Battlefields by Chance

Unpredictable Wargame Terrain Placement

by T. J. Higgins

Deciding on the type of terrain on which one wishes to have a battle can be a problem if one is not fighting a well documented battle or using Ordnance Survey maps or a site agreeable to both combatants. The trouble with agreeing on an imaginary field is that it can be rather unrealistic especially when neither will allow the other to have the advantages such as hills, protective woods, etc. Invariably this leads to the dull terrains that we see appearing annually at Conventions, each side of the battlefield almost a mirrored opposite. To put an end to this once and for all and provide a more challenging and unpredictable terrain I have developed a system of terrain laid out by dice throws.

The average sized tables used by our group are 4' to 5' by 7' to 8' made of chipboard. The size is immaterial as long as it roughly corresponds with the diagram - I shall explain the details of the various numbers as I go along.

"1": First take a normal dice. Start at area 1 (large) and throw dice to see what it will contain: 1 - Houses; 2 - Nothing; 3 - Wood; 4 - Hills; 5 Field; 6 Nothing.

Having noted what is in each area, now we dice to see how much of the area will be covered. You will see that a dotted line quarters each area - this is an imaginary line and need not be marked in pencil (the others may be marked in places). I suggest that woods, houses and fields be placed before the start line say 611, 911, 1211, this rests with the individual.

So, dicing would be as follows: 1, 2 - Northern side of area- 3, 4 - Southern side. 5, 6 - whole area.

For hills, rivers and roads a different system of dicing is involved. Having diced for area I as an example, we dice again: 1 - North-West quarter; 2 - NorthEast quarter; 3 - South-West quarter; 4 - South East quarter; 5 - entire west area; 6 - entire East area (this is shaded area).

Rivers

For the point of entry the player on the West dices to see "if and where" using the numbers round the edge of the board. 6 on the dice means no river on that side, if a point of entry is diced then the player on the East dices for its exit point - if he throws a 6 then the watercourse ends in a swamp or bog (or the first player on the West dices for an exit point on his own side).

"2 : Roads"

Each player dices twice and having ascertained the roads and river entrance-and-exits, leave them unmarked until the hills are decided upon, so that their natural course can be ascertained.

Detail on formation of terrain:

WOODS

The condition of these may be decided by dicing.

1: Dense woods only light infantry in open order.
2: Medium woods all half speed; cavalry in single file; no cannons.
3: Sparse wood all units open order half speed.
4: Orchard same as 3 but no cover from cannon fire.
5: Small clumps of dense trees open areas
6: Trees in thin rows along area perimeter and any rivers and roads.

HILLS
1 - A small hillock
2 - A hill
3 - A hillock on top of a hill
4 - A ridge
5 - A long ridge
6 - 2 long ridges forming a valley

RIVERS

Dice to see the nature of the water in each area.
1 - Brook of no importance movement-wise.
2 - A stream fordable by dicing.
3, 4 - A fast deep river unfordable but bridgable in 1 hour of time.
5, 6 - A stream of no importance but swampy areas each side.

HOUSES

This depends on the individual as to how many he wishes to pack into an area. Personally, I like to have a minimum of 41, so as to allow movement round it. Where a dice throw allows one to cover the whole area, this would be made as a town or large village.

Having finally created the terrain, if it is desired to make it even more interesting one only has to dice again as in the beginning. This would create such things as a village on a hill or in a forest. We generally assume that a special throw for a field means it is a ploughed one or cultivated enough to reduce movement and surround it with a hedge.

METHOD OF ENTRY:

In our group we have developed a system of forces entering onto the battlefield that may be used with this type of wargaming. Looking at the diagram, you will see in each quarter area behind the start line running from North to South, a series of numbers from 1 to 6 each letter being enclosed (for easier identification)(1) (2) etc.

The first dice throw will indicate where your advance or first force will be placed on the board, decide yourself on how wide a frontage at the start line. Now dice for infantry - the number on the dice denotes how many regiments. Next dice for cavalry, the number on dice representing how many units. This can be carried a stage further by dicing odd or even for heavy or light cavalry. Now dice for artillery

    1, 2 means only light guns (4lb and 6lb).
    3, 4 medium (8lb and 9lb).
    5, 6 heavy (12lb and above including Howitzers).

So, now you have the make up of your force and their board position. Next we divide the remainder of your army into two equal forces and decide when and where they will enter the battlefield. Dice for the point of entry of the second group, and then dice for how many game-moves after the start they move on. The third and last group also dice as the second group, but their game-move onto the board is the number on the dice after the second group. One may be fortunate and start with a large force and have the two reserve forces coming on rapidly behind.

Alternatively one may be forced, by low dice throws, to start with a weak force and have to quickly move laterally to protect an entry point for your reserves. The enemy, by gathering in strength, could catch them unprepared as they come on or even prevent their entrance, so necessitating off-the-board moves - a bad thing when the advance guard are fighting for their lives. Alternatively, one may prefer to make some off-the-board moves so as to come on at a point of one's own choosing.


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© Copyright 1972 by Donald Featherstone.
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