It is relatively easy to obtain a reasonably good general impression of highland military uniform in this period, notwithstanding an unhealthy, if understandable pre-occupation in most secondary sources with the four Waterloo regiments; the 42nd, 71st, 79th and 92nd. It is also a relatively straightforward matter to ascertain the facing colours and lace patterns even of the short-lived units raised in the early 1790s, but it is rather less easy to obtain reliable information on the tartans worn and virtually impossible in relying solely upon secondary sources to come upon details of the form or construction of peculiarly highland garments such as kilts.

The aim of this article therefore is to describe the Napoleonic period kilt in as much detail as the primary source material allows, particularly with regard to the exacting requirements of the better reenactors.

THE KILT

The most obvious and most striking feature of highland uniform was the kilt; essentially a wrap-around skirt, pleated at the rear and made from tartan material; in most cases based upon the old government sett con1monly referred to as 'Black Watch'. Before discussing the matter of regimental tartans it is however first necessary to look at the form and construction of the kilt; a garment which was significantly different from its modern counterpart.

Surviving documentation relating to the provision of clothing for highland regiments makes it quite clear that three and a half yards of material was the norm in the 1790s, with four yards being allowed for sergeants' kilts. [1]

On the other hand Regulations for the Cloathing of the Infantry [1801] laid down that Sergeants, Corporals, drummers and privates were to receive six yards every two years. This however was the old allowance made for the belted plaid and by this date less may in fact have been issued. In any case at least a yard of material and probably slightly more will have been required, besides that needed for the kilt, for the Fly Plaid, a piece of tartan attached to the rear of the left shoulder on formal occasions in order to recreate the appearance of the belted plaid.

Since eight, or at the very least seven, yards of material is required for a modern kilt it follows that there was insufficient material issued for the very deep pleating so characteristic of modern kilts and that what was worn in the 1790s and early 1800s must therefore have been rather different.

Happily at least two O.R.s' kilts survive from c.1796; one in the Scottish United Services Museum in Edinburgh [2] and the other in the Gordon Highlanders Museum, and the notes which follow are based upon a close study and reconstruction which I have made of the Gordons kilt in the SUSM.

A kilt comprises a single strip of material with a central pleated section and a flat apron at either side. When the kilt is worn the pleated section forms the rear and the two aprons are folded one over the other at the front with the left hand apron uppermost.

Pleats

Although modern army kilts have a set number of pleats according to regimental practice, in this period it was probably still individually tailored by varying the number of pleats. The surviving Gordons' kilt in the SUSM for example has 21 box pleats, rather than the 29-31 rather deeper knife pleats used by the regiment today and tailoring of the kilt has simply been achieved by pleating outwards in either direction from the centre until the desired fit was achieved. One feature which the SUSM kilt does share with more modern ones is the addition of a fringe sewn along the vertical edge of the outer apron. This is both decorative and serves to prevent the raw edge of the apron itself fraying.

Box pleating is quite easily constructed and certainly easier accomplished than described. Measurements are unnecessary since the sett of the tartan provides all the reference points needed. Take as your starting point the broad vertical green band nearest to the centre of the material. Most usefully this will in practice be a double band with a darker strip running down the middle. Fold over and pin down just enough material on either side of the band to cover it and meet in the middle along this central dark strip. Then repeat the process working outwards on either side until the desired size is attained. Next turn it over and pin down the pleats on the reverse side as well.

When viewed from the front a checked pattern will of course be seen on the apron but the pleated part of the kilts of regiments without coloured overstripes will simply display the horizontal bands, while the reverse is true of those with overstripes and both the horizontal and the vertical bands [and more particularly the vertical overstripes] will be visible.

The effect in the latter case is to result in a much lighter coloured rear. Effectively those units without overstripes on their kilts will have a dark blue pleated area crossed by horizontal green bands while those with overstripes will have a green rear shot through with a dense pattern of vertical overstripes in addition to the horizontal overstripes.

The top eight to nine inches of each pleat need to be sewn down both inside and out and the lower part of the pleats ironed flat. The SUSM kilt is unlined and the top edge has been left rough, though it is necessary to run a strong thread around the top to prevent undue fraying.

Depending upon the tartan used the kilt may now be worn either with the green and blue horizontal bands running across the back or with the coloured overstripes showing as the case may be.

In reconstructing one of these early kilts it should be noted that modern tartan material is usually of broadcloth width [54"] rather than the 27" wide plaiding used at the time. It is only necessary therefore to purchase two metres of full width material which can then be cut in half lengthways and sewn together to give you something over four yards, which is entirely adequate for a kilt of this description. [3]

Finally it should be apparent from this description that this form of kilt is cheaper and much easier to make up than breeches and trousers.

As for the means of fastening the kilt it should at once be noted that the present arrangement of straps and buckles was not used in this period. The Black Watch for example apparently relied upon three pins down each side of the apron until as late as 1914 [4] while the Gordons kilt in the SUSM is fastened by means of two flat brass buttons set into the very top of the kilt at either side of the apron. Reinforcement patches have been sewn in behind the buttonholes on the outer apron and probably also behind the buttons themselves. Using these buttons will have avoided the damage to the material inevitably resulting from prolonged use of pins. [5]

In the case of officers' kilts these pins seem to have been concealed by decorative green silk rosettes. They still survive in the Black Watch and Argylls as a flamboyant but entirely decorative feature.

Those worn in the Napoleonic period, as evidenced by surviving examples and illustrations, were small, circular and flat.

The kilt is worn surprisingly high on the body. The bottom edge needs to be clear of the ground when kneeling and then the top edge, depending on the height of the wearer, will then generally be found to come at least as high as the breastbone. Consequently a substantial part of the kilt is hidden by the white waistcoat worn in the 1790s and subsequently by the singlebreasted coatee. Belts were not used as a means of support, reliance instead being placed upon a good fit. [6]

Part 2

Other Kilt Articles:

Military Kilts and Tartans Part 1
Military Kilts and Tartans Part 2
Return Fire Kilt Colours