Travel:

Walk Around York, UK

Part 2

Article and Photos by Russ Lockwood


This section is north of the River Ouse and east of the River Foss. Walls also exist south of the River Ouse.

The walkway is 5 feet wide. From the walkway to top of crenallation is 5.5 feet. The openings are spaced every 10 feet, and the opening is 3 feet wide by 2 feet high. The wall is 1.5 feet thick.

There is a small corner tower--although tower is too grand a word. It is more an open platform measuring 10 feet wide by 15 feet long, with the openings slightly narrower: 2 feet wide.

From the top of the wall to the base where the ground meets the vertical wall ranges from 10 to 20 feet. It is quite low. However, just below the wall are Paragon, Barbican, and Foss Islands Roads, which presumably are built upon where the moat used to be.

In the northwest part of the wall, fronting Lord Mayor's Walk and Gillygate streets, the moat (at right) remains relatively intact, adding another 15 or so feet advantage to the defenders.

Walmgate Bar

Bars, at least in York, are what we would call gates, gateways, gatehouses, and/or gateway towers, as they can "bar" your way. York boasts several, among which is the:

    Bootham Bar, which guards the main northern road, and allows access to the northeast section of wall
    Monk Bar, which has a working portcullis
    Micklegate Bar, which is the traditional entry gate for monarchs (as well as for the display of traitors' heads). Micklegate translates roughly as "great street" and the bar was built in the 11th/12th centuries; and
    Walmgate Bar, the only town gate in England (as opposed to Scotland and Wales) to preserve its barbican--a funnel-like structure designed to force attackers to bunch up in the attack.

The Walmgate Bar (at right) was built during the reign of Edward I, added to in the Elizabethean period, and the barbican added by Edward III. It was damaged in the siege of 1644. The coat of arms of Henry V appears on the outer side.

Large Photo of Bar (slow: 118K)

This is a very busy bar, as the road goes right on through, and care must be taken even crossing the street to the other side of Barbican Road. The only measurement I took was from the wall to the end of the barbican (approximately 55 feet). Measure the width at your own peril.

The Shambles

In the middle of this tourist area sits the Shambles, a series of buildings that illustrate, if only for a few yards, how narrow medieval cities could be. The top rooms on either side of the street virtually touch, and are certainly close enough that you could stick you hand out the window and shake hands with your across the street neighbor.

We ordered take-away sandwiches and Earl Gray iced tea from a shop next to Bootham Bar--nothing fancy, but sufficient for a quick bite--and walked across the street and into the Museum Gardens. We sat on a bench by the Observatory as we ate a relatively leisurely, if late, lunch.

The Yorkshire Museum is adjacent, but we had the Jorvik Viking Centre in mind, and had to pass its Roman, Viking and Medieval treasures by. Indeed, there are many other museums and historic homes within York, such as the Regimental Museum, by Clifford's Tower; and the Castle Museum, also by the Tower; Richard III Museum, York Dungeon, National Railway Museum, and others listed.

In the end, we spent a half day in York--far too short, but all the time we had. We settled for a walk about town, the Jorvik Viking Centre, and York Castle Museum.

Dinner was at a French restaurant next to the Post Office. I believe it was called Victorie Pierre--but do not quote me on that. It's a chain, as we have seen others in different cities in the UK, and serves a wonderful meal. It is on Lendal Street.

Hotel

As for hotels, bed and breakfasts, and other lodgings, the Tourist Information Centre near Bootham Bar will book you into one of the many in and around York. This is the first time I have encountered a charge (a somewhat steep £ 2.90) for the service of calling around the area asking if a room is available. It is also the first time the staff did not provide any guidance about hotels--very strange, as the TICs are a favorite of mine.

In any case, we were pleasantly booked into the Meadowcroft Hotel, a few blocks from the Bootham Bar. It had its own car park, included breakfast, and had a bathroom in the room. The room was lovely, the staff cheery and helpful, the bed firm (I admit to being a fussy tourist in this regards. After walking all day, I want a good night's sleep, and nothing makes me toss and turn more than an old lumpy, sagging bed), the facilities worked, and the next morning brought a solid English breakfast. The one-night price for two: £ 43.20, or about $70 in US dollars. According to the invoice, you may reach them via e-mail: mcroftyork@aol.com, write at: 84 Bootham, York YO3 7DF, telephone at: 1904 655194 or fax at: 1904 651384.

That's York

And that is an all-too-quick overview of a wonderful city. There are many more museums and attractions, and it certainly is a place I will try and return to, should I get the chance.

Walk Around York (Part 1)

More York


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