Today is 30 November and it is a very sunny day with nary a cloud in the sky. The temperature is still cool in Charlestown, although the forecast calls for warmer temperatures in Kentucky (about 55F). It is a good day for touring battlefields! It took about four hours to reach Perryville via Interstate 64 (Purple Heart Trail) and Routes 127 and 150. I stopped at the Kentucky State Information centre to collect brochures on Perryville and Daniel Boone. I was also given a copy of “Kentucky’s Civil War 1860-1865” an annual publication ($5) featuring articles and information on ACW activities and modern events. The Daniel Boone information was collected for a future trip and touring of the sites connected with this famous frontiersman.

The park was easy to locate as it is on the west side of town off #150 (turn right along the battlefield road and drive to the park entrance). Unfortunately, I had not read the fine print in the colourful Danville-Perryville brochure, which stated the park was open April to October and by appointment only during the off-season. Undaunted I began my tour behind the Confederate lines near the park entrance. I followed the paved road into the park and located the museum (very closed) and the monuments to the CS and US casualties. I picked-up a pamphlet for the walking tour at the museum entrance.

This informed me that the park is divided into two parts: the first covers the main points of the CSright and USleft; and the second covers the US right and the CS left. Each part requires about an hour by foot to complete. The total trail is about five miles with 26 signs (not all are in place yet, and more will be added for a total of 30). Most of the trails are of mown grass, and the roads are asphalt and gravel.

The park is maintained by the Perryville Battlefield Preservation Association (many of the local sponsors are listed at the main entrance) and it is a state historic site. The park encompasses over 280 acres bordered by Battlefield Road (Ky #1920), Doctor’s Creek, the old Mackville Pike and the old Benton Road. This is basically the ground disputed by US General A McD McCook’s 1 st Corps and CS General L Polk’s corps. The territory across which other CS and US troops manoeuvred is private property, although it is possible to see much of this by following the local road network. I was not the only one in the park as there were three other vehicles parked near the museum. I counted five people and one dog.

The first circuit was followed and this covered the attacks of Maney’s, Stewart’s and Donelson’s CS brigades of CS General BF Cheatham’s division (of Polk’s corps), the initial position of Terrill’s US brigade and Parsons’ artillery battery (eight guns), Starkweather’s Hill and the cornfield, and the final positions of the two opponent’s near the intersection of Hayes-May (Old Mackville Pike) Rd. and Whites (Old Dixville-Benton) Rd.

At this point, I followed the second circuit behind the US lines to the Bottom Farm near Doctor’s Creek up along the high ground occupied by Lyttle’s US brigade and down to the museum again.

There was a picture of the relative heights of Starkweather’s, Parsons’ and Maney’s Hills on one of the plaques near Parsons’ Hill. Surprisingly, there was little difference as each was almost as tall as the next. The cornfield between the first hills mentioned was quite low by comparison and it was clear to me why it was a hazardous place to make a stand. The CS troops on Parsons’ Hill could have easily swept the field with plunging fire. I have just two regrets about this tour:

1. I did not see the museum and collect souvenirs; and
2. My video camera did not record much of the tour, for reasons that escaped me at the time.

Just two more reasons to return to Kentucky!

HP Bottom, owner of the house at the Mackville Road bridge over Doctor’s Creek, had to organise a civilian operation to bury the CS dead and tend to the wounded, who were left behind by the retreating CS troops (a common practice during the war when a hasty departure was required). Bottom also suffered significant loss as the troops consumed most of his produce, wood and other items. That year, his family had to procure food from other farms for the first time!

Of note, I saw plenty of full water holes plus water in all the local waterways (Chaplin River, Doctor’s Creek and Donelson’s Creek). These were all dry during the battle. From the battlefield, I drove to Danville along #150 and then towards London with the last few miles on Interstate 75. I stopped in London for the night and tried to reorganise all my possessions. I had been leaving things scattered about the jeep and it was time to put everything in its proper place.