Our first official function in Russia was a complete pleasure. We were treated with the utmost courtesy from all officials throughout our two-week visit - and we went away with many new friends.

Our group in the Russian Navy ADMIRALTY - the first time any Americans have been given such a tour, and it was all for our SHARKHUNTERS/EAGLEHUNTERS. The officer in the center of the photo at left is VADM VLADIMIR GRISHANOV (2533-1992) (photo by Bill Eby (3668-1994).

VADM VLADIMIR GRISHANOV (2533-1992) and HARRY COOPER (1-LIFE-1983) during our historic FIRST visit to the ADMIRALTY of the Russian Navy. (photo by Mike Epstein (5-LIFE-1983).

If you missed this historic visit to Russia and Ukraine, we are sorry for that - but start saving your vacation days for 1996. WE ARE GOING BACK TO RUSSIA AND UKRAINE in mid-1996! Watch your mail for full details, and join us for a truly great time in this mysterious and magnificent part of the world.

Three magnificent commemorative plates given by VADM GRISHANOV (2533-1992) to SHARKHUNTERS and EAGLEHUNTERS. On the left is PETER THE GREAT; at the top is a tribute to the 50th Anniversary of the end of World War II; on the right is the double-headed eagle of the CZAR. In the center is the FRIENDSHIP plaque given by SHARKHUNTERS and EAGLEHUNTERS to our friends in Russia and Ukraine. (photo by Mitzi Eisenscher)

When we arrived at the Russian Submarine Officer's College and the guards opened the big iron gates, we were reminded that no group but our SHARKHUNTERS could organize such a visit. We not only received a splendid tour by the Commandant (center of photo) and various instructors - but it turned out to be the Commandant's 45th birthday! So we had a special treat - a party in the Wardroom. A senior instructor is at photo left; HARRY COOPER (1-LIFE-1983) to the right. (photo by Bud Dana (245A/LIFE-1987)

At right is our group at the Submarine Officer's College. Actually, this is about 2/3 of our group - the other 1/3 were taking photos. (photo by Ernie Myette (3945-1994)

During the afternoon of 27 July, we visited the HERMITAGE, which is one of the largest art museums in the world! We aren't going to run photos as we could do a few hundred pages of photos shot in the various wings of this beautiful place.

In the evening, we enjoyed a performance of Georgian folk dancing

On 28 July, a SHARKHUNTERS/EAGLEHUNTERS FIRST - our group was received by the Vice Mayor of St. Petersburg in the City Hall of St. Petersburg. There was a band set up in the rotunda and they played old dance tunes of the war years, such as "IN THE MOOD" and "TAKE THE A TRAIN" while our veterans danced with their wives there in the rotunda of the former Marinsky Palace. Another FIRST, dancing in City Hall. (photo by Bill Eby (3668-1994)

We were given a special tour of this former palace, including the private chapel high in the tower - another FIRST for our group.

We were then brought into the City Council room for a gala in our honor - another FIRST. But here we experienced another FIRST which will live in our memories as one of the true highlights of this entire trip - as we were seated along both sides of a long table, the huge double doors opened onto the rotunda where the band had been waiting this signal - and they played the STAR SPANGLED BANNER! We were on our feet in a second, and we all sang the words to this stirring song.

Could anyone imagine just a few short years ago, that a group of Americans (and others) would be hosted by the Vice Mayor of St. Petersburg IN THE COUNCIL CHAMBERS - and that the band would play the NATIONAL ANTHEM of the UNITED STATES? No one in their wildest dreams; but SHARKHUNTERS did it.

Another First

Another FIRST for SHARKHUNTERS/EAGLEHUNTERS; we were the FIRST outsiders into the top-secret DIAMOND Shipyards. One of the vessels under construction was the world's largest Air Suspension Vessel which is capable of carrying 2 tanks and 300 to 600 fully equipped troops - at some impressive speeds! (photo by BILL EBY (3668-1994)

This is a photo of one of the huge jet turbines that power the vessel - and it is about ten stories to the top!

We were given this tour by the Deputy Director of the Shipyard and also the Chief of the Engineering Department.

In the afternoon, we toured the beautiful ST. PETER & ST. PAUL Fortress - a beautiful place. The tombs of Peter the Great, Kathryn the Great & other of the Imperial Family are there.

Photo at right is the giant MI-8 helicopter on which we toured the river section of St. Petersburg. This thing was HUGE! The fortress itself is in the background. (photo by Bud Dana (245-A/LIFE-1987)

In the evening, we attended a gala celebration in honor of the Russian Navy. This took place in a beautiful concert hall and the Man of Honor was VADM VLADIMIR GRISHANOV (2533-1992). Another SHARKHUNTERS/EAGLEHUNTERS FIRST; the first Americans to attend the Navy Celebration here. As the ceremony finished, the Admiral took a few moments to speak with us and make sure we were having a good time.

Onward in Russia

On the morning of Saturday, 29 July our deluxe motor coach took us to Fortress Kronshtadt for a meeting with the Vice Mayor; and a tour of the naval base there. One of the highlights was our visit through the Naval Museum and later, we enjoyed a fine lunch in the Officer's Assembly.

In the afternoon, we met several Soviet submarine veterans and toured submarine D-2. She was built in 1928 and saw service in World War II. We were treated to refreshments in the museum. (photo by Bud Dana (245-A/LIFE-1987)

We arrived back at our hotel in time to freshen up, change clothes - & head for TROIKA! The atmosphere was elegant; the service superb; the food exquisite - and the show was outstanding! (photo by - we ain't telling!)

Actually, the girls at TROIKA were extremely talented dancers with years of training at the world famous Kierov.

Sunday, 30 July was the big day in St. Petersburg. Our bus took us to the river where we boarded the Admiral's launch for the ride to the Flagship of the Leningrad Naval Base - the cruiser SMOLNY where we were Guests of Honor for the festivities. (all photos by Bill Eby (3668-1994)

PHOTO 1 - the cruiser SMOLNY as we approached;

PHOTO 2 - the Admiral's launch lying alongside;

PHOTO 3 - the WELCOME Committee

Some of our group aboard the cruiser SMOLNY. From the left, they are: PETE PETERSEN (1113-A-1989) of the Kriegsmarine; CAPT DAVID HINKLE (2593-LIFE-1992) of US Navy; PHIL WAITE (3011-1993) US Navy; the VICE-MAJOR of St. PETERSBURG (NEW MEMBER) and his wife beside him; Jeanette Myette; Olga Abramova. Kneeling is HARRY COOPER (1-LIFE-1983) and the little boy is the son of the Vice-Mayor. photo by Ernie Myette (3945-1994)

As we departed the cruiser SMOLNY, a couple of the crew wished us goodbye through a porthole. photo by Bill Eby (3668-1994)

Another FIRST for our SHARKHUNTERS - we were guests on board the cruiser SMOLNY, the Flagship of the Leningrad Naval Fleet - no other foreign group has had that honor AND we were then Guests of Honor in the wardroom of the ship. Of course there were toasts to many people, to friendship between countries. Our toasts were made with small cut crystal stem glasses with a broad band of gold around the rim. The Skipper of SMOLNY told us we must take our glass with us as our memory of his ship and of our time in St. Petersburg and the Leningrad Naval Base.

During our time in this truly magnificent city of St. Petersburg, we visited the massive WEAPONRY MUSEUM. It stretches perhaps 800 meters in length, is several stories tall, and has an absolutely huge collection of weapons from crossbows to nuclear missiles. (photo by Merlin Liebzeit)

LEAVING RUSSIA

We had great memories of the festivities during the Naval Celebration - rowing races; yacht sail-bys; demonstrations by Russian SPETZNATZ paratroopers; water skiing teams; an aerobatic demonstration by a group of outstanding pilots - and one absolutely AWESOME pilot! But this was the day of farewell to beautiful St. Petersburg, as we depart for Ukraine next morning. The Vice Mayor (4425-1995) of Kronshtadt has invited us back, and the Vice Mayor (4401-1995) of St. Petersburg has assured us that the red carpet will be rolled out for SHARKHUNTERS and EAGLEHUNTERS when we return in 1996. Oops; is this a preview of coming attractions? Yep - watch your mailbox. (photo by Bill Eby (3668-1994)

PACK YOUR OWN CHUTE & your own lunch- that's what some had told us about flying AEROFLOT but that just was not the case. We flew a new wide-body ILLUSHYN IL-86. There was plenty of room on this monstrous two-decker plane, and the flight from St. Petersburg Russia to Simpheropol Ukraine was smooth.

OLGA the AWESOME got us through Customs & Immigration in a flash and we were quickly aboard our next deluxe motor coach.

Ukraine

We enjoyed a pleasant bus ride through the beautiful Crimean mountains, we arrived at our 4-Star hotel in Yalta. As we got off the bus, a group of singers, in authentic Ukrainian dress, sang traditional songs for us.

After checking in and cleaning up, we had dinner than enjoyed an evening at leisure. Many walked along the boardwalk at the shore of the Black Sea directly outside our hotel. There were food vendors, souvenir stands, places to have your photo taken - even an American-style bumper car ride.

In the morning (1 August, Tuesday) we rode to the beautiful Palace Livadia which originally was the winter palace of some Russian nobleman but whose place in history was carved out in early 1945 when Franklin Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Josef Stalin met here to carve up Europe. The photo above is our group (most of us) outside the palace. (both photos by Bud Dana (245-A/LIFE-1987)

After dinner that evening, we enjoyed a wine tasting in a lounge set aside just for us and we were treated to an evening of Ukrainian folk singing and dancing. Some of our group had birthdays around this day as well as a couple wedding anniversaries, and they were all celebrated with Ukranian singing and dancing. (both photos by Bud Dana (245-A/LIFE-1987)

Balaklava

Wednesday, 2 August - we went to Balaklava, site of the famous although disastrous 'Charge of the Light Brigade'. We stood on the hill where the British 4th redoubt was placed in that battle. The Italian gunners employed by the British to man these cannon had fled in the face of the advancing Russian troops so the British guns were in the hands of Russian gunners. The same was true for the 3rd British redoubt on the facing hill a few hundred yards away - across the Valley of Death.

The British Light Cavalry had no way to know that the British cannon on both sides of them were in the hands of the enemy - until they madly dashed into the valley in pursuit of Russian cavalry who were pretending a retreat to draw the British cavalry after them.

The Russian maneuver worked. Of the 700 British Light Cavalry who charged into the Valley of Death; 500 were killed outright and the other 200 were wounded to one degree or another. What made this such a devastating blow to the British was that the Light Cavalry was made up of the sons of the nobility and their function generally was to perform in parades in London. It was Lord Raglan who insisted the Light Cavalry go to the Crimea - it was probably an Election year - but the blame for the disaster fell upon the Area Commander, the Earl of Cardigan. I am not making these names up. The names of Raglan and Cardigan as applied to clothing did indeed get their start from these two men. Big deal, right?

Some of our people found small pieces of metal on the hill which probably came from that battle. We also drove through the Valley of Death on our bus, on the way to the Naval Base at Balaklava.

Wednesday, 2 August we departed Yalta and drove through the beautiful Crimean mountains to Sevastopol where we find the famed Black Sea Fleet. Sevastopol is a closed city - it is impossible to even enter the city without permission. We arrived at the Hotel Sevastopol, which is actually quarters for visiting officers. We had time to walk through this pretty city, then we had a meeting with Soviet submarine veterans - one rode C-13 under Marinesko.

Thursday, 3 August - we visited the impressive Panorama of the Battle of the Crimean War; then on to the Naval Museum.

A small group (4 of us) went back to Balaklava to recon the secret entrance into the face of the cliff, where the Black Sea submarines made their base. A complete submarine base is inside the mountain.

We arrived back in Sevastopol for the boat tour of the military harbor and then to the FOX TROT Class submarine for an on board tour. This was the FIRST TIME any outside group like ours has been allowed to tour aboard one of these boats.

Then we took the boat back to the cruiser KERTSCH, Flagship of the Black Sea Fleet and we enjoyed a gala celebration in our honor.

Again, the FIRST TIME any outside group like ours has toured this naval harbor and were celebrated on board the Flagship. There were no restrictions on photography. Photo is the Skipper of KERTSCH; HARRY COOPER (1-LIFE-1983); CHIEF BOB THOMPSON (4214-1995) photo by ANNA ABRAMOVA (4392-1995) (photo by Bud Dana (245-A/LIFE-1987)

During the Gala Celebration, gifts were exchanged in the Officer's Wardroom aboard KERTSCH. Above is the C.O. of the ASW Flotilla (4400-1995) and HARRY COOPER (1-LIFE-1983).

When dinner was finished, the ship's band from KERTSCH set up on deck and played for us until it was time to return to the hotel. We did not go to our rooms however, as the Skipper of KERTSCH had reserved the main room in the hotel and the dancing and fellowship continued well into the night. (photo by Bill Eby (3668-1994)

4 August, Friday we went as a group to look at the formerly secret entrance for the Black Sea Fleet subs to go into the bunker system built into the mountain. We were told that we could take all the photos we wanted, but that we were honor-bound not to publish any of them. Sorry, you'll just have to use your imagination for the entrance - or you can go with us in 1996 when we will actually go INSIDE this secret complex! Details coming soon.

UKRAINE FAREWELL, BACK TO RUSSIA

After the visit to the secret entrance to the submarine pens in the Crimean mountains, our bus took us to the airport at Simpheropol where we said goodbye to Ukraine and departed on a modern Crimean Airlines Tupelov TU-154M (similar to a Boeing 727) for our short flight to Moscow - back into Russia.

Saturday, 5 August and we are back in Russia - this time in Moscow. We visit one of the WORLD'S LARGEST Aviation Museums - Monino. It is some 50 kilometers square with many runways, many bases and many schools. We visited the YURI GARGARIN School, where Majors and above are trained to be Squadron Leaders and Wing Leaders. (photo by Bud Dana (245-A/LIFE-1987)

Our tour guide was the Curator of this Museum, and we saw hundreds of aircraft, including US-built planes like C-47 cargo planes and P-63 KING COBRA fighters; some knock-offs of B-29 SUPERFORTRESS as well as SST passenger liners; supersonic bombers (photo above) and a gigantic bomber that was designed to fly all the way from Moscow to New York and return without in-air refueling. There were Russian fighters, helicopters, bombers - old planes and new ones. Photos were allowed - AND encouraged.

Sunday, 6 August and we are at the WORLD'S LARGEST Armor Museum - Kubinka. Our guide was a retired tanker Colonel, but as a young enlisted man - he participated in the Battle of Kursk. This museum has dozens upon dozens of hangars, filled with armor of every nation from the time when the first armored vehicles came upon the scene up to the world's most modern tanks. The pride of this museum is the giant 162-ton German MAUS; the only one in the world.

Our group was treated to a ride on a T-34 battle tank; the mainstay of Russian armor in World War II. This photo was taken by a veteran of the US Army tanks in World War II. (photo by Merlin Liebzeit (New member)

RUSSIA FAREWELL

All too soon, our two weeks were at an end and we had to leave Russia. During our stay in Moscow, we also attended the famed MOSCOW CIRCUS; toured the KREMLIN grounds and churches; walked RED SQUARE and shopped a giant FLEA MARKET. Many of our group are veterans and they wore their uniforms, like CHIEF BOB THOMPSON (4214-1995) and PHIL WAITE (3011-1993). They looked great, and all were a credit to the United States military! (photo by BUD DANA (245-A/LIFE-1987)

Did You Miss This Historic Visit to RUSSIA & UKRAINE?

Here are three remedies for those who were not with us.

1. You may purchase TAPE H-31. This is a one-hour professional videotape of St Petersburg the palaces, museums, the splendor and grandeur of the most magnificent city on earth. This was not shot during our SHARKHUNTERS tour, but we visited these same places. TAPE H-31 ST. PETERSBURG $15 (plus $5 S & H)

2. You may purchase TAPE H-32, the EIGHT-HOUR tape of our 1995 visit to all the places in Russia and Ukraine that you have read about here in KTB #115. This WAS shot entirely during our visit over the summer of 1995 and everything you have read about is on this tape. TAPE H-32 RUSSIA/UKRAINE $30 (plus $5 S & H)

3. This is the BEST option - come with us as we return to these same countries; to these same places- AND MORE great places in the former Soviet Union. Plan to be with us from 19 July to 2 August in 1996 for a visit into history!