With Abercrombie and
Moore in Egypt

In the Desert

WE encamped on the 16th at Algam where the cultivated land is narrow, and the sandy desert is gradually making it less, for the sand is continually gaining towards the river. On the morning of the next day the 17th, as we were going to the boats for our rations an Arab was seen riding into the camp at full gallop with his turban flying at the end of his lance. He was directed to the commander-in-chief's tent, where he gave intelligence that the French were in the desert to our right and rear.

On this alarm the dragoons and light artillery and our brigade got under arms. General Doyle rode along the ranks and told us he would get us bread and rum before we started, and he rode off at full gallop to the commissary's for that purpose but, just as he and the rations came in sight the order to march was given, and we entered the desert very ill-prepared indeed. We fbllowed our guide as quickly as we could and at length, after marching seven miles, we came in sight of the enemy, who fired upon our advanced guard and retreated but after a few shots being fired from our artillery they surrendered.

We found them to be a party of 600 men with 550 camels, on their way from Alexandria to Cairo for provisions. They had a large sum of money with them but before they surrendered their commissary caused it to be divided among his own men. This was the worst day's march we had in the country. Very few men had had time to get water in their canteens, at every step we sank over the ankle in light sand, and for three paces to the front we slid one back. The sun was very hot and not a breath of wind. Hundreds of our people dropped down and had to be taken up by the camels and I am sorry to say that some of the men of our brigade while in this helpless condition' were killed by the Bedouin Arabs for the sake of their arms and accoutrements.

On our return we met some Turks coming to our assistance with many camels and horses bearing skins of water. This was a blessed relief; we all drank greedily; our throats being so parched it was long before we were satisfied, and in the hurry much of the precious water was spilt. No tree nor bush nor any herbage grows here; sand, nothing but sand and sunshine. Sometimes you think you see water before you at a distance. 'A lake, a lake!' cry some of our people, in a short time it is gone, but it appears again and again i it is a strange illusion.

We got out of the sand about 6 o'clock in the evening. On the plain we fell in with some sort of fig-trees, the fruit having a notch on one side; we devoured everyone we could reach. We escorted our prisoners to the river where they were embarked in boats, then returned to our tents and found that the men who went for the rations had done their duty ; every camp kettle was full of water and our rum and provisions ready. When the roll was called of our company one half was absent : they all joined during the night.

A camel park was formed under charge of Captain John MacLean of our regiment and Sergeants James Clark and Alexander MacLean went as assistants to him. Each regiment got camels to carry the tents in lieu of the boats which were sent down the river with the prisoners. Our officers got some good horses and asses, and the soldiers' wives were provided with these latter animals which are very large and superior to any we had ever seen. But they caused a great noise in the camp in the night time, for when one began to bray they all got on the same tune and disturbed our sleep much.

At Algam were the greatest flocks of pigeons I ever saw or ever will see I believe. The town is surrounded with dovecotes built round from top to bottom with earthen pots; in these pots they breed and hatch their young. The Turks kept firing at them most of the time we were here--no sparing of ammunition with the Turk. We had to wait three days here for bread and when we got it we found it coarse rusks, as hard as bricks which had to be steeped in water before we could use them.

We had one day's hot wind from the south (23rd May) which will ever be remarkable to the Egyptian army. The morning was lowering and the sun was of a blood red colour. It began toblow about 9 o'clock: and woe be to him that is far from shelter, as neither man nor beast can survive in it three days! It came from the desert as hot as the opening of an oven door, bringing small sand like mist along with it. All our sentinels were called in and the cattle crept close to the ground and groaned for fear. The buffaloes took to the river, covering themselves all but the nose in the water; flesh putrified; any metal substance could not be touched with the naked hand ; and no man was able to stir out of his tent until the evening when happily the wind changed to the north-west.

We crossed a neck of sand and passed a deserted village which had been overflowed with this shifting sand. On this march we heard that a Turkish army had marched from Syria into Egypt by way of Salehieh and Belbeis. We encamped on the 28th at Manouff a large town where the French had a garrison. It stands on the left bank of the river, near where it divides, one branch flowing to Damietta, the other to Rosetta, and enclosing what is called the Delta, the most fertile part of the country.

A canal here unites the two branches. This day we took a prize of five boats laden with stores, shoes, and money; they had got on the wrong branch of the river, and missed the French who were retiring before us. General Menou's lady was in one of these boats; she was a native of this country and lately married to the French commander-in-chief: she was sent to him at Alexandria. We were not permitted to take any article from the boats, though shoes were in great demand among us; but when our faithful allies the Turks arrived they took whatever they wanted.

THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT

This part of the country so abounded with frogs that it was impossible to get at the water in the river without treading upon them, and from their slimy nature many a tumble some of our men got: after dark they croaked so as to be heard at a considerable distance from the river. So some of the plagues of Moses exist here yet. The flies are in swarms about the towns ; you must keep your hands in motion to Prevent them going down your throat or into Your eyes. In some places the ground was black with fleas, especially in places where the French had been in camp. As for sand lice, when the date trees were split at Aboukir for making the general hospital, I have seen so many in the hearts of them that they might have been gathered in handfuls.

One day locusts passed fiom west to east in such numbers as to darken the air; while as to boils, few of the army that marched to Cairo escaped them. I myself suffered from this trouble and also from prickly heat but was forced to do my duty with them the best way I could, and some days that was bad enough.

Marched forward to Mishlee and encamped. On 1st June we were joined here by Mamelukes under command of Ibrahim Bey, fine looking soldiers indeed. Many of them were mounted on those running camels or dromedaries, with all the luxury the country can afford, dressed in fine silk robes, fitter for a court than a camp, with red velvet saddles and silver rings in the noses of their camels and with silk cords to guide them. Atadistance they looked like a lot of women ; yet they are said to be brave in the field. Each of them has an Arab or two running in the rear on foot carrying lances which they throw with great dexterity from their camels or dromedaries, and are sure of their object at 30 or 40 yards distance; I have often seen them at Practice at their camp at Cairo.

Our army marched past in open columns of companies with drums beating and I am certain they could think no less of us than we of them as they sat on their camels smoking. This day while marching in companies some men on the right of our company fell in to a slime pit; the sun dried the clay upon their clothes and they were droll figures.

4th June to Lochmas; 5th, Ouardan; 7th, Gatta; 8th Burlos; 14th Saael; 16th to a place almost within reach of the enemy's guns. Here we were joined by the 28th and 42nd regiments, which had marched from Alexandria in twelve days. 18th, came in sight of the Pyramids, the two large ones: this cheered us on.

On the 21st we halted within two miles of Gizeh and encamped with the enemy to our front ; threw a bridge of boats across the Nile and raised batteries on each side for its protection. A line of dried buffalo skins was stretched on stakes, musket proof at 30 Yards distance. All stores and baggage were halted below the bridge.

The Grand Vizier's army arrived on the other side of the Nile, nearly opposite to us, and a great multitude they appeared to be. With tents and marquees pitched without order, camels, horses, asses, Arabs, they covered a great extent of ground. There was little subordination or regularity among them. Some of our artillerymen who had been at Constantinople instructing the Turks appeared here like gentlemen. I went over to the Turkish camp with Corporals Sinclair and Innes of our company, drank some very strong coffee, and got two whiffs of an opium pipe, which some of the Turks smoke until they are intoxicated. As the bridge of boats was a ready means of communication between the two camps many of the Turks came over to look at the people who could beat the French.

The whole armyadvanced and drove in the French outposts. They disputed the ground on the east bank of the river with the Turks and kept up a heavy cannonade upon them from a battery at a windmill; this kept them at bay. We marched on and took up our position with our left opposite the centre of Gizeh and at a great distance from the river, for the French had fortified the banks as well as Rodda Island in the middle of the river. Some heavy guns were brought up from our flotilla. We were joined by the 42nd, 79th, and 90th regiments under command of General Oakes. It was reported that the Indian army under General Baird had sailed up the Red Sea and landed at Cosseir and Suez, marched across the desert, and was driving the French down the river.

Thus being fairly hemmed in on all sides the enemy offered on the 22nd to capitulate to the British generals only. This was agreed to, and a large marquee was pitched between Gizeh or what was called the Horse Barracks, and our front line. The staff of both armies met accompanied by a guard of twelve men from each, who were very friendly with one another. The capitulation being signed and hostages exchanged the French were to march to the seaside and embark with their arms and ammunition, bag and baggage, and to be taken to the nearest port in France in our ships at the expense of the British Government. I believe they were very glad to return to their country. This was done 27th June 1801 On the 29th General Moore joined us, having now recovered from his wound received on 21st March.

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