be close enough with a good paint job, and they will satisfy me. At some point, maybe I'll do an article on the project. The rules are up in the air at the moment, any of those that I mentioned above could be made to work.

Well, I think that I have covered just about everytlung, hopefully most of what I am doing now will still exist in a another year, but with me, you never know. Anyway, keep up the great work with MWAN, and I hope that you have a pleasant and toy filled Holiday.

From David Steinberg of Orlando. FL 32803: I can't tell you how much I enjoy the publication. I'm currently working on (very slowly) a Napoleonic Ottoman army for use with a set of rules modified from Richard Borg's Command and Colors. In addition I'm (also very slowly) working on WWII Germans and Russians for some East Front mayhem. There are various other thing occupying space on the painting table as well ... (AIM 10mm ECW 25mm FIW and Cowboys, etc ... ) Too many interesting periods and too lime time. In any case, I hope you are doing well and thanks once again for MWAN. Take care!

From: Prisco Hernandes of Madison, WI 53704 Hello Hal! This letter is long overdue. I have been an avid reader of MWAN for over three years and have considered myself unofficially a MWANER. However, as is the nature of things I have decided to formalize this relationship. (Enclosed is a check for my subscription to MWAN.) I picked up issues 66, 69 and 70 at a local fantasy game shop where they were being sold for a dollar a piece amongst the outdated stuff. I have been hooked ever since. I have followed your trials and tribulations with painting and your struggles with producing MWAN. The improvement in the quality of presentation has been fantastic! But what I mostly enjoy is the sheer fun and spirit of camaraderie among fellow MWANERS. The description of other people's projects, the rules sets (I am a fan of Brother Glidden), the knowledge that I am not the only mad thirty-something out there painting and playing with toy soldiers. I have been gaming with miniatures for about six years. (Not counting the many epic battles of my childhood with plastic soldiers.) Hal, for some strange reason I remember that as a child I used to think that playing with soldiers was so much fun that I would never give it up. Strange isn't it? My first attempts at painting as an adult were with plastic WWII HO figures and ESCI Romans. I was excited by how they looked but disappointed because they flaked so easily. I soon ordered three DBA armies in 15 mm (Vikings, Saxons, and Normans) they were so little, but they painted up so nicely and the paint stayed! I was in heaven. Soon I was ordering more. Romans, Barbarians, Carthaginians, Medievals. I could not believe that so many people actually manufactured figures for nearly all the periods of history. And then there was DBA. A simple set of rules, small armies that could be painted up in a short time, perfect for solo play. I spent hours browsing the army lists (180 armies). Well -I would think- a couple more figures and I'll have another army! I bought a copy of TACTICA.

Incredible! Pictures of hundreds of figures, in 25 mm, gloriously painted! Was this even possible? I have never built a TACTICA army but have always been attracted to it. However, Arty Conliffe came to the rescue with ARMATI. Here was a set which combined the ease and playability of DBA with more manageable armies (intro scale) and much more realistic tactical results. Needless to say I have several ARMATI armies, some of which will expand to epic scale. And then there is OLD GLORY. Hal, I know you are also an avid OLD GLORY fan. Suffice it to say that this company made me take the plunge into 25 mm. My first pack was Viking raiders. Simply magnificent! As with most gamers I am attempting to control the madness. I have decided to do some periods and to avoid others (at least for the moment). These are my periods: 1) In 25 mm Dark Ages (Vikings, Saxons, Normans and some Welsh); El Cid (Spanish vs. Moors); Late Medieval 100 Years' War; French and Indian War; Wild West (Southwestern scenarios with Apaches, U.S. Hoops, Mexicans and gunfighters). 2) 15 mm Various ARMATI ancient, medieval, and early renaissance armies. (My favorites are early renaissance Spanish, and their enemies the French and Granadan Moors.) 15 mm Spanish and Turkish galleys for Lepanto; two small armies for the American Civil War, and 15 mm WWII (G.I.s and Germans for Europe 1944). My figures are mostly OLD GLORY with many ancient medieval and renaissance ESSEX and a sprinkling of MUSEUM, MINIFIGS, ALLIANCE, SOLDIERS AND SWORDS and others. My two favorites are OLD GLORY and ESSEX. I consider myself a pretty good, meticulous painter, and like you, planning armies and painting is probably what I most enjoy about the hobby. For this reason, as well as the obvious monetary restrictions, most of my periods are far from being complete. Could I finish before turning fifty? (That gives me thirteen years.) Well, if I do there is always the Napoleonic Black Hole which beckons. Incidentally, I recently fell prey to the lure of the tricorne. Yes, OLD GLORY 15 mm Austrians for the Seven Year's War! I know very little about the period but the tactical interplay is fascinating (Yes, the old rock, scissors, and paper deal.) checked out Christopher Duffy's The Army Maria Theresa, ordered the three Osprey books on the Austrian Army of 1740-80, and at this moment am looking at six battalions o painted, based and flocked Austrian fusiliers, a considerable train of artillery, and three regiments of proud but half-painted, based and unflocked Austrian cuirassiers! Well Hal, enough for starters. Please accept me as a MWANER in good standing. I look forward to the next issue and hopefully will find the time to send in a couple of articles describing my projects and one or two simple sets of rules I am working at. Remember: "The English glossies please the eye but MWAN touches the heart." Best regards to you and all fellow MWANERS!

From Jim Getz of Columbus, Ohio 43220: I have enclosed an article for MWAN that I hope you and the readers will find of interest. Life has been very busy and I seem to keep agreeing to do things and as a result my writing time is getting reduced even more than usual. I have however been able to dedicate more time to painting and playing than I have in many years and that is to the good.

As you will find from the article, I have decided to follow in your footsteps, at least for a while. Bob Jones asked me to be the edito of the Piquet Dispatch, a quarterly newslette for Piquet players, and I thought it might be fun. I doubt that I will last as long as you, but I hope to successfully imitate some of your spirit of fairness and enjoyment of the hobby, you have set a high standard over the years!

You will be happy to hear that I am moving ahead quite rapidly with my collection of unpainted as well as primed, but unpainted figures! I have managed to move into several new periods of late including the Sudan. But l am once again putting brush to casting and starting to actually move some from the pipeline to the gaming table. Unfortunately I am to make frequent trips to the hobby shop or craft store as I find yet another bottle of paint dried-up or that I am out of some absolutely necessary supply. Still and all it is fun.

I have been experimenting with making hills out of high density foam like that used in seat cushions. So far it is proving very satisfactory. The cost is low (a 1" thick piece that is 24" by 90" sells here for a little over $17.00) and the look is quite good. These are all "plopons" as Duke calls them, and not scene-squares as he produces. They are easy to cut and sculpt with an X-acto knife and then I paint them with acrylic wall paints and accent with Testors' spray paints (unlike some foam, the spray doesn't seem to bother this stuff), and Woodlands Scenics turf. So far I have been using 1" and 2" foam, but you can get up to 5" l got the idea from some guys out in the Kansas City area. My next project is to figure out a way of making good looking roads to go with the great contours!!

l have to tell you that I haven't been so excited about a gaming concept in a long, long time as Bob's Piquet. It has a world of possibilities in it [ am doing a weird science combination of Piquet and Chef de bataillon we are starting to call Chef de Piquet that is very simple and very fun - also right now very dynamic in that it changes after every playing! Trip Alford and I are also working on a grand tactical version. The fact that the basic system can be used across multiple periods is also a great benefit to me - assuming of course I can get more of those unpainted troops moved to the gaming table! Speaking of which I have to meet my nightly quota so I will run along.

From Jim Davis of Rowlett, TX 75088-2516: I have a couple of suggestions on the paint brush life issue. I have noticed that they don't seem to last as long as they used to also. In my case, partly, I am probably using a cheaper brush, due to increases in prices. I clean mine with water rinse every couple of figures, and with brush cleaner between colors ( BJ's the Master brush cleaner) I also clean with alcohol followed by water and brush cleaner about once a week. This seems to help. I have found a clogged brush can be cleaned with alcohol (rubbing, or in bad cases denatured) and saved. I have been using Testers and Robert Simmons brushes lately. Incidentally, as I took watercolor classes rather than oil, I tend to use my brushes shaped like chisels rather than pointed. Works for me.

As a hint to others painting wheels, (I have just done 24 chariots, finally finishing an Egyptian Army I bought 15 years ago). I clean them up, then thread then on a chenille, those pipe cleaner like items in the ladies hobby shops. You can then spray prime, and spray paint and they stay in place. You can even detail them on the chenille, then cut them off with a wire cutter. The chenille gets to stiff to slide them off. I have been playing WW2 in 20mm since the early 1 960's. having started wargarning in the service with Tractics Two. For the last seven years I have been using Command Decision, but lately I have been branching out and trying Clash of Armor, Great Battles (Canadians) and now Spear Head. I haven't played any of them enough to make a real review, but would like to make a few comments on great Battles (GB)and Spear Head (SH).

I had to give in and use 5mm for GB, it just looked to goofy with HO. Other than that, after three games I am enthusiastic. I played two of the Italian scenarios. At first the Company sized stands were strange, as was keeping formation. You soon got into it and the feel was right, and the results believable. It is a fun game. There are a few questions I have as to some of the wording, and some unclear instructions, but all in all I would go buy the rules again. If nothing else, as with the other Canadian Wargamers rules I have bought, you get your moneys worth in background and scenario information.

I have just finished my first go with SH. I made a ruler 150% of normal and used HO. It looked OK, but 200% might be better. And unlike Clash of An-nor, the Russian infantry Bttn is bigger than in CD. I may have some spare figures I can paint up, or I may stick with CD lists. The game was a Russian Inf Reg., with a Co. of armor in support, attacking a dug in German Bttn. The Russians had a Bttn. of 122mm fining a pre-planned barrage. They needed more. And it was pretty much a straight advance over country with little cover. A lot of suppressed Russian platoons on the second turn as small arm range was reached. About half were recovered for the next turn, and a try made at continuing the attack. Troop loses brought on morale checks for the Russians, and then two Bttn were gone, and one was withdrawing. But they knocked out three Germans platoons. A second attack might do better, and there are lots of Russians. This was a very small game for SH, and only took an hour. I think for the scale they are trying to simulate, is a good set. I tried this twice more, increasing the Russian artillery support to include on call artillery, and the armor to two Co. With better tactics to concentrate the attack this improved their performance. They reached their first objective, and did more damage than before to the Germans.

I was interested in the comments about the perfect spear/ pike in the last issue. I'm not sure this is the perfect material, but I like it. I bought a plastic whisk broom, and a floor broom. The plastic "hair" on the whisk is white and about I mm thick. The broom material is tan and about 1/16 inch thick. to both cases it is stiff, stays straight, and springs back when bent. It glues with white glue, and takes paint. I have used a hot nail head and hot pliers to flatten the ends for spear heads. And of course it is fairly cheap. The broom was $6.00, and has 1500 to 2000 hairs each 31/2 inches long. At present I am trying to make up some 2'x2' terrain squares for the Normandy hedgerow fighting. It is experimental, as I try different techniques as I go along. I am using green pot scrubs for the hedge tops, and have tried 1/4 round wood and cut to shape rigid foam for the hedge bottoms. The foam seems better. Roads are surfaced with wall board mud, with brown paint mixed in so I don't have to worry about chips.

The fields are broken up by smaller hedges, and stone fences. I have tried hand painting and flocking the fields, and spray painting, then covering with white glue and flocking. Spray is much quicker. I have tried topcoats of satin clear, gloss clear, both war-mart, Testors dulcoat, and Krylon clear. The gloss and satin are too shiny. Testers looks good, but is expensive. The Krylon has only a little gloss, and I know it is tough, as I use it on my figures. I am using left over ceiling tiles and "blue board" as the bases. For those who haven't used it, blue board is a high density foam. It cuts cleaner than expanded poly sheets, is stronger, and just as cheap. We bought a sheet originally make a mounting board for my daughter's science project, and I have several 2' pieces left over.

From Michael Reese of Sterling Heights. MI48313: MWAN September/October 1997. You asked where to get 15mm standing horses. Ulster Imports Ltd. Box 1748, Champaign, IL 61824 carried (this address is old) YELLOW RIBBON 15mm figures, which are for the Western Indian Wars. Their 01017 is a package of cavalry dismounts. A good 10 horses and several horse holders, if I remember correctly. Figures are nicely done. You should be able to use the horses with only minor if any changes.

Page 33. US Armored Infantry Company. The exact organization is (source is George Fortes U.S. Army Handbook 1939-1945 page 66): supply elements are removed- Coy HQ: HQ Section 1x jeep, 1xM3 halftrack, 1xCC. 3xRifle Platoons of Five squads each: 3xRifle Squads in 3 M3 halftracks 1xLMG Squad (2x30 cat 124G) in 1 M3 halftrack 1x60mm Mortar Squad in 1 M3 halfback. 1xAT Platoon: 3xM3 Halftracks, 3x57mm towed antitank guns, M2 Heavy machineguns. The Coy HQ halftrack, the LMG Squad halftrack, and the antitank platoon's halftracks carried the M2 .50 cal. Heavy AA machine gem. The other tracks carried a .30 cal LMG. The Al halftrack had the "pulpit" mount, otherwise they were on pintels or a sliding motmt on the inside ofthe halftrack. Apparently the platoon HQ was co-located in one of the platoon halfbacks, probably one of the rifle squad halfbacks. Every halftrack had a bazooka, so each rifle squad and each gun crew had one available. This should up the AT factor of the annored infantry over the standard infantry company, which had 3 bazookas in the weapons platoon. The armored company had 9-12 bazookas compared to the infantry company. The comment regarding the antitank platoon is correct. The guns were "lost" and a fourth squad added to each platoon. On the down side, losses meant what this actually did was probably keep the companies closer to their 3 squads per platoon paper strength.

One main difference in US armored infantry and the Germans, when they had halftracks. That was the Germans would fight from theirs. The US infantry would dismount from their halfbacks and either attack on foot or ride on the tanks. This may have been doctrine - most likely was - but on the other hand the German halftracks had better frontal armor protection then the US, and although they are called halftracks, the German vehicle was closer to full tracked. On the other hand, the M3 had front wheel drive and the 251/1 didn't. Sources I have read both say both halftracks had better performance then the other.

Spearhead. I have been using these rules rather than CDII. I think they are better in several aspects. First, less vehicles since they drop out an entire level of command (company). Second, their command rules better reflect the problems of command. I have never been "restricted" by CDII command rules, even as Russian. Can't say the same for Spearhead. Third. They are faster to play and since I always used the cm scale in CDII, made for that scale. Problems. The major one I found is when fighting on the Russian front. You have to be careful that when you use Russians that the scenario requires all of the Russians to move to attack a German position. In a meeting engagement, which was a favorite for WRG 1925-50, the Soviets are not only in a severe tactical disadvantage because it is so hard to change their orders, but you have the problem of a player or players running Russians who moves to an objective, and then ends up stuck on it and watching the rest of the battle without being able to move or shoot because the command roll either can't be made, or if made is needed elsewhere. I use British/US vs. German at the Conventions to reduce that problem. I am going to run another Russian front game - probably at MICHICON. However, it will be mostly infantry attacking a German held position so l shouldn't have the problem of a player not doing anything.

Page 79. Painting the drab, dim and dirty figures for 20th Century war. I have done quite a few 15mm and 28mm figures and have found a way to churn them out, both troops and vehicles, fast but looking good. Fred Bultman suggested this method and it has worked great. on page 147 the "Black Undercoat Technique" is mentioned. This technique is what I use, but add one step. After spraying the figures black, I first dry brush them (quickly) with white paint to lighten the figures so the painted portion isn't so dark. When finished a very light touch of white dry brushed (no white paint comes off the brush on a piece of plastic)paint will also lighten the figures nicely.

You need a large, square brush (#3?), a small square brush, and one brush fine enough for detail. Art stores have excellent ones. You need paint. I use Polly-S paint, but not much. I find the craft stores sell acrylic hobby paints in a variety of colors - such as medium and dark forest green- to include very good metallics, and a good white and black. They can be used straight from the squeeze bottles for drybrushing, they are a little thick, or thinned with water (25% water to paint) for better coverage. I haven't tried to air brush them (I have air brushed turret and side skirts on GHQ 1/285 Mark IV/H with the old Humbrel enamels) although Polly-S, thinned, can be used in an air brush (only on undercoated plastic or metal). You need to go to the local hardware or car parts store and purchase the spray black undercoat paint advertized as sandable. This is enamel. Mount the figures or assemble the model. If it has rubber/pliLstic tracks - a vehicle kit - put them on later. If the tracks are part of the vehicle - 15mm Quality caste or a 1/285 model or the plastic track you glue together - then put the tracks or wheels on and undercoat them as well. I place about 40-50 figures or 3- 5 vehicles on a piece of flat wood and spray them upright first. Let dry at least 30 minutes. Then you can tilt them onto their backs or place the vehicles upside down and the unpainted areas will be easy to spot against the black. Spray the front. Let dry. Flip. Spray the back. Same for the vehicles. Make sure you get the sides of the vehicle behind the tracks. With figures: Once dry 24 hours you use the hobby white paint. Squeeze some on to a pallet - the Styrofoam from a grocer's meat packages. washed in the dishwasher are perfect for acrylic paints. Enamel and glue melts them. Dab the end of your brush in the paint and then run it on the Styrofoam until you get almost no paint. Drybrush your figure front and back. You don't want paint thin enough, or so much that it gets into the depressions of the model. Just dry brush the figure so the flat and protruding surfaces are white. This will really pop up the detail. Switch to your basic color for the uniform and dry brush this over the white (again - do about 10 figures at a time)., Charles Sharp had good advice on the colors. Now paint the flesh with a flesh colored paint, then shirt, then coat and pants, boots, equipment belt, weapons. I use a medium brown for the wood on the weapons, and black as the basic color for the metal. A touch of gunmetal on the barrel or lightly drybrushed over a solid black gun (like a MP38 which doesn't have any wood on it) pops that color out. Dark grey drybrushed over any black, especially uniform or boots, is an absolute necessity in order to make the black look good. You paint from the skin out, which lets you paint over your mistakes. Finally, washes. I use a bit of red brown in water and stirred for a brown wash. This goes over any flesh. You can also use it on desert uniforms. A black wash goes over everything. When the wash is dry a very light touch dry brush of either white, off-white, or a very light grey (real light with no paint visible on your brush - just visible when you run it over a black surface) goes on the entire model. This is a once over brush that takes only a few seconds per figure. It will lighten the figure considerably. Finally, spray a protective coat of dullcote over it. I also paint the base either black or green. I repaint the top using a 1-1-1 ratio of water, white glue, and the color of paint you want to use (black or green, light brown desert) and then put the figure in a box, standing up, of fine commercial 'grass'. l use green for most figures, but if a desert figure l use brown or fine sand. The base is finished before the final dullcote.

I will be running a SF game at the SF convention at Oakland U. on the 15 Nov and the same game at WINTERCON in January 98. MICHICON will be another SH eastern front game most likely. I am trying to set-up an infants game depicting a series of major Soviet attacks against the German lines in the Saporoshje Bridgehead near Mowa Alexandra Sep 20-26, 1943. This was an area in Southem Russia just north of the Crimea where the Germans held a large Soviet dam and power facility for about two months. A series of major attacks took place in September and then another series in October.

From Bill Warwick of Prescott Valley, AZ 86314-6300: Got MWAN #89 the other day and have finished it already! Don't you think you could expand the contents to say, 900 or so pages so I can finish a little closer to the arrival of the next issue? I'll continue to make my one or two page contribution(s) every six months or so! My way of saying job well done! MWAN #89 was very informative and entertaining. Enjoyed Nick Nacati's WWII skirmish contributions very much. However, shame on him for tempting me with a new scale in a period that I have devoted much in time and money to micro-scale models, terrain, etc. And while I m on that subject, my wife and kids got me a few packages of GHQ Terrain Maker for my birthday. One pack was the 1/4" hexes, used for gullies, streams, rivers, etc. Years ago in a TAG-NEWS newsletter, there was an article on using these to construct trench systems. Great idea but a bit shallow as the article and example had just one trench on one hex. But using the same principles as road/gully/stream hexes exiting and entering hexes at a common point an entire trench system can be constructed. So this is what I've been up to for the last few days. The pieces came out fantastic! I put in a mortar pit and a few dug in "log" bunkers, and tree stumps from th cut down trees to build the bunkers and clear firing lanes. One of the things I did that gave a very real appearance was after the basic terraining was dry, I used an old pump type spray bottle and sprayed a water with two drops of dish-washing liquid, on the trench/dugout portions of the hex. Then, with watered down white glue, about 50/50, applied to the edges of the trench, added a built up edge to simulate the discarded soil. This was done using Woodland Scenics "Earth, Turf', which was also applied to the floors and walls of the trenches. This sounds like a lot of work but its not bad when the results are considered. I can't tell you how well these look. especially when incorporated into an entire terrain set up. Most definately worth the effort. My son and I had our first Medieval battle last week. We were getting used to the rules and having a lot of fun doing it. He was picking up the rules very quickly and understanding the tactics without too much effort on my part. We had a great time and will continue to game and build our armies for this era. I'm hoping to expose him to Napoleonics next. My armies for that period are nowhere near done yet but are at least moving toward gaming capability (at a snail's pace) and not at a standstill. AIM 10mm from Roger Dospil at DIVISION AFTER DIVISION has released Napoleonic cavalry in the form of French Dragoons and command and Cuirassiers and command. They are great. The folks at AIM keep putting out very nice castings, and the line has been expanding at a very quick pace. I haven't head anything from Roger yet, but would assume that artillery models should be coming soon, I hope so anyway!

I've been hitting the library a lot lately, absorbing all I can find on Napoleonic warfare in the Peninsula. Unfortunately, I'm having a hard time trying to find anything covering French allies in Spain. I'm looking for uniform, tactical organization, troop quality and quantity information. Can you reocmmend something that covers this? Funds are limited so I'm looking to borrow instead of buy.

I am preparing to participate in a PBM campaign being run by Chris Hahn. It's Napoleonic era ( 1807) but using fictions countries. Looks like a lot of fun. Perhaps I'll prepare an article on my participation in the affair.

I see that GHQ has jumped headlong into Napoleonics and are now offering a new 10mm line. I rushed off a small order for WWII tanks (one can never have enough micro-armor, you know) so I could get a few samples, which are free with an order. I have not see them yet, but I'm sure they will be exquisite if they are up to GHQ's usual modeling standards. I just hope they will fit with my existing 10mm Napoleonics by AIM. I hope to get a few of these as soon as I get the catalog.

I have been pretty busy with two craftsman kits that I'm building for display for a railroad specialty shop though I did squeeze in a small WWII eastern front "take and hold the crossroads so we can get the heck out of here" type of scenario based on the evacuation efforts of units in the Demyansk pocket. I've been doing a lot of reading lately and have been through some interesting information. I was going through the TIME WWII D-Day book and came across some great photos of bunkers, MG, AT gun and artillery emplacements that were painted to look like cottages, stores and chateaus. One even had a window painted on the side with a woman leaning on the sill looking out. Pretty cool, uh! Some of them were in the middle of built up areas with houses and shops on each side of them. What a nasty surprise that would be for a small recon element rolling into a town. Give you any ideas?

From James Womer of Philadelphia. PA 19130-3930:. After looking at a number of gaming magazines, I decided to subscribe to MWAN for the following reasons: (1) You present a great deal of information consistently. (2) MWAN has a number of contributors writing intelligently about interesting topics. Some of these good people are even addressing problems in the hobby that have vexed me and caused me no little concern - problem personalities, as well as conflict and competition within groups. (3) My recent discovery that old gaming magazines may be sold to some people at the flea market in a wargames convention. We have to keep our sense of humor. (4) Your decision to print Mr. Robert Trimble's letter in MWAN #88. (5) Your well considered response to Mr. Trimble. In addition to the fact that we are both about the same age - I turn 50 next year. I regret missing the article on "Remember to Laugh". It is one of my firmly held, passionately defended, personal prejucticed convictions that many of the problems we are encountering today in the hobby or group miniatures wargaming in terms of problem personalities, conflict and' competition without groups are simply the result of far too many people who really ought to know much better taking the whole bloody hobby too damn seriously. If I limit my gaming today, it's not simply because I have discovered that life has a lot more to offer besides wargames, but because I've been confronted by some grim evidence that an excess of gaming may at least be partially responsible for the demise this decade or two of my wargaming friends. Despite that, I defend the play or games within limits an in moderation as a part of a healthy life style. (Editor's Note: Thanks, James, for your thoughts; re the 'problems " we encounter in the hobby I see them as having dramatically decreased from some twenty years ago, at least in my experience(s). It may just be the caliber of individuals who are members of MWAN which is disguising it, I 'm not sure. I just don't see a; many people whose attitudes and behaviors cause the types of problems I recall running into previously Another fact is that no matter what activity one is involved in, one is going to encounter people who 's values sit system is drastically different from ours, and quite far Lathe "norm ".)

From Adam Hayes of Quinnesee, Mich 49876: Thanks for the WHITE DWARF magazines, Uncle Harold. I "specially enjoyed the parts with the WARHAMMER game in it. I recently got into the game BATTLETECH. It's a wargame that's based in the future. You buy figures and play on a board setup on hexes about one inch wide. It's very complex and hard to explain. The main machines of battle in this game are mechs, which are essentially 30 foot tall walking battle-stations ranging anywhere from 30 to 100 tons. Then there are infantry, vehicles hovercraft, planes and naval units. It's pretty fun! (Editor's Note. Thanks for your letter, Adam; glad you enjoy the magazines)

From Henry Thomson of Gladstone, OR 97027-2454: Our Portland bargaining club is playing Andy's SPEARHEAD WWII rules: they are very quick and enjoyable to play. From Steve Nazuka of Eastpoint. MI 48021: Saw in MWAN #89 an article about Vietnam era miniature rules where the author asked why no Americans ever wrote a set. I have a copy of GIAC MY published in 1972. It had a complicated "action per turn" system; a long selection of weapons and sketches of firebases and OP/LP's. I used 20mm (Stan Johansen, I think), Minis (I still have them) that had US Special Forces, NVA, Viet Cong, Montanyards, USMC with flak vests and Russian airborne as well as Rangers with Boonie hats. They fit really well with Airfix and Matchbox 1/72 scale figures. Another rule system was RECON although more role play it was designed for use with Minis and adapted very easily.

From Paul Trapani of Poplarville, MS 39470: Thanks to all who wrote in to MWAN about painting plastics. The articles helped me a great deal. I bought some 1/72 scale plastic WWII US infantry. Let me say that they painted up very well. Let me tell you how it went. After trimming and washing with dish detergent, I let the figures dry really good. I bought some EPOXY ENAMEL SPRAY PAINT FLAT BLACK. This type of paint works very good and is a durable prime. My method of dry brushing is after I dip my brush into the color, I blot it on a piece of cardboard then work the brush back and forth lightly on the figure. This gets all around except the cracks. Then I do the flesh and details, etc. I experimented with the Epoxy Enamel on a 54mm plastic ACW figure first. I purposly bent the gun back and it did not crack the paint. After I spray with dull coat or a matte spray. All this makes for a sturdy painted plastic figure. Mounted on pennies they almost feel like lead. Thanks again for all the articles in MWAN, if I make anymore discoveries, I will be sure to write again!

From Richard Borczak of Coppell. TX 75019-5702: It is interesting to look back into some of the older wargaming magazines to see how far we have come with rules, new figures especially, and scenery. I believe that MWAN, primarily, is g to these changes. We went from simplified rules, to the very detailed rules, and I think we are going back to the simplified rules. I especially like the new Piquet system of rules, especially for the Ancient period, followed by DBM and Armati.

From David Barnes of Briarlands. N. Connel. by Oban. Argyll. PA37 1RD. UK: I have just lost the battle of Chatanooga 1863 again! I was Baxton Bragg. It was a two player game as an old colleague of mine was up here for a few days, Alasdair Jamison. Lookout Mountain, which featured so largely in the battle, was constructed of the six volumes of Churchill's HISTORY OF WWII, THE ASCENT OF MAN by Prof. Bronowski and THE RISE AND FALL OF THE THIRD REICH - Rise and Ascent!! The books were covered in green polystyrene tiles and the whole edifice looked quite good. I might write up the battle shortly and sent it to you. In order to make up the numbers of units required some Boers (Staddens) masquaeraded as CSA as did a couple of units painted up for the Risorgimento. These were designed by the late Steve Hazzlewood and Trevor Dixon.

From Greg Seefeldt of Rapid City. SD 57702: So far my search for historical gamers has not proven fruitful. I lay that to the fact that I have entered in a career change so my ability to meet gamers is limited at this time. Also, I am new to this area. If you do a list of gainers, feel free to use my name and address. MWAN is a double joy in that it keeps me in touch with the greater gaming community while I build or contact the local one. Plus the ideas are terrific as well as following what fellow gamers do to build their game periods as I witness your own TYW and others.

From Terry Bnggs Liverpool NY 13088: I was wondering if you know anything about molds and handcasting. In particular, how one goes about making a two piece mold. Is there a book you could perhaps recommend? Also, what are the requirements or parameters needed for the photos on the front and rear covers? Type of film needed, negatives, etc. I'd like to take some shots of my 15mm Samurai army and terrain for your consideration for cover photos. It's based ot WRG 7th edition. As primarily a cmpetitive ancients player, I've won only one tournament though my samurai have won six best painted army awards and five best terrain awards. If you can't do good, then look good! (Editor's Note: Terry; thanks for letter; re photos, any good quality color photos will do. Don 't need anything fancy as I wouldn't know what to do with it anyway! Would like to see some articles from you re painting and terrain construction! Re mold making; it's been years since I made any. When I did my 25mm Zulu War and 25mm Sudan, I cast lots of natives from two piece molds. It was a lot of work though it was fun to see the figures popping oft the assembly line! Duality was variable but just wouldn't approach what is available nowadays. Can someone help Terry out with this project.?)

From John Leahy of Cincinnati. OH 45240-3100: I've been gaming somewhat regularly and plan on attending this year's HISTRICON. I've mostly finished my AWI 20mm's for VOLLEY AND BAYONET. We played a few games so far and are pleased with the outcome. I also have been working on my SYW 6mm (ROS & HEROICS). I purchased them from Roger Dospil at a local HMGS Con in Dayton, Ohio. He's such a good guy to deal with! Other projects include Franco-Austrian, Franco- Prussian, Austro-Prussian, Russo Turkish, Mexican-American and Spanish-American Wars in 15mm (using Rank & File and Frei- Korp figures). Bill Harvey and I have used the rules REPUBLIC AND EMPIRE for most of these wars, but are planning on trying VOLLEY AND BAYONET. I really need to finish up my 6mrn Napoleonics (Adler, Heroic & ROS and IRREGULAR) figures. So far we've got enough done to do battles in the Peninsula. We use VOLLEY AND BAYONET which I've modified. I try to use OH's Tom George Nafziger (they are great!) Whenever possible. I've painted and based about 1500 figures for ACW ( I Orurn) and use, of course, VOLLEY & BAYONET. Around here though, most guys play JOHNNY REB and FIRE AND FURY (both good sets) so it is rare that my boys see action. I will celebrate my 20th year of gaming this year. I started in 1977 at age 15 playing Tolkein fantasy battles and soon became interested in 20mm Napoleonics (which I still own). It's been great. My wife even helps me paint figures and occasionally games with me also. She actually painted my 700 figure (15rnrn) Crimean Russian Army! Although I do play store bought rules, I'll bet I've got 30-40 sets that are homegrown. I find that I write my rules to give me a particular feel for an era and they are usually on the simple side. I've written a campaign set along with tactical rules for Aztecs and Conquistadors. I just haven't gotten to try them yet. Any thoughts on a good set of rules for ancients? I've tried LEGION, TACTICA, DBM, ARMATI and recently purchased MIGHT OF ARMS. I just don't really get a feel for this period, or at least my perception of it, with any of these sets. I jsut have way too many 15rnrn's and Am figures painted not to use. It's great to be receiving MWAN again! You always seem to say the things that everyone else thinks or feels about our magnificent hobby! (Editor's Note: Thanks, John, for your kind words. I really enjoy reading letters such as yours because of the enthusiasm it displays./)

From Hal Thomas of PO Box 437, Oxford. FL 34484: The new PIQUET rules are excellent. They provide some of the most fun of any rules I can remember in the 30 plus years I've been darning. They provide a "real life" excitement' a "you are there" feeling most rules can't provide. So far I've gotten the Napoleonic (1790-1820), Cartouche (1730- 1790), and Colonial (1850-1914) and am awaiting the Ancients and the Medieval to Early Renaissance sets. All three of the sets I've gamed have all provided great Gaines; the wargarnes are so good you can remember games you have played long ago and particularly tense actions from that garne. How many garners cna recall anything about the wargames they fought two months ago. My last ten games have been Colonial, Afghans Vs British. After my first game with them I set off for a bunch of Afghans; really nice WARGAMES FOUNDRY figures and books and terrain from various dealers. Probably most garners who try one period set will have been drawn into others, just like I was!

From Jim French of Torrance, CA 90503: Purchased MWAN #89 at Brookhurst Hobbies and was pleased to find you had printed my letter on Remeasuring. I also noted that Craig Martelle, a learned Leatherneck, wrote a brief, but excellent article on the subject as well. To perhaps put paid to the problem of premeasuring, it might best be suggested that if the troops you are commanding Ont. He table have the technology to premeasure, or to prerange, or to have indirect artillery fire on call, then it should be premitted in the garne. If your troops do not have that capability, then you should not be permitted to use anything but a good SWAG. I also noticed that you are interested in some unusual periods of history to wargarne. I have been doing a bit of research on a what-if scenario - the Russians vs the US - but wait! Before anyone says not another NATO-Warsaw Pact game, this skirmish takes place in 1825 at Ft. Ross in northern California. The date is elastic by about five years either way. I bought several Russian buildings from Scenic Effects and another source whose name escapes me. Although they are designed for European Russia from Napoleon to WWII,Russian Colonists would most likely construct buildings in the style of their homeland, as did the English, Swedes and other colonists in the New World. This got me started. Some basic delving in the library revealed that when Johann Sutter bought out the Russian holdings, he got 59 buildings, a vast herd of farm animals, and all the fixtures of the fort including its arsenal, the commander's wife's conservatory (we would now call it a greenhouse), and the brig Constantine. This would indicate a sizeable force at the post. The Russians, by the way, were transported north to their post at Sitka. Now I need to describe what figures to use. Napoleonics would probably be the most suitable for the early end of the time frame. Although I realize it is heresy to do so, I must confess that I have no Napoloenic figures and honestly do not care for the period. I can give no real reason for this, it is just a quirk in my style. As far as scale goes, I should think that about 250-300 troops and a proportionate number of guns would suffice for a skirmish of Russians vs a Yankee Marine and Bluejacket landing force supported by the guns of the US frigates Constitution and Constellation.

From Robert Haworth of Cheverly. MD 20785: Just recently, a retired Army LTC who reads MWAN sent me several 1968 vintage Army field manuals and "lessons learned" publications in response to my request for research materials in support of my forthcoming "Gainers' Guide to Infantry Tactics in Vietnam". It is only in the pages of a gamer-friendly magazine such as MWAN that things like this are possible. Thanks for being there for our community of gainers. (Editor's Note: Glad you obtained the info you needed, Robert; I am continually amazed as to what nice things MWANers will do for each other. Thanks for letting me Cowl)

From Frank Puleo of Tampa. FL 33614: As a recent transplant from Chicago to Tampa, Florida, I was somewhat concerned about the gaming environment here. Being used to Little Wars Rock Con, Gen Con, ENQ, etc.. I didn't know what to expect. I am happy to report that after joining HMGS SOUTH, one of the newest chapters, and meeting it's organizers, I have discovered the hobby is alive and well. They recently held HURRICON, their flagship convention. Although I confess I had to downscale my mindset a bit, I have to admit I was very pleased. It was a well organized and run convention. The facility was quite adequate for the size of the con. The gaming space provided was good and although there were not a lot of dealers, the variety was acceptable. They did a good job on the Preliminary Events Listing and pre- registration for games, of which there was a good variety spanning the ages. Scheduling was done on a "slot" basis with three slots/day and mroe than enough time for setup and take down. I ran a game and had no problem at all. Even the creature comforts and life support systems (i.e., restrooms, food/beverages) were all readily available. All in all, it was a fine convention and has a lot of potential. I encourage any garners traveling in this part of the world this time next year to stop in and check it out. Also, I understand you will be the guest at RECON, their spring event. I look forward to seeing you again there if not before as I am giving some Nought to attending LITTLE WARS '98, but Here is just something about Chicago in March...if you get my drift! (Editor's Note: Will be good to see you again, Frank; am looking forward to

The Heliograph
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