Battles of Aspern-Essling
and Wagram 1809
Part I

Aspern-Essling 21-22 May

Modern Photographs (slow: 183K)

Article and Photos © by John Salmon

The Photographs

The day I spent on the Battlefield of Aspern - Essling was gloriously sunny and baking hot, just like it was during the battle. I sympathised with the soldiers, especially the wounded as they lay dehydrating in the heat. The water surrounding them had become so fouled with the flotsam of battle that it had to be strained through cloths before it was anywhere near drinkable. The straining of course would had done nothing to remove the bacteria that must have been multiplying exponentially in the heat and filth. When we arrived on Lobau island the mosquitoes attacked us with all the tenacity of the Old Guard. If you go to the area in summer use plenty of insect repellent and cover up your arms and legs, my bites were intensely itchy and I got off comparatively lightly. Having said that it was only after I had photographed several points of interest that I realised part of the island was a nudist colony. It says something for Napoleonic enthusiast that the nudists points of interest were barely noticed in comparison to the much more interesting Napoleonic ones. Don't bother checking the photographs, they have been edited, (censored). Next time I must ask them how they avoid the mosquitoes.

View from south bank of Lobau island over arm of Danube. Although largely tamed, the river in Napoleon's time was prone to flooding. On 21-22 May 1809, pontoon bridges would have connected the series of islands. The Austrians severed these by floating water mills downriver, carried by the current--stopping Napoleon's efforts to bring over additional re-inforcements. Without the additional men, he couldn't break the ring of Austrians hemming in his troops. After two days of fighting, he retreated back across the river--his first defeat in Europe.

Napoleon stein on Lobau island marking where the Emperor watched his troops march across a small stream.

Lobau Island--large enough for whreat fields and agriculture, and capable of being astaging area for thousands of soldiers. Most of the island today is a nature reserve.

On the north bank of Lobau, looking west towards Aspern. It's very flat.

Looking due north. Bessieres used his cavalry to great effect and managed to control this area for much of the 21st. Lannes attacked through here.

Looking due south from same spot. Although much of the battlefield is still agricultural, suburban and industrial sprawl has occurred. The factory in the distance is owned by GM.

The famous granery at Essling.

Another view of the Granery.

Lion monument near the church at Aspern. The German text translates as: "To the memory of the glorious Austrian soldiers who fell on the 21 aqnd 22 May 1809."

The church at Aspern, site of bitter fighting.

Equestrian statue of Charles, outside Hoffberg Palace in central Vienna.

Charles rallying his troops on painting in Austrian Military Museum, Vienna.

More Aspern-Essling


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