Yes, among my other obsessions, I've jumped on the bandwagon for 25mm WWII skirmish games. The fact that "moderns" always had to be in HO scale, has been one of my pet peeves for long time. Model Railroad stuff aside, there are already a couple at good ranges in 25mm that cover the WWI era, and even the Russo - Japanese War, so why not WWII. Well, now that there is an end in sight of the softball season for my two younger daughters, I can again get full swing back into gaming, thus the rules you see below. I have always liked skirmish level games for moderns, and have tried a number of rules sets over the years, from the old and out of print WRG Infantry Action Rules, to Buck Surdu's BAPS Rules. I have never liked, all the complexity of skirmish level rules though, and always look for ways to simplify things. Even Buck's rules, which are designed to be simpler, are really to busy for my tastes. I also know that the guys I game with, generally tolerate my interest in skirmish games, so too much work will definitely turn them off. All this being said, the next step was to put together a set on my own, that would suit my needs. It had to b,e fun, that was number one, it had to be easy to teach, see my comment below for the reasons for this, and yes, it did have to give a reasonably accurate feel of small unit combat.

My first thought, was to work with The Sword and The Flame, a great rules system, which I have modified more than a few times over the years, and which always gives a good game. I decided though, that it had too much of a large unit feel to it to work for close actions. They I started thinking about DBA. True, the rules are designed for the pre-gunpowder period, and yet there is a certain basic logic to the command system, that seems universal. Yes, simply by changing the army of 12 elements, to a squad of 12 figures or so, you present a commander with roughly the same sort of problems that face a squad leader, all without activation rolls and order chits ! Forcing the player / squad leader to control his unit with a single 1d6, presents a number of problems. If you keep your guys in base to base contact, you can move them faster on fewer points, but you also present a very tasty target to the dug in enemy. If on the other hand, you move them one at a time, you can cover them better, but it will take longer to develop your assault. Fairly close to the real thing, don't you think ? Again, the rules are simple, there are a lot of things that I have left out. Partly because given the size of the figures, and the short ground scale that results, things like sighting I believe, become unnecessary, but a sighting rule can always be added, as can anything else you find necessary. For instance, working with the currently available figures, I did not feel inclined to add rules for amphibious landings, or for desert environments. As more becomes available though, the rules can easily be further modified. The neat thing about using rules like this I think, is that it is not inconceivable for a player to handle a full platoon himself, especially in a situation where one is defending a fixed position.

Anyway, here goes, give the rules a try, and feel free to send me your comments or criticisms. When time permits, I'll follow all of this up with a couple of battle reports, to give you a better idea of how the rules play. One last note, two of the five garners in our group, have been playing for less than three years, and picked the rules up quickly ! I think that you can play the game without any previous knowledge of DBA, common sense should fill in the gaps, if you feel you need it though, the basis for this game, was the original, basic version of DBA, which is readily available. Note, mount the figures on whatever you like, as long as they are individual. You may want to use a metal base, and a system like my friend Dave Schmid's "Magna Dots-, to track guys who get suppressed or wounded.

INTRODUCTION -

This set of rules, is an attempt to combine the simple mechanisms of DBA, with a need for a playable system for small scale WWII actions. Using these rules, a single player should with practice, beable to run an entire platoon at 1 to 1. The basis of DBA, as you may or may not know, is an ~army. made up of 12 elements, reflecting the organization of a particular historical opponent. We will alter this, saying instead, that a force for this variant, will consist of 12 individual figures per player or per 1d6, each group of 12 representing approximately a squad. Vehicles will be introduced in small numbers, but at the expense of ground troops. This will be reflected in a brief table of point costs at the end of the rules.

Unless the game is part of an ongoing campaign or specifically designed scenario, the pre-start steps will be as follows;

1. Each player ( or a picked player form each side ) rolls 1d6. The winner sets out the terrain, and numbers the table sides from 1 - 4. He may also choose to attack or defend.

2. The loser then numbers 2 adjacent sides 5, 6 and rolls 1d6 to determine his point of entrance it attacking, or his area to defend.

3. Ignoring the use of base camps, the loser now sets out his forces within 12'of his edge.

4. The winner deploys his forces, and takes the first move.

Note that the defender, should deploy his forces hidden on paper, unless the action is a meeting engagement with both sides on the move. Naturally, if you are running a campaign type game, then the games will set themselves up, without the need to create scenarios. Just remember to keep vehicles at a minimum.

1 Movement -

1d6 + 2, will be rolled for each group of 12 - 15 figures, this may be done by a one player, or by a player for each ùsquad., depending on how many are involved. The number rolled, indicates the number of troops which can be moved that phase. If troops are placed with bases touching, it will cost a point to move the group. Naturally, it is the player's decision as to how long to keep troops in close order before they open up.

Point costs are double for crowed weapons, troops out of command radius ( 24" ), or troops moving over or through bad terrain.

Type	Good Going	Bad Going	Assaulting
Infantry	10"	6"	15"
Crewed Wpn.	6"	4"	- -
Cavalry	18"	12"	15"
Light Wheeled Veh. inc. Jeep, mcycle	24"	18"	- -
Hvy. Wheeled Veh. inc. truck, hftrk	18"	15"	- -
Tanks	15"	12"	- -

* Assaulting, must bring troops in base to base contact with an opponent.

II Fire Combat -

Each figure or weapon rolls 1d6 in their phase, opponent only defends. Each figure may fire in an arc up to one base either way, unless noted otherwise.

Spotting

Being a modern era game, it is safe to assume that everyone is hiding whenever they can, this means therefore, that we have to introduce a rule for spotting potential targets. Basically speaking, you can't fire at something ( even if it fires at you 1 ) unless you spot it. Spotting will be handled simply, using the basic mechanism for combat. A player express a desire for a figure or group of figures to attempt to spot a particular area, where he suspects the enemy to be. Roll as per fire combat, and for simplicity sake, we will assume the enemy to be a rifleman. If the spotter wins, he spots what is or is not in the area. Once an enemy is spotted, he remains in view for the remainder of the game, unless the umpire determines that he has moved out of sight. It will of course take a point to spot. Since fire is automatic when in range, a player may have his figures spot and fire in the same turn, though of course moving also takes a point.

Weapon	Range	Value	Can Attack Armor?	Burst Area
Rifle	24"	3	NO	--
SMG	15"	4	NO	--
Pistol	10"	3	NO	--
LMG	36"	5	NO	3 bases wide
HMG	48"	5	YES, softskins	5 bases wide
Grenade	10"	5	YES	4"
Rocket Lchr.	15"	5	YES	3"
Tank Gun, AT Gun	60"	5	YES	5"
Mortar	12-60" indirect	4	NO	4"
Flamethrower	15"	4	YES	4 basis wide

III Melee Combat - Roll 1d6 per combatant in base to base contact. Both roll for effect.

Type	Melee Value	Modifiers
Infantry	4	As above, where applicable
Elite or Russian	5	-
Militia or Partisan	2	-
Weapon Crews	3	-
Cavalry	4	-

Effects of Combat -

The results of close combat or fire combat, will depend on the difference in scores; If the score is not doubled.
- On a difference of "1", a figure is pushed back 1 full move.
- On a difference of "2 or 3", a figure is ~suppressed., and pushed back 1 full move. No move or fire for 1 full tum, it will cost 2 points to "unsuppress' a figure. Use a yellow dot to mark.
- On a difference of "4" or more, the figure is wounded, and moves and fires at 1/2 normal. Use a red dot to mark.
- The crews of heavy weapons, will obey the above, and will abandon their weapons.
- Vehicles on a difference of -4' or greater, will be considered damaged and immobile, and main armament will not function.

If the results of fire or close combat are doubled, then the target is destroyed. Since this is a skirmish game, bodies will be lain down where they fall, and vehicles should be marked with appropriate cotton balls.

NOTE THAT IF FIGURES ARE IN BASE TO BASE CONTACT, THAT ENTIRE GROUP COUNTS AS A TARGET, AND IS AFFECTED BY THE RESULTS OF COMBAT. THIS REFERS TO BOTH TROOPS ATTACKED BY HEAVY WEAPONS AS WELL AS BY SMALL ARMS.

NOTE THAT IF A SQUAD OR PLATOON LOSES ITS LEADERSHIP, IT WILL BE UNABLE TO MOVE FOR AN ENTIRE TURN, AS IT REORGANIZES ITS COMMAND STRUCTURE, IT MAY HOWEVER, DEFEND ITSELF.

The basic thing to keep in mind when using these rules, is that they sue for fun, and are quite definitely not deviled, WWII skirmish rules. Basically, any action you wish a figure or group of figures to undertake, will cost 1 or 2 points. In certain cases, the movement die roll may be further modified to allow for very good or very bad commanders. In addition, remember that the Platoon or Company Commander, is also rolling a die +2 for elements under his direct command, if ha does not need the points, he may dole them out where they are needed. You may also want to consider giving better troops an extra point or two added to the die roll, to reflect better training and more independent action.

I'd love to hear from anyone who takes the time to try the rules, with you comments, Leas or criticeme, wrlb to me at;

Nick Nascati
24 Cranford Rd.
Tumersville, NJ 08012