Charge of the Light Brigade

Quick Start Rules

By David Louis Raybin

It is 1854. The Russians are attacking the allied supply ports so as to lift the siege of Sebastopol. The Turks, the " Thin Red Line," the Heavy Brigade and the Light Brigade are all that stand in tile way!

The Game Itself

Troops are organized in a uniform manner. Infantry are 4 castings to a stand ( 2 up and 2 back) with 6 stands to a "unit" plus one additional leader figure who is usually mounted. Cavalry have 2 figures to a stand with 6 stands and a command figure per unit. Each battery has three stands with a piece and 2 figures per stand and no separate command stand. An infantry and cavalry "unit" represent about 500 to 1000 actual men but I do not worry overly much about such things. I just call them "regiments" and let it go at that. Remember that the name of the game is simplicity. We use six-sided dice because they are easier to read. Depending on the number of players, each person playing the game should command about two to three units.

The rules for the game are my Charge of the Light Brigade specifically designed for the Crimean War. Everyone will be provided with a play sheet which will have the charts and an outline of the rules. The key to the game is the turn sequence and the use of "command points." When the turn begins each side rolls for initiative. The side which had tile initiative last turn adds one to the die roll since, in this game, if You have the initiative you tend to keep it. If you won more close combats than the other side there is an additional modifier. The side winning the initiative gets his choice of who acts first that turn.

A player's turn is divided into phases. The first phase is "free" and all units can do any one action of their choice. An action is: a move, fire, close combat, limber, Lmlimber, dismount etc. The point is that a unit is limited to only one action of its choice. Once all your units have taken their free action phase You can spend command points to take further action(s). This is really the guts of the game. Each unit has so many command points ( the other guy does not know how many since this number is written on tile bottom of each leader figure). In the first command point phase a unit - if it desires - can spend one of its command points and take another action of its choice. Then there is a second cornmand phase and those units which burned a point can take another action - if desired - by paying two points. A third phase in that same turn requires the expenditure of three points for a single action. This can go on and on but there are few units which would have enough points to go more than four command phases in a single turn. Of course using that many points means you have burnt them up and you might need them later on.

What usually happens is that most folks use one command point per turn at most since it gets very expensive to take more than one or two command phases per turn (because of the additive effect per turn). The ability to use command points, in effect, rcpresents a unit's extra energy to "double time" or execute a charge. The better units have more command points and thus can do more things during a game. This also eliminates a host of other variables which tend to complicate things - and thus otherwise slow down the game.

While one side is using command points the other side gets a limited reaction capability. Ifside A uses a command point for a given unit then all enemy units within range get to firc on that unit. The fire is simultaneous only in this phase. Enemy cavalry get a reaction charge. This reaction capability keeps things from getting out of hand because otherwise the fellow using command points could run right up on the enemy with impunity. Using command points has a risk factor if your unit is close to opposing troops. The flip side is that - where the risk is low - you can move your guys near the action with dispatch and get right into the fray. In desperate situations you can reinforce a unit which is about to be overrun. A limited number of command points keeps folks oil edge.

Movement in the game is by die roll; each pip representing an inch. A unit in line can move 2 dice .... in column 3 dice. There are die penalties for terrain and that sort of thing. Given the relatively low number of units in the game allows for movement by die roll which a lot of folks seem to enjoy.

Changing formation in this game is an action as is unlimbering or limbering guns. This means that if you want to change formation and move in the same turn you need to burn a command point. My idea is that any alteration of the current activity tends to SLOW the unit down given that each action represents a brief moment in "real time." Artillery cannot shoot and scoot in the same phase like a modern tank. These were the days of' limbered guns and it took some time to gather up the pieces before moving away to a new position.

Fire is simple. Each stand throws a die and a table shows if there is a possible "hit." This considers weapon type and target. You have seen a dozen charts like this. Long range is half hits rounded up. Rifles fire out to 20" and most artillery at 40". Remember, you only get one shot per turn (and that constitutes your activity unless you wish to burn a command point and fire again).

Even after a possible hit is scored, the unit gets to roll on the "save chart" to see if it call avoid the casualty. The chart is nonlinear, which is to say there is a greater probability for a save -- at least for some units -- when the unit is at full strength then when the unit is reduced to, say, 30% of the stands. This process is to represent tile higher quality of one unit over another in that one call take the same amount Of Punishment and still retain a higher combat effectiveness.

In short, the better units fight at "normal" strength for a long time and then - when they reach a certain damage level - they evaporate. Poor quality units diminish proportionally as they take losses. You don't have to worry about any of this as you play since the save chart does all tile work for you.

The morale rules are simple. There are a number of things which cause a morale chit. It is the normal stuff like-losing a leader or having a unit rout near you ... that sort of thing. Another morale event is if an enemy unit throws two sixes in a single fire phase. If a "bad" morale event happens to the unit the target unit draws a morale chit representing some degree of being shocked by this level of loss all at once.

The morale chits can accumulate on the unit. You can have as many as you want until the number of chits equals the number of stands in the unit in which case the unit routs. The sanction for a morale chit is simple: one pip is deducted from every die the unit rolls for all purposes. Since almost everything - including movement - is governed by the dice this penalty is subtle and with several chits - crippling. Nevertheless you don't have to worry about complicated morale effects charts. Just deduct that pip. You can remove a chit during your phase but that consumes the action, unless you want to burn a command point and do something else that same turn.

Close combat is a special activity. Close combat (melee) is an action. A unit declares a charge and moves (by die roll), if it can, to a point two inches from enemy stands. Enemy gets a reaction activity. Then the charging unit rolls for morale. A unit can then corrimence an automatic close assault (without rolling for morale) by paying the number of command points required for that phase If you survive any defensive volley then the stands fight it out in close combat. Since fire combat is so bloody there are not that many hand-to-hands, which do take up some time, but are lots of fun.

As earlier noted, each unit is a "regiment" of between 600 and 1000 men. In this game, I have elected not to have any fixed higher command structure other than by saying that each fellow in the game commands so many units. In this fashion the comnion units tend to stay relatively close together which is all "higher command" tends to do anyway ( besides unduly complicating things ). Allowing a fellow to detach his units froin each other is Just fine since everyone can then learn from the mistake. The above summary of the major components of the rules should get you well into the game quickly. All you have to do now is figure out which side you wish to Join and start throwing dice.

STANDS
Or arty figs
LEFT L
6+
Leader
5+4+ 3+2+1+
Leader
Brit Inf4,5,65,66XXX
French Inf5,65,65,65,6XX
All Turks XXXXXX
Br & F Cav.4,5,65,66XXX
Russ Inf5,65,65,65,65,65,6
Russ Cav5,65,65,666X
All Arty5,6 per figure6 per figure 6 per figure

Leaders Save with a 3,4,5,6. A 1 is a Kill and a 2 is a Wound.

MOVELINECOLUMNROADLow HillsHigh Hills
Streams
Woods
Walls
Trenches
Infantry234- Low Die- High Die - Low Die
Cavalry345- High Die-2 Highest - High Die
Ft. Guns3---4- High Die-2 Highest No Cross
Hr. Guns4---4- High Die-2 Highest No Cross
Staff444444

Retreat requires the unit to move four dice away from enemy (ignore terrain restrictions), face away from enemy and try to regain morale on its next action. If it cannot regain morale -- by failing to pull a chit -- it routs again until it regains morale or vacates the field of combat. The unit can automatically pull a morale chit as its action for that phase except when the unit is in rout status.

A Unit can close assault (or pull a morale chit in rout status) by adding number of stands (or artillerymen) including the leader plus one die equals 5 or 6.

a) Movement is by six-sided dice. Number in chart is number of dice for a move depending on the unit type and formation and terrain. Each "pip" is an inch. Units need not move the full distance.

(b) Interpenetration: minus low dice to moving unit.

(c) Retrograde, about face, left or right movement is ONE die of movement for all formations,

(d) Squares cannot move.

(e) Prolong Artillery is ONE die. An even number is needed to cross walls, streams or high hills.

(f) DEDUCT ONE PIP FROM EACH DIE FOR EACH AIORALEMARKER ON UNIT.

(h) Cavalry is either moving or standing. Moving cavalry must have had at least 4" of forward movement in its last phase -- either free, command, or reaction -- to be considered moving for combat and morale purposes. Changing formation or firing is considered a standing action.

SAVE TABLE

(the number inside the block is that needed to save the casualty on 1D6 depending on the number of stands remaining at the time the save roll is made)

X = no save possible

Roll one die per stand or artillery figure;
number on chart is a possible hit on target unit
Muskets & Rifles
Russ Ft. Artillery
Allied Ft. Arty
Russ Hrs. Arty.
Dismounted Cav
Allied Hrs. Arty
Mounted Cav
Lines and Deployed Guns4-6 [5-6]3-6 [4-6]2-6 [3-6]
Columns, Limbered Guns,Double Lines5,6 [6]4-6 [5,6] 3-6 [4-6]
Enfiladed Lines, Column, Square6 [6]5,6 [6]4-6 [5,6]

[#] for units in cover.
Fire Priority: Units Charging at you, Units firing at you, Units advancing on you, nearet enemy
Double sixes (natural) also tag the target unit with a morale marker. A third 6 also includes a possible leader casualty.
Leader Casualty: Roll 1d6. On a 1= Kill, 2 = Wound. If killed, new leader after second turn with 1/2 comm. pts (round up)
Stands may pivot up to 30 degrees and fire at -1 DM.
Double line is 2 lines within 4" of each other.
Arc of fire is 45 degrees off center.
Woods: Fire at or fire out if at edge. If inside, only fire within 6".
Hills: Crest blocks fire. Units on crest can fire over units of no other obstacles within 6".
LONG RANGE: DIVIDE POSSIBLE CASUALTY HITS BY HALF (round up). Morale Marker hits are NOT divided in half.
MORALE: Take a Morale Marker for each event:

    natural double 6s on a fire.
    Leader killed, captured, or wounded
    Friendly unit routs within 6"
    Friendly unit withdraws through unit.
    Lose close combat.
    Unit withdraws


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