One of the most interesting aspects of Napoleon's return from Elba is the time from when he landed in the Gulf of Juan on 1 March 1815 to his return to Paris on 20 March. His itinerary is known as the Route Napoleon, and it is marked by a series of monuments, inns, hotels, and restaurants, many of which are still standing today.

The Route Napoleon starts in the port of Golf-Juan, (located six kilometers to the east of Cannes) by a monument located in that port with the inscription: Ici debarqua Napoleon (Here, landed Napoleon). Two other monuments in Golfe-Juan mark the Emperor's start, one at the railroad station on the left of road N 7 before the junction of the road D 135 going to Vallauris a column with the inscription Souvenir du 1er mars 1815.

From there he spent the night in Cannes. A small monument on the north side of the Notre-Dame-de-BonVoyage church says that Napoleon spent the night of 1-2 March in that city.

Then the route goes by MouansSartoux (M rue Donat-Mero) to Grasses where Napoleon bivouacked on 2-3 March, and continues through Saint Vallier-de-Thiey (M place de la Liberation), Escragnolles ("Auberge Napoleon" on N 85 where Napoleon rested) then Seranon where one can still see the ruins of the modest Chateau de Brondet where the Emperor spent the night of 2 March.

From there the Emperor went through Logis-du-Pin, (On R 85, "Auberge du Logis-du-Pin" where he halted. Castellane, Barreme (see Grande rue where he spent the night of 3 March, and finally Digne where he had lunch at the Hotel du Petit-Palais. We arrive at Malijai where we find the Chateau Napoleon where he spent the night of 5 March.

At Volonne where the Emperor rested at the entrance of the village (now Hotel Touring), we find an inscription in Provencal relating a nature call: EISHI LOU 5 DE MARS 1815, NAPOLEON (no need for translation!).

From there he went through Sisteron (Hostellerie du Bras d'Or) where he had lunch on the afternoon of 5 March, La Saulce, La Tourronde and Gap where he spent the night at the Hotel Marchand.

On the next day, 6 March, he went through Les Barraques-de-Saint-Bonnet (M on the road), La Guingette, Corps where he spent the night in the Hotel du Palais de Justice.

On 7 March, Napoleon advanced on Laffrey where the famous Pre de la Rencontre (Meadow of the Encounter) is located. At the entrance of the meadow there is a monument with several inscriptions, one which says [1]:"In that meadow, on March 7, 1815, at about 3:00 p.m Napoleon I disembarked from the island of Elbe and on his way to Paris by forced marches faced a battalion of the 5th of the Line, harangued it and convinced it to join him."

In the middle of the meadow is a rock, not far from where the historical encounter took place, where one can find a mounted statue of Napoleon by Fremiet. On the cemetery wall is a another inscription:

"Soldiers. I am your Emperor. Don't you recognize me? If among you there is one who wants to kill his general, here I am! 7 march 1815"[2] .

The 5th Line Battalion rallied to Napoleon.

From there he went through Tavernolles, on D 5, where Napoleon had dinner in the local inn and went to sleep in Grenoble where he spent 7-9 March.

His next stop was in Bourgoing on N 85, where he slept on 10 March at the Hotel Cesar et du Parc. On the 11th,, he reached La Guilliotiere (a small borough now part of Lyon) where he had lunch at the Hotel de l'Aigle, (105-107. Grande Rue de La Guillotiere) before he went to Lyon [3] where he spent 10-12 March in the Palais St. Jean.

From then on, the Imperial party appears to have picked up the pace. On 13 March Napoleon is in Villefranchesur-Saone, where, it is reported, some 50,000 welcomed him enthusiastically. He had lunch in the old Hotel de Ville (city hall) and continued his journey to Tournus (on N 6). There, on 14 March, at the Hotel du Palais-Royal, he stopped with Cambronne, Drouot and Bertrand.

On 15 March, the Emperor spent the night at the Hotel St.Louis et de la Poste where the room in which Napoleon spent the night still exists. The 16th was a long journey and Napoleon stopped at La Pierre-Ecrite (32 kms north of Autun on N 80) where on the front of the old Relais de la Poste one can read: "In that house Napoleon returning from Elba stopped on 16 March 1815."[4] From there he went to Saulieu where he spent the night at La Borne Imperiale, now an excellent restaurant, which happens to be, one of our favorite spots (see part two of this article). Napoleon, like us, must have liked Saulieu, because he sojourned there three times in his life, the first time on 10 January 1801, the second time on 7 April 1805 and finally on 16 March 1815.

Here, I have to make an important practical comment. From Lyon to Paris, Napoleon went through serious gastronomic country.[5] Did a worried Emperor enjoyed the renowned culinary dishes of Burgundy? We like to think so but Napoleon's meals were often something expedited in a few minutes. Hardly a way to appreciate fine dishes. But we know that he enjoyed the Chambertin.

The next day, 16 March, he was in Avallon where he spent the night on the Hostellerie de la Poste, Place Vauban, where the bedroom that Napoleon occupied still exists. On the entrance, above the door, is the inscription: "On his way back from Elba, Napoleon I, sojourned in that hotel."

Then it was Auxerre on 17 and 18 March, where he established his Headquarters in the Prefecture. From there, on 19 March, he established his Headquarters on 22 Grande Rue, where now the inscription reads: "Napoleon, on his way back from Elba, spent the night in this room."

After stopping at Fontainebleau and Juvisy-sur-Orge, Napoleon finally arrived in Paris on the eve of 20 March.

[1] French text: Dans cette priarie, le 7 mars 1815, vers 3 heures de l'apres-midi, Napoleon Ier, debarque de l'ile d'EIbe et gagnat Paris par marches forcees se heurta a un battallion du Ve de ligne, le harrangua et, entraina a sa suite.

[2] French text: Soldats. Je suis votre Empereur. ne me reconnaissez-vous pas? S'il en est un parmi vous qui veuille tuer son general. Me voila!!! 7 mars 1815.

[3] It is claimed that the city of Lyon is watered (in that case a poor translation of the French word arrosa) by three rivers: the Rhone, the Saone and the Beajolais.

[4] Lyon claims to be the gastronomic capital of France, with Burgundy a close second.

[5] French text: "En cette maison, l'Empereur Napoleon de retour de l'ile d'Elbe, s'est arrete le 16 mars 1815."

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