Growing out of an excavation in the center of the city, the Jorvik Viking Centre has turned into quite an attraction. Friends we spoke to talk of lines stretching around the block. As it turns out, we walked right in, paid the admission fee and walked down the stairs to the waiting "time cars."

We didn't quite know what a "time car" was, so--before we paid the admission--we asked the person who sells the tickets the definition of a time car. We had heard of the Jorvik Viking Centre on this side of the pond, and none of the references coincided with the word "time car."

Basically, as we understood the ticket taker, you sit in some sort of cart and get taken through the excavation. So we asked if you only sat in the car, or if you walk around. And the reply was both. Well, we didn't come all the way to York to miss the world-renown Centre, and so we bought the tickets ( £ 4.95 per adult) and walked down the stairs to what I would call a "Disneyland-style" ride that whisks you through the excavation.

Backwards

The time cars are indeed small battery-powered carts that follow a track through the Centre. You sit in one and each contains a "multi-lingual commentary system" that narrates as you go along. Our first surprise is that they go backwards, something that seems a bit, well, off. Remember, we had no idea what to expect. I mean, you don't want to go through the excavation backwards.

In any case, you do not go exactly backwards all the time--the cars are starting off going backwards because you're going back in time. Get it? Good, because they eventually turn around as they get to a reconstructed Viking village, circa 10th century, akin to a giant wax museum.

I say village, for that is what it looks like, but it fact, Jorvik (what the Vikings named York after capturing the city in 866AD) was a fairly large city of 10,000 to 15,000 by 1066.

In 1976, excavations started on the site of an old candy factory in preparation for a new shopping centre. It was then the Viking ruins were discovered and the massive excavation, stabilization, and preservation began. The Jorvik Viking Centre opened in 1984.

Village

But if all you see is a wax museum, you miss a large point, for the Centre pumps the sounds and smells--and stinks--all around you while a narrator explains the setting of a working village. The technological explanation is that the odors of Viking life are produced by oils in evaporators. No doubt everyone should enjoy the "eau de cesspit" stink.

The sounds come from 100 speakers hidden in and around the areas, pumping out digitally recorded sounds, as well as Old English, Old Norse, and the 10th century hybrid dialect.

The staff has done a marvelous job in reconstructing the setting, from the huts and streets to the clothing and tools worn by the mannikans. There's a ship that just put in, fish that need gutting, taunting children, weaving linen, and more. My head was swiveling left and right as I attempted to take in the multitude of detail that flashed before my eyes.

You see, the time cars go relentlessly forward. It is not a fast ride, indeed, more like a saunter than a ride. But inexorably forward you travel, past a wonderful setting. And this is a bit of a disappointment--I'm from the old school in that I want to take as much or as little time looking at exhibits. If I'm on this car, I can't get out and walk around, peer into the nooks and crannies that undoubtedly hold even more marvelous details that separate the good exhibits from the great.

Well, I probably could get out, but no doubt the security would be after me. And they dress like Vikings and carry big swords. OK, that's an exaggeration, because I'm sure security does not dress in period garb, but some fellows do patrol around the Centre in costume, and it is all on closed circuit TV.

Alas, you are stuck in the car, and so the scene whisks by all too fast. Now, for children with 15-second attention spans, this may be fine, but for me, with at least a 30-second attention span, it is all too quick.

The next area you pass through is a look at a reconstruction of the excavation site, complete with the remains of original Viking timber walls. Pretty interesting, but whooosh, you missed it. Fortunately, they finally let you out of the time cars into a single-room museum showing the artifacts in proper displays. And there is ample text to explain the various bits and pieces recovered.

Coppergate Helm

Probably the greatest find was a complete helmet in reasonably pristine condition. They had to reconstruct some bits and pieces, and it's not really a Viking helm but an Anglo-Saxon one made between 775 and 800 AD. Close enough--speculation is that it was lost as a result of a Viking attack circa 866, carefully buried in a wood-lined pit. It is made of iron and brass with crossed ridges, cheek plates, and a nose piece.

However, the "Coppergate" helm is not in the Jorvik centre, but in the local museum. Go figure. Instead, the Jorvik Viking Centre has a hologram of the helmet--real cool. This is one of the best parts of the museum, although there are so many best parts, it is hard to single out a single item.

Coppergate was the commercial section of the city. And so many of the streets are named "--gate" because "gate" is the Viking word for "street." So the guidebook says.

Another nifty "touch" is a wall of the various strata and what was found in them, and you are encouraged to run your hands over the various items embedded within. Good idea.

The "lab" was another cool idea, to give you an idea of what conservators do to process finds from the excavation. Although the helm was an extraordinary find, most objects are the ordinary bric-a-brac of everyday life, and often far from intact. Archeology is more Sherlock Holmes than Indiana Jones.

Boardgame

In the display cases was a boardgame called hnefatafl. The hnefi, or king, tries to escape from center to corner helped by pieces of his own color. The other player opposes such a winning idea while trying to do the same. Pieces were made out of antler and chalk, some pieces were colored red, bone dice, some walrus ivory playing pieces, a hollow checker of some sort, and a Walrus ivory six-sided die that used to be square.

The whole time car trip takes about 15 minutes or so. Through the one-room museum takes another 15 minutes to half hour, depending on how closely you want to wander through the room. Then it's up and out past the gift shop.

There are supposed to be costumed folks working the crowds, but with no crowds, no costumed folks--although we did see one at the end by the gift shop.

One of things we bought was a booklet, simply titled "Jorvik Viking Centre," explaining the Centre's operations and providing pictures and explanations of the reconstructed village.

After having viewed the Jorvik Viking Centre, I can say that the amount of effort that went into the preservation is impressive. Very impressive. And the lengths they went through to recreate the "village" will amaze you, not to mention the archeology lab. If there is one criticism and disappointment, it is the time-car concept. I really would have liked to tarry a bit and given everything the good look over rather than being whisked by in a blur. No matter how slow the speed of the car, it still moves, and that detracts from an otherwise exceptional exhibit.

Directions

The Jorvik Viking Centre is close to the centre of York in a pedestrian-only section. The train station (or associated car park) is a short 10-15 minutes leisurely walk. Other car park distances vary, but since you can walk across York in about 10 minutes, it is not a strenuous distance.

Opening Times

4 April - 2 November: 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. 3 Nov - 3 April: 9:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Viking Festival (February) 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day Reservations and Group Bookings accepted. Admission

4.95 Pounds sterling adults. 3.50 Pounds sterling children 5-15 yrs old. Free children under 5. 4.60 Pounds sterling senior/students.

Jorvik Viking Centre Coppergate York YO1 1NT ph: 1904 653000 fax: 1904 627097 web: www.demon.co.uk/tourism/jvc