War on the Waves

Naval Wargaming Introduction

by Chris Janiec


Introduction

How many of you have ever set aside your battalions and tried your hand at Naval Wargaming? Probably not many, as miniature armies far outnumber their sea-going counterparts.

In this series of articles I will offer such information as is neccessary for a start at naval combat, including rules, information on purchasing models, and an example of a naval engagement.

This series of articles will deal with WWII combat, but the rules can be used practically without change for periods back to the Spanish-American War.

The Ships

Unlike army gamers, who variously prefer any of several common scales, most naval buffs use models in 1:1200 or 1:1250 scales (1"=100'). The dominant reason for this is that the vast majority of ships are produced in these scales. This size has many advantages, too: much smaller, and reasonably-priced models would lack detail; while larger sizes (such as the plastic kits) become all out of proportion to the playing area, unless one happens to have a carrier's flight deck handy.

Like troops, ships can be purchased either painted or unpainted. Many wargamers are satisfied with the proper shade of gray paint, while others specialize in elaborate camouflage rigs. Conversions are as common among ship fanciers as among army men. Whatever you're happy with is suitable.

Both U.S. and European manufacturers produce good, sometimes excellent models. Of course, quality differs with the manufacturer. Also, as mentioned the two scales are almost identical; the first is used by U.S. makers, the second in Europe. Before, there is the very slight size difference, but this is indeed negligible, and is unnoticeable on the gaming table.

The chief difference in where you purchase your models is price. The most inexpensive are those purchased from European retailers. Next are those produced here in America and sold here; finally are the importers of European goods. I don't deal with the latter, as their stock is the same as the former's but at considerably higher prices. However, this is strictly my opinion; I'll include one anyway.

Three of the better-known retailers are:

    Christian Schmidt KG, 6 MUnchen 55, Sauerbruchstrasse 10
    ALNAVCO, P.O. Box 3, Westfield, N.J. 07091
    Nathan R. Preston & Co., P.O. Box 187, Des Plaines, Ill.-60017

Mr. Schmidt sells the European lines. He has a very large selection, and also the lowest prices. However, his goods also take the longest to arrive. Incidentally, he also carries a large stock of books on military subjects of all types.

ALNAVCO is my personal favorite, mainly because of their speed of delivery (UPS; usually within 1 1/2 weeks). They carry an American line of models which is quite extensive, as well as books, games, etc. of naval subjects.

NRP is one of those importers, with a selection roughly equivalent to the other two combined but with sky-high prices. Again, this is only my opinion; you might send for their literature and judge for yourself,

I have heard of an Italian company called Tirazzi (?) Metals which apparently does very fine work, including several models not made by other firms, but I have no firsthand information. I will try to find out more about this company and pass it on to you.

Pricewise (again with great variation among different retailers), destroyer-type vessels run from $1-2, cruisers $2-5, battleships and carriers $5+. I suggest starting off with several destroyers and cruisers, then going on to bigger things. That way you can start out with varied battles rather than having one ship slog it out with another until one sinks.

One final note on purchasing models. There are many different manufacturers of models; I have only listed some dealers. A good idea is to buy one or two vessels from several duatur manufacturers, then decide which vou prefer. Don't got stuck with a sizable fleet only to discover you could have been getting finer-grade models.


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© Copyright 1969 by Pat Condray
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