Wargaming Your Way Across Europe

Part I: Italy

by Charley Elsden

"In Italy, nothing is impossible, but everything is difficult."

    --Arturo Lorioli, Associazione Romana Storia Militare

"Whoever you are, when you visit Rome you are coming home!"

    --GianCarlo, City Guide

The sunny Mediterranean countries are perhaps the most relaxing of all, and the Roman women possibly the most lovely in the world. After a trip through the urban city traffic, we visited the permanent basement Bunker Clubhouse (100 square meters) of the Roman Military History Association, our host wargaming group in Rome. Two English speakers, Arturo Lorioli and Maurizio Bragagha, hosted a number of games for us. I played Frank Chadwick's new Men Under Fire with WWII British combined arms rousting Germans out of an Italian town. We enjoyed the free play flow and player friendly rules, which this Italian club was helping to playtest. Then for some of us it was British Colonial action with The Sword and The Flame in The Soudan. We held the Dervish hordes off and tested our new heliograph, but were unable to take the town-discretion being the better part of valor. Others played WW I Russians vs. Germans, the same German/Russian match up with. Great Battles of WWII, orWW II action with Command Decision.

Arturo was a very gracious host, who told us that his club's 35 members pay $10,000 in annual rent and expenses. They have a probation period for members, and currently had three more people in this status. He also presented us with their club enamel pins-black pickelhaube over white ancient Greek helmet! Arturo was to guide us throughout our stay in Italy. We had thin crust Italian pizza for lunch that was delicious; I also got the chance to try various other fine Italian signature dishes later on at several meals like Saltimbocca Alla Romana and Linguine with Fish.

Finishing out the day was a whirlwind City Tour of Rome. What did we see in an hour and a half? The Spanish Steps, St. Peter's Square, the River Tiber, The Palace of the Senate, The Column of Marcus Aurelius, Carabinieri on guard, The Forum (at the magical moment of dusk), Swiss Guards on guard, the Circus Maximus, the Victor Emmanuel Monument, the Mussolini Balcony, the Castle St. Angelo, the Bridge of the Prostitutues, Dante's House, various temples, churches, theatres, and palaces, City Hall, Emperor Trajan's Column, the Colosseum (capacity 60,000), the Arch of Constantine, the ruins of the Palace of Augustus, the Arch of Titus, and one or two buildings by Michelangelo.

Giancarlo, our Rome guide, was happy to discover a historically minded group, since he was also the director of a small museum on Garibaldi. He mentioned that when the great man was asked to help the Union during the ACW, he refused to come unless he was allowed to run the whole show! I noted that some of his veterans fought with the New York 39th Regiment (Garibaldi Guard, aka Lincoln's Foreign Legion). Rome is a gorgeous city, alternating open vistas with narrow streets set between old tall buildings, along which only pedestrians may stroll. Our enthusiastic guide said since everyone can find something in its long history they can relate to, anyone can feel at home here, even when visiting for the first time!

My favorite Giancarlo story here was the odd archaeological tale of Emperor Nero's palace. Now contemporary scientists always thought they knew the spots for the major Imperial residences. For example, the ruins of Augustus' palace is a famous site in the open air. So hated was Emperor Nero however, that his particularly splendid home was immediately abandoned forever as a cursed site. As the centuries went by it was built over, and completely forgotten. Only recently has it been rediscovered during excavations, and is now being explored as a magnificent "new" dig!

Next day we toured the Italian Motor Corps Museum (Museo Storico Della Motorizzazione Militare), the first of three major military vehicle collections we were to view in Europe. Here were World War I vehicles like classic old staff cars, truck mounted guns, and the type of ambulence driven by Ernest Hemmingway. Then came all the Italian vehicles used in WWII--tanks, SPs, armored cars--and some Allied vehicles as well (tanks, AT guns, artillery both British and American). It was touching to see how hard the small staff was working. As at many other sites, we were told that changes and improvements were being made each year. We were also given a copy of the official Italian Army magazine ("Rivista Militare").

Then it was off to the cozy seaside resort town of Anzio, where we viewed the very flat and formerly swampy terrain and beach, and visited the Beachead Museum, a one room exhibit with many fascinating phtographs, small arms, uniforms, and equipment German, American, and Italian. Arturo talked our way in during a time when it was officially closed, representing the 'Distinguised American Military Historians,' or something like that (see his quote above). Then we went to a wonderful seafood restaurant where we ate outside in the charming town square. On the way home, we took an ice cream stop and strolled about the modern shops. What a contrast between this quiet vacation spot and the desperate invasion that took place here not so very long ago!

While at lunch I related the only hobby related Anzio story I know. A chap of the British Royal Tank Regiment was walking along with about 99 of his mates in the constricted beach head when he heard a tremendous noise-as if a railroad train was chugging through the air. It was a huge shell from 'Anzio Annie' the famous giant German railway gun! The resulting explosion shook the ground like an earthquake, and the poor fellow lost consicousness as the upheaval flashed around him. When he awoke, he found everyone dead--but himself. Who was this Tommy who had been spared by Fate? None other than Donald Featherstone, who was to become of of the guiding lights of the miniatures wargaming hobby soon after WWII! And that's direct from the mouth of the Grand Old Man Himself, as related during a talk of his wartime experiences at an HMGS Convention in Lancaster, PA.

At the airport, we wished Arturo farewell with real regret. Everyone looked for his own way to say goodbye amidst hugs and piles of luggage Although the starting Italian and ending British segments of the trip were presented as 'add ons' to the main journey on the Northwest European Continent, everyone had signed on for both as well. And I think all were glad they had. Ciao, Arturo!

Wargaming Your Way Across Europe 2003: A Tour Commentary

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© Copyright 2003 Hal Thinglum
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