The role of cavalry units in American Civil War wargames is often frustrating for the gamer. Generally first comes the grand inspiration phase perhaps caused by Jeb Stuart, Nathan Bedfored Forrest, Ben Grierson, or Phil Sheridan (depending on your favorite side). The reality phase begins with the discovery of just how expensive all those mounted and dismounted figures really are. Then comes research, perhaps even staring at a neighborhood horse trying to figure out how to paint your horse castings.
If your favorite set of Rules uses points to buy units, then you will discover cavalry units can be expensive in another way. The disillusion phase starts because after all that effort most gainers invariably use their ACW cavalry units in the sterotypical encounter battle. Typically the cavalry gallop out to seize critical terrain and fight dismounted until friendly infantry march up in relief. Then it's time to remount them and hold these units in general reserve. Very rarely do cavalry units in general reserve do anything for the rest of the battle.
This is personally annoying since another hobby of mine involves working with morgan horses. This breed fought on both sides during the war, most notably in the lst Vermont Cavalry and Rush's Lancers. I recently spent an afternoon holding two rather rowdy morgan mares while they were being shod. Therefore I have great sympathy for anybody in a battle who was just sitting a horse while in general reserve. Because of this, several alternatives to the Oklahoma Land Rush of 1889 encounter battle scenario the occurred to me.
1. What happens if the infantry is late, doesn't arrive, or arrives tired out? Brices crossroads, from the Union side, is a prime example of how foot soldiers didn't always come up in time and in peak strength. If you can't count on the infantry them suddenly your cavalry units become very valuable indeed. All you need is to dice for arrival of infantry marching on to the battlefield.
You might also roll to see if infantry units arrive worn out from forced marching. If your rules don't contain these features then must just make up a simple probability chart.
2. Tailor your army's size to the table and don't have so many troops that they solidly extend from one edge to the other. The idea here is to allow for open flanks. If you and your opponent are thinking of an outflanking maneuver, then you have to secure your flanks and hopefully unhinge your oppositions. Cavalry would be ideal for these open areas rather than trying another Gaines' Mills style charge in the center where infantry are plentiful. After all what gamer doesn't cherish the thought of replaying Chancellorsville on the other side?
3. Make cavalry as large a part of your forces as you realistically can do so. You might find doing this a bit complicated. First off you have to consider the level of the rules you're using. In a brigade level set like "Fire and Fury" adding a cavalry regiment to a brigade is impossible. However each out for the bane of ancients wargaming - the unrealistic "killer army". Also consider how Union regiments grouped together in ever-larger all cavalry formations as the war went on. So in 1862 Phil Sheridan's infantry division had a brigade of 1350 cavalry at Perryville. As the war went on, Union infantry formation just didn't have cavalry attached.
4. If your interest is re-fighting historical engagements, stick to battles where cavalry were present in large numbers. From the Union standpoint, a nice example would be the cavalry divisions of Wesley Merrit and George Custer at Winchester 1864. Smaller but equally significant concentrations of cavalry have occurred in other battles.
The idea behind points three and four is to give you such an investment in cavalry that these formations must fight and can not sit out the battle in reserve. If your flanks are open and your infantry are late, there is no other option but to fight using your cavalry to your best ability.
5. Set up a battle sometime where time allows a pursuit phase. Admittedly most gamers who have lost just want to end the game, particularly if it's dragged on for a long time. You don't have to try a pursuit in all games, but it does make for an interesting change. All it takes is to learn about how long a set of rules takes to fight a certain sized battle and the adjust the forces involved. The idea here is to field an army with a restricted number of units so there will be a decision before all the players become exhausted. So long before everybody wants to quit playing, the loser is defeated and on the run. If it's your opponent then you get to pursue otherwise your cavalry gets to fend off the opposition. Either way your forces have some very typical and realistic cavalry missions to carry out. Try using some type of points scheme so every loss inflicted in the pursuit can be counted.
6. Try typical cavalry mission like a raid on a railroad. The attacker gets to secure the road, wreck it, cover the railroad wreckers, disengage and the return to friendly territory all with limited losses. Meanwhile the defender is trying everything possible to hinder the proceedings. You might also get other ideas from sources like Stephen Z. Starr's three volume histories of Union cavalry or from his history of the 7th Kansas Cavalry - Jennison's Jayhawkers. There's plenty of inspiration available for you, if not in the Civil War then look elsewhere. You really don't need to know any Morgans to get inspired. In closing just remember the unofficial troopers' motto of the pre-WWII US Cavalry - "Over, Under or Through."
AFFERTHOUGHTS
If you're stymied looking for a guide to horse color the late Ben K. Green's "The color of Horses" has an excellent series of full color plates. Over a year ago Hal Thinglum's "Midwest Wargamers Newsletter" printed an article I wrote on horse color for wargamers.
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