El Yunque is a rain forest located 25 miles away in the eastern part of the island, or about an hour or so from San Juan. Rather than renting a car, we purchased two tickets ($45 each) for a mini-bus tour down in the Hilton lobby. Leave at 9am, back at 3pm or so said the brochure. We left at 9am.

Our driver kept up a patter pointing out this and that as he swung off the main highway and onto Rte 187, a one lane in each direction coast road. We drove through small towns and rural areas and along the beach. Away from the glitter of beach resorts, you see a lot of run down places.

We turned into the park and stopped at the El Portal Visitor's Center. The architecture alone is worth the visit. It's grand, new, and subsumed into the environment. A short film explained the importance of rain forests and talked about Puerto Rico's official bird, the Coqui, which is just about extinct. A gift shop and restrooms complete the level, although additional levels hold the rain forest research facility.

From there, a series of switchbacks take you up the mountain to the Yokahu tower--a fine lookout spot.

Switchbacks continue upwards to the Palo Colorado Information Center, which sounds grander than the one-room hut really is. Then, we piled out of the bus for a short half-mile walk along various trails. Our driver led the nature hike and pointed out this plant and that, and explained some of the culture of the island.

Then it was back in the bus, down the switchbacks, and a stop at La Coca Falls, a small waterfall the brochure says is 85 feet high.

On the way back to the hotel, this time taking the main highway, we made the obligatory stop at the tacky tourist gift store where the driver gets a kickback. Happens all over the world.

Back in the bus, and then a real treat--the driver stopped at a road-side vendor, one of many lining both sides of the road. Now, we hadn't had lunch and it was about 2pm, so you had a bus full of hungry tourists--most of whom blanched at the idea of eating fried food from a lean-to, battered deep fryer, and questionable sanitary conditions at the side of the road.

For $1 you could get a chicken roll (fried bread with bits of chicken cooked in--like an arepa, only with chicken, not cod) or similar. Are you kidding? I grew up on fried foods like this. I purchased a couple of them and a ice cold soda. Great lunch. The rest of the tourists fell into line.

And then it was back to the hotel through yet more traffic jams.

All told, while I am not a fan of these tours, I always want to stay longer somewhere and shorter somewhere else, they are more convenient than driving. And they stop at roadside stands.

El Yunque Brochure

Nowhere in the World will your eyes observe a greater wealth of beauty than what is waiting for you in the rain forest in the Luquillo Mountains. According to ancient Indian legend, the good spirit "Yuquiyu" reigned on his mighty mountain-top throne, protecting Puerto Rico and its people. The name Luquillo is derived from this god spirit's Indian name. Many of the sights you will see today are the same as those that dazzled the first Spanish explorers more than 500 years ago. You'll see 1,000-year-old trees, strange plants with exotic rainbowcolored flowers, and thick vines with great masses of lush red blossoms waving in the cool breeze.

El Yunque

From the heart of this breathtaking beauty you'll hear the incessant, yet delightful, two-note chanting of the "Coqui," the chattering of unseen tropical birds and, if you are lucky, the squawk of the endangered Puerto Rican Parrot. And, even though you may have already seen all the other wondrous sights this world has to offer, you will never forget the enchantment of.. The Caribbean National Forest.

Come Visit El Yunque Rainforest's Recreation Area along Rd 191

El Portal Tropical Forest Center

• 2.7 mi drive from Hwy #3
• At entrance to the Forest
• Short movie shown continuously
• Permanent Exhibits
• Gift Shop
• Restrooms
• Entrance Fee
• Center Hours 9 AM-5 PM

View to the north and the Atlantic Ocean

La Coca Falls

• Access Control Gate, 2.4 mi from El Portal 85 ft drop with variable water flow depending on recent rains
• Gift Shop
• La Coca trailhead nearby

Yokahu Tower

• 69 ft high observation tower Wide view of NE side from coast to peaks
• Gift shop

Juan Diego

• Stream and ponds next to road

Big Tree Trail

• To La Mina Falls and return
• Also joins La Mina trail which exits at Palo Colorado

Sierra Palm

Food concession
• Picnic shelters
• Restrooms

Caimitillo

Short trail
• Picnic shelters
• Restrooms

Palo Colorado Area

• 4.7 mi drive from Forest Entrance
• Gift Shop
• Ranger Tours
• Bano Grande Pond
• Trailheads: Caimitillo, La Mina, El Yunque, Bano de Oro
• Picnic shelters
• Restrooms

Gate at Road End

• .7 mi drive from Palo Colorado Area
• Hiking trail to Mt. Britton Observation Tower
• Mt. Britton trailhead from Rd 930

Access control gate at La Coca Falls opens at 7:30 AM and closes at 6:00 PM

The U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, or marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communication of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA's TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600 (voice and TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW, Washington D.C. 20250-9410 or call (202) 720-5964 (voice and TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Caribbean National Forest
HC-01, Box 13490
Rio Grande, PR 00745-9625
(787) 888-1880
www.southernregion.fs.fed.us/caribbean

Large Map of Eastern Puerto Rico (slow: 100K)
Jumbo Map of Eastern Puerto Rico (monstrously slow: 820K)