by Paul Chamberlain
No doubt many readers of
this magazine will have attended the big event in Waterloo in
June 1995, either to participate or watch the proceedings. I do
not propose to relate an account of the whole event, but will
describe the museums that exist in and around the Waterloo
area. If you intend visiting the site of what is probably the
most famous battle ever fought, then you may find the following details of use.
MUSEE DE WELLINGTON
Any visit to Waterloo will invariably begin with a look at The
Wellington Museum in Waterloo itself. This building was Wellington's
Headquarters on the 17 and 18 June 1815, and now houses a very
impressive collection of exhibits relating to the battle and the armies involved.
The entrance fee in June 1995 was 80 Belgian Francs, and
the ticket is purchased in what doubles as ticket office and souvenir
shop. This is very well stocked with books, models, prints and other
tempting Napoleonic souvenirs. This room also starts the museum
exhibition with a display entitled The Grand European Alliance. It
looks at the situation in Europe from the Congress of Vienna in 1814 and the armies arrayed against Napoleon upon his return to power the following year.
In the second room of the museum can be found an exhibit
called The Belgian Provinces. It chronicles the return of these lands
to Austria in March 1814, and their transfer to the Dutch King William
of Orange in August that year. This room has pictures relating to the
Belgian cavalry who fought in the Waterloo campaign. It also includes
the story of some of the Belgian Generals who had fought first under
Napoleon and then as part of the Belgian forces.
Moving on from this room the visitor will come to that in which
Sir Alexander Gordon, ADC to the Duke of Wellington, died on the
night of 18 June 1815. This room not unnaturally contains exhibits
relating to the casualties and care of the wounded after the battle,
including the wooden leg wom by Lord Uxbridge after he had
recovered from losing a limb at Waterloo.
The corridors linking the rooms of the museum are
full of paintings, engravings and weapons relating to the battle,
thus it requires a few hours to see everything in this museum. The
Duke of Wellington's Room is where the great man spent the nights
of 17 and 18 June, and where he wrote his famous dispatch after
the battle. Original furniture, the Duke's folding campaign table, and
two showcases containing objects belonging to the Duke form this part of the display.
The Dutch Room is a particularly interesting chamber in that it
contains pictures and artefacts of the Dutch contingent. Pictures
include that of the Prince of Orange handing over command to
General Rebecque after having been wounded during the battle, and
a picture of him at Ouatre-Bras on 16 June.
On the wall can be found a Dutch musket, a Belgian Light
Cavalry Officer's sword, and General de Constant Rebecque's
travelling kit. The museum does not neglect the Prussian involvement
in the campaign and on the walls hang a number of pictures of Blucher and his troops.
In the French Room can be found several portraits of
Napoleon; pictures of French troops at Waterloo; portraits of Soult
and Massena; and two flags destined to be presented by Napoleon
to units of the National Guard.
All aspects of the Waterloo battlesite are explained in this
museum. One room is devoted to the protection and conservation of
the battlefield, and there is an interesting map showing the places
around the world named after the famous engagement. Many of
these are in the United States of America and Australia, but
included is my home town of Waterlooville in Hampshire, the story
of which I will relate at the end of this column.
Leaving the museum at the rear you will enter the garden and
courtyard. In it are a number of memorials to officers who fell during
the battle, as well as the monument to Lord Uxbridge's leg. This was
formerly situated in the garden of 214 Chaussee de Bruxelles, the
house in which Uxbridge stayed.
The last room of the museum tells the story of the battle using
illuminated maps, interspersed with items of uniforms and weapons.
The museum is open from 1 April to 15 November, from
0930 to 1830 hours. From 16 November to 31 March the op.ening
hours are 1030 to 1700 (except Christmas and New YearI. In the
souvenir shop can be found a number of very good guide books in a
variety of languages. The Wellington Museum is well-worth a visit,
and allow at least three hours to study everything. The museum is
situated in the centre of town so it is only a very short walk to
restaurants and shops, which should please partners who have
been dragged to Waterloo! For further information contact:
Musee de Wellington, Chaussee de Bruxelles, 147, 1410
Waterloo Tel. 00.32.2.354.78.06 (International number).
TOURIST INFORMATlON OFFICE
This building is conveniently situated next door to the
Wellington Museum. The very helpful staff can supply information
on places to stay, visit and eat and drink at, with leaflets and guide
books in a variety of languages. l recommend that a visitor to
Waterloo begin their tour at this Office, where full information can be
found to assist in planning the visit and gening the most out of time
spent at Waterloo.
Contact:
Syndicat d'lnitiative et du Tourisme de Waterloo
Chaussee de Bruxelles, 149, 1410 Waterloo
Tel. 00.32.2.354.99.10
Opening
hours: 16 November - 31 March 1030 - 1700
1 April- 15 November 0930- 1830
ST. JOSEPH ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH Inside this church are
27 memorials to the officers and men of both sides who fell in the
battle. The first part of the church that is entered is the Royal Chapel
in which can be found a bust of the Duke of Wellington plus British
and Dutch memorials.
This building is worth a visit, and there is no admission charge.
The church publishes a short guide and history of the building, which
is available free to visitors. However, please be aware that it is a
church in which people worship so respect the people praying there
and leave something in the collection box.
MUSEE PROVINCIAL DU CAILLOU - NAPOLEON'S HEADQUARTERS
This building served as Napoleon's Headquarters on the night of
17 June and now houses a very good museum relating to the Emperor and his army.
Contact: Musee Provincial du Caillou, Chaussee de Bruxelles, 66 1472 Veux-Genappe Tel. 00.32.2.384.24.24
Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 1000 - 1830
1 November-31 March 1330-1700
According to a leaflet obtained from the Tourist Information
Office, this museum is closed in January and on Mondays (except Bank Holidays). In contrast, a leaflet obtained from the museum states that it is closed in February and on Mondays except Public Holidays.
MUSEE DE CIRES - THE WAXWORK MUSEUM
This is one of the attractions on the battlefield itself, near the Lion Mound. It contains a number of waxwork figures representing Napoleon and his troops during the campaign. Contact: Musee de Cires, Route du Lion, 315, 1410 Waterloo Tel. 00.32.2.384.67.40
Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 0900 - 1830
PANORAMA DE LA BATAILLE
This famous panorama of the battle is well-worth a visit, depicting the charge of the French cavalry on the Allied squares.
Contact: Panorama de la Bataille, Chemin des Vertes Bornes, 90 1420 Braine-l'Alleud
Tel. 00.32.2.384.31.39
Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 0930 - 1830
THE LION MOUND AND THE VISITOR'S CENTRE
This monument dominates the battlefield. It is a memorial to the
Prince of Orange who was wounded in the battle at this spot, and it
was constructed between 1824 and 1826. Its height of 140 feet
gives the visitor an impressive view of the battlefield.
I would recommend climbing the 226 steps to the top
accompanied by a good guide book of the battlefield so as to
appreciate the salient points of the action. There is a legend that
the lion was made from the bronze of French cannon
abandoned on the battlefield, but this is one of the myths that has
arisen since the battle. The 28 ton sculpture was made in Mechelen,
cast in nine pieces and transported by sea and canal to the harbour
at Brussels, and then transported to Mont-Saint-Jean by wagon.
There is a Visitor's Centre just opposite the Mound, which can
supply information about the battlefield. Contact: Butte du Lion -
Centre du Visiteur Route du Lion, 254 1420 Braine-l'Alleud Tel.
00.32.2.385.00.52
Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 0930 - 1830
GENERAL INFORMATION
Waterloo is, not surprisingly, probably the best place to go
for information on the campaign of 1815, and all the museums have well stocked souvenir shops. Some items for sale are good value, while others are not worth a look. I recommend
shopping around before parting with any money, as you may be able to buy that particular print cheaper elsewhere, for example. Also, browse through the many guide books on offer, as some are better than others.
One that I recommend is The Battlefield of Waterloo Step By Step which covers all the places of interest in the area, including the numerous monuments that are to be found on the battlefield. I obtained my copy in the Tourist Information Office for 100 Belgian
Francs, although I did see it on sale in the museums. Different language versions of this booklet are available.
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