Our story starts in Southampton, where we embarked on the M.V. Patricia of the Swedish Lloyd line. On the following day, during the dog watch, David Chandler, the eminent historian from Sandhurst, gave some of the passengers and ourselves an introductory lecture to the Peninsular War. He is a superlative speaker-and we all received a clear insight into the Grand Strategy of the campaign. In later lectures we got down to the "nitty gritty".
Climbing up through the pass in the snow-covered mountains out of Bilbao we had a sheer drop on one side, and could in places see parts of the old road. One could imagine how difficult it had been to march a column of artillery through this pass. Down to the plain, which is two thousand feet above sea level, we came into worm welcoming sunshine. Our first port of call was Vitoria, on the principle of seeing the last battlefield first!
Approaching from the Durano direction we saw the road the fleeing French took to Pamplona. After pausing at the bridge over the Zandorra at Camara Mayor we went on to Vitoria itself, where we parked opposite the Vitoria statue, which we diligently photographed. Our next stop was at the famous Tres Puentes bridge, where the Light Division and 15th Hussers crossed.
It was fascinating to see the actual ground -- the road to the bridge was in "dead ground" large enough to hide quite a number of troops. One could imagine the soldiers feelings as they formed up to assault the Arinez hill. Here a second battle was fought when we discovered a large snow drift, not yet melted. On again past the heights of Puebla which must have been hard work for Hill's second division 'as they were sheer cliff in places.- Many miles later a stop at the Somosierra Pass, where Napoleon directed a disastrous frontal assault up the narrow roadway, sacrificing a squadron of Polish Lancers in the attempt.
While in Madrid we did a lot of walking visiting shops and museums. The best shop was run by a red-haired Spaniard, very pro British, sporting a REME badge on his jacket! Here Ken Chapman bought a bargain El Cid - giant size replica sword - from the vast selection of swords for sale. Across the park to the Military Museum, where we saw a large collection of model soldiers in the basement and also purchased some super 54mm models very cheaply.
A couple of blocks away was the Marine Museum, up a very impressive flight of marble steps. Here I spotted some obvious errors i.e. in one glass cabinet a collection of 54mm Britains included a Royal Marine Band, unfortunately in incorrect positions, also did the Spanish sink three Royal Naval ships at Cape St. Vincent? I'm sure we won! Here I went sick with Spanish stomach -- but had a couple of doctors on board so all was well. Incidentally it is worth mentioning that more casualties were caused by sickness then battle in the Peninsular War. Extremes of heat and cold together with problems of food and water made life very difficult for the troops.
We left Madrid early for Talavera where our first stop was at the old bridge over the Alberche. A detour down farm tracks took us to the Case Salinas. Here, while reconnoitering from one of the twin towers, Wellesley was surprised by a force of tirailleurs and whilst escaping drew his sword. The Cass is now used as agricultural flats and the tenants had never heard of the Peninsular War let alone Wellington. (Ah! These mad English!).
Further on to the Talavers battlefield we debussed on the Medellin and tried to make out where various ridges were. The famous reverse slopes were very gentle here. An artificial mound topped the Medellin upon this was built a luxury bungalow. The owner showed us a map of the battlefield and also several cannonballs, found while ploughing up the hillside to make a forestation. The valley the 23rd Light Dragoons had fallen into is now a small lake surrounded by wild herbs. Indeed one recollection of Talavera was of a strong smell of sage or is it thyme? We searched in vain for more cannonballs in the hot sunshine and then pressed on to Toledo which we reached in late afternoon.
Here amid narrow mediaeval streets we found our hotel but had to wait until the bullfighters finished using our rooms for changing. Some of the bloodthirsty members went to the bullfight, but were almost thrown out when they cheered a bull which ripped one of the toreador's trousers. We saw over the Alcanzar -- where a heroic siege withstood all assaults in the Civil War, and where the Governor's son was executed by the Reds when his father refused to surrender. More purchases of swords and souvenirs and early next morn on to Avila where the "Gun" was filmed.
Here we had a memorable picnic just outside the city walls - wine, bread and cheese, more wine and a fund of funny stories. A hectic dash around the walls and town -- where Don bought all the models in one shop -- pirated Airfix figures painted, about a dozen a pack for 2 1/2p a packet.
On again to Salamanca with its impressive Plaza Mayor. A visit to the battlefield in the cool of the evening gave us a private's eye view of the terrain. Here there was enough dead ground to hidden army -- as the French found out to their cost. Climbing through barbed wire to the Lesser Arapile we sheltered in its lee from the strong cold wind which had blown up.
Here David Chandler gave another battlefield lecture and in the dusk one could almost see the ghosts of the cavalry charge across the plain and the dark columns of the French. In the cool(?) of the evening we drove to Aldea Tesada and in narrow country lanes we almost had to draw swords to cut our way past Spanish peasants armed with a tractor. Driving back in the dark to our hotel in Salamanca we came upon a candle lit procession of hooded penitents - rather like Ku Klux Klan. The people carried crosses or candles and marched to the measured beat of drums. One remembered tales of the Inquisition.
On the final day, we drove through country resembling the top of a wargame table. There were trees more like toys than real, scattered in forests where boulders and rocks of all sizes lay amid streams, vineyards and mountain passes -- good bandit country, (one bandit said -- "I had to kill four Frenchmen before I found a pair of boots that fitted!")
A lunchtime assault of the steep slopes of Burgos Castle was very rewarding and we saw all the immensely strong defensive positions of the castle. Alas time and tide were rushing out and we were due on board the ship in two hours. A hair-raising "short cut" down a 2,000' cliff on hairpin bends and an equally hectic dash through an endless traffic jam and we arrived at the ship with minutes only before she departed.
The voyage home included an entertaining evening, when all the party dined together. It was a tired, dusty but happy band who returned -- carrying swords, battleaxes and booze through customs, together with unforgetable memories of a happy holiday. So ended one of the most fascinating foreign tours I have ever been on, well away from the normal tourist haunts, as yet unspoilt. I think that Wellington would have approved of our seeing for ourselves these famous fields.
Congratulations to John Gaylor and his helpers for organising such a splendid trip - - but please -- can we have a commando course to get us fit before the next raid on the Continent?
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© Copyright 1973 by Donald Featherstone.
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