The Dusty Archive:

Waterloo

by Paul Chamberlain


No doubt many readers of this magazine will have attended the big event in Waterloo in June 1995, either to participate or watch the proceedings. I do not propose to relate an account of the whole event, but will describe the museums that exist in and around the Waterloo area. If you intend visiting the site of what is probably the most famous battle ever fought, then you may find the following details of use.

MUSEE DE WELLINGTON

Any visit to Waterloo will invariably begin with a look at The Wellington Museum in Waterloo itself. This building was Wellington's Headquarters on the 17 and 18 June 1815, and now houses a very impressive collection of exhibits relating to the battle and the armies involved.

The entrance fee in June 1995 was 80 Belgian Francs, and the ticket is purchased in what doubles as ticket office and souvenir shop. This is very well stocked with books, models, prints and other tempting Napoleonic souvenirs. This room also starts the museum exhibition with a display entitled The Grand European Alliance. It looks at the situation in Europe from the Congress of Vienna in 1814 and the armies arrayed against Napoleon upon his return to power the following year.

In the second room of the museum can be found an exhibit called The Belgian Provinces. It chronicles the return of these lands to Austria in March 1814, and their transfer to the Dutch King William of Orange in August that year. This room has pictures relating to the Belgian cavalry who fought in the Waterloo campaign. It also includes the story of some of the Belgian Generals who had fought first under Napoleon and then as part of the Belgian forces.

Moving on from this room the visitor will come to that in which Sir Alexander Gordon, ADC to the Duke of Wellington, died on the night of 18 June 1815. This room not unnaturally contains exhibits relating to the casualties and care of the wounded after the battle, including the wooden leg wom by Lord Uxbridge after he had recovered from losing a limb at Waterloo.

The corridors linking the rooms of the museum are full of paintings, engravings and weapons relating to the battle, thus it requires a few hours to see everything in this museum. The Duke of Wellington's Room is where the great man spent the nights of 17 and 18 June, and where he wrote his famous dispatch after the battle. Original furniture, the Duke's folding campaign table, and two showcases containing objects belonging to the Duke form this part of the display.

The Dutch Room is a particularly interesting chamber in that it contains pictures and artefacts of the Dutch contingent. Pictures include that of the Prince of Orange handing over command to General Rebecque after having been wounded during the battle, and a picture of him at Ouatre-Bras on 16 June.

On the wall can be found a Dutch musket, a Belgian Light Cavalry Officer's sword, and General de Constant Rebecque's travelling kit. The museum does not neglect the Prussian involvement in the campaign and on the walls hang a number of pictures of Blucher and his troops.

In the French Room can be found several portraits of Napoleon; pictures of French troops at Waterloo; portraits of Soult and Massena; and two flags destined to be presented by Napoleon to units of the National Guard.

All aspects of the Waterloo battlesite are explained in this museum. One room is devoted to the protection and conservation of the battlefield, and there is an interesting map showing the places around the world named after the famous engagement. Many of these are in the United States of America and Australia, but included is my home town of Waterlooville in Hampshire, the story of which I will relate at the end of this column.

Leaving the museum at the rear you will enter the garden and courtyard. In it are a number of memorials to officers who fell during the battle, as well as the monument to Lord Uxbridge's leg. This was formerly situated in the garden of 214 Chaussee de Bruxelles, the house in which Uxbridge stayed.

The last room of the museum tells the story of the battle using illuminated maps, interspersed with items of uniforms and weapons.

The museum is open from 1 April to 15 November, from 0930 to 1830 hours. From 16 November to 31 March the op.ening hours are 1030 to 1700 (except Christmas and New YearI. In the souvenir shop can be found a number of very good guide books in a variety of languages. The Wellington Museum is well-worth a visit, and allow at least three hours to study everything. The museum is situated in the centre of town so it is only a very short walk to restaurants and shops, which should please partners who have been dragged to Waterloo! For further information contact:

Musee de Wellington, Chaussee de Bruxelles, 147, 1410 Waterloo Tel. 00.32.2.354.78.06 (International number).

TOURIST INFORMATlON OFFICE

This building is conveniently situated next door to the Wellington Museum. The very helpful staff can supply information on places to stay, visit and eat and drink at, with leaflets and guide books in a variety of languages. l recommend that a visitor to Waterloo begin their tour at this Office, where full information can be found to assist in planning the visit and gening the most out of time spent at Waterloo.

Contact: Syndicat d'lnitiative et du Tourisme de Waterloo Chaussee de Bruxelles, 149, 1410 Waterloo Tel. 00.32.2.354.99.10

Opening hours: 16 November - 31 March 1030 - 1700 1 April- 15 November 0930- 1830

ST. JOSEPH ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH Inside this church are 27 memorials to the officers and men of both sides who fell in the battle. The first part of the church that is entered is the Royal Chapel in which can be found a bust of the Duke of Wellington plus British and Dutch memorials.

This building is worth a visit, and there is no admission charge. The church publishes a short guide and history of the building, which is available free to visitors. However, please be aware that it is a church in which people worship so respect the people praying there and leave something in the collection box.

MUSEE PROVINCIAL DU CAILLOU - NAPOLEON'S HEADQUARTERS

This building served as Napoleon's Headquarters on the night of 17 June and now houses a very good museum relating to the Emperor and his army.

Contact: Musee Provincial du Caillou, Chaussee de Bruxelles, 66 1472 Veux-Genappe Tel. 00.32.2.384.24.24

Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 1000 - 1830 1 November-31 March 1330-1700

According to a leaflet obtained from the Tourist Information Office, this museum is closed in January and on Mondays (except Bank Holidays). In contrast, a leaflet obtained from the museum states that it is closed in February and on Mondays except Public Holidays.

MUSEE DE CIRES - THE WAXWORK MUSEUM

This is one of the attractions on the battlefield itself, near the Lion Mound. It contains a number of waxwork figures representing Napoleon and his troops during the campaign. Contact: Musee de Cires, Route du Lion, 315, 1410 Waterloo Tel. 00.32.2.384.67.40

Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 0900 - 1830
1 November - 31 March 1000 - 1645 (weekends only)

PANORAMA DE LA BATAILLE

This famous panorama of the battle is well-worth a visit, depicting the charge of the French cavalry on the Allied squares.

Contact: Panorama de la Bataille, Chemin des Vertes Bornes, 90 1420 Braine-l'Alleud Tel. 00.32.2.384.31.39

Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 0930 - 1830
1 November - 31 March 1030 - 1600

THE LION MOUND AND THE VISITOR'S CENTRE

This monument dominates the battlefield. It is a memorial to the Prince of Orange who was wounded in the battle at this spot, and it was constructed between 1824 and 1826. Its height of 140 feet gives the visitor an impressive view of the battlefield.

I would recommend climbing the 226 steps to the top accompanied by a good guide book of the battlefield so as to appreciate the salient points of the action. There is a legend that the lion was made from the bronze of French cannon abandoned on the battlefield, but this is one of the myths that has arisen since the battle. The 28 ton sculpture was made in Mechelen, cast in nine pieces and transported by sea and canal to the harbour at Brussels, and then transported to Mont-Saint-Jean by wagon.

There is a Visitor's Centre just opposite the Mound, which can supply information about the battlefield. Contact: Butte du Lion - Centre du Visiteur Route du Lion, 254 1420 Braine-l'Alleud Tel. 00.32.2.385.00.52

Opening hours: 1 April - 31 October 0930 - 1830
1 November - 31 March 1030 - 1600

GENERAL INFORMATION

Waterloo is, not surprisingly, probably the best place to go for information on the campaign of 1815, and all the museums have well stocked souvenir shops. Some items for sale are good value, while others are not worth a look. I recommend shopping around before parting with any money, as you may be able to buy that particular print cheaper elsewhere, for example. Also, browse through the many guide books on offer, as some are better than others.

One that I recommend is The Battlefield of Waterloo Step By Step which covers all the places of interest in the area, including the numerous monuments that are to be found on the battlefield. I obtained my copy in the Tourist Information Office for 100 Belgian Francs, although I did see it on sale in the museums. Different language versions of this booklet are available.

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