I have had the good fortune to visit the battlefield around Waterloo twice to date. The first tour (21 March, 1993) included visits to the surrounding towns and locations that were integral parts of the fighting such Quatre Bras, Ligny and Wavre. The second (4 March 1995) was devoted to a walking tour of the battlefield and the museums in close proximity to the preserved area of the battlefield.

The first trip was made by car from Germany, which allowed for visit to the many sites covered by the Battle of the Bulge, 1944-45. That is another article. Our approach allowed my friend and I to visit many of the outlying areas that witnessed the initial battles at Ligny, Quatre Bras as well as the action around Wavre. We found a nice hotel in Nivelles and enjoyed Belgian seafood and beer for dinner.

On the morrow, we went to Waterloo to purchase tickets to the many museums and attractions. I recommend getting the all-in-one ticket, as it is cheaper than paying at each location, even if you miss one or two. The cost of this tour was 370 Belgian Francs and of the second tour 385 Belgian Francs.

The first tour covered Waxworks Museum, Wellington’s Headquarters, Visitor’s Centre, Lion Mound, and the Panorama of the Battle, which is a painting depicting one of the massed charges of the French cavalry. On the second tour, I visited Napoleon’s Headquarters instead of Wellington’s Headquarters plus the other sites covered above.

Tickets are purchased at the Visitor’s Centre which has a book and souvenir shop, a ten square metre diorama of the battlefield with sound and projected slides, and a movie theatre in which to watch a short film about the battlefield that combines modern action with footage of the movie "Waterloo".

Next one can walk over to the Lion built on the site where the Prince of Orange was believed to have been wounded. Climb to the top of the 226 for a panoramic view of the battlefield. This is a good spot for both still and video cameras. On a clear day, you can see most of the main locations encompassed by the battle.

At the foot of the Lion is the immense panorama of the French cavalry charge. The painting measures 110 metres by 12 metres in a complete circle. Music is piped into the building by a quadraphonic sound system.

The last stop is the wax museum created in 1949 and has displays of the famous leaders, common soldiers with historic backgrounds. The museum also houses original objects and documents.

On the right flank of the battle park is the private farm of Hougoumont (or simply Goumont). Visitors can wander around the buildings, but the farm itself is a private home with no access unless a previously arranged appointment. It is still possible to see battle damage on the exterior of the farm buildings and walk through the surrounding fields, although the woods is gone. On my first tour, there were several ultra-lights flying over the area for the bird’s-eye view of the ground.

The walk between Hougoumont and the Visitor’s Centre does allow a look at the reverse slope positions held by the Anglo-Dutch army, although much of the ground lies under the modern highway from Brussels. The distance between the two points is about one kilometre. Along the way back to the Visitor’s Centre, you pass through the area of the main French cavalry attacks and the assault of the Imperial Guard.

On the far side of the Visitor’s Centre are several monuments (Belgian, Hanoverian and Gordon) and Wellington’s Tree under which he directed the battle. This is near the intersection of the park road, which follows the general front of the Allied Army and the N5, which was the main road for the Allied retreat and the French advance. Be warned this is a busy road. It leads down to La Haye Saint, Napoleon’s Headquarters and La Belle Alliance. Visitors can continue along the minor road towards Papelotte or head down to La Haye Sainte.

La Haye Sainte was rebuilt after the battle and today looks very much as it did during the battle. This is a private farm like Hougoumont and only the exterior can be viewed, although the interior can be seen through an opening near the farm gate located facing the main road. During my second tour, I walked down to Napoleon’s Headquarters, which is located in a former farm house in Vieux Genappe. This has many exhibits concerning the French army during the campaign.

Walking back to Wellington’s Tree and Mont St. Jean, visitors have a good view of where the French grand battery was positioned and the ground upon which the French army deployed for battle. On the right was D’Erlon’s First Corps and across the main road was Reille’s Second Corps. Looking backward, it is possible to see where the Imperial Guard was stationed and the village of Plancenoit through which the Prussian assaulted to take the French on their right flank. In order to return to Mont St. Jean, visitors cross from the French held ridge through the valley separating the two armies and then back up to the Allied positions.

Regaining the park road, visitors can then turn to continue along the left wing of the Allied army to Papelotte, Smohain (La Marache), and the ruins of Frichermont. Much of this area is low lying in a shallow valley.

Further back from the Allied centre is the Mont St Jean Farm, which was the main hospital for the Allies. Beyond this location, is Waterloo and the inn now known as Wellington’s Headquarters. It is a good starting point for touring the Allied positions and has many exhibits of the various Allied contingents.

While I did most of my touring of the battlefield in one day, there is enough to see that can be covered in two or three days, particularly if visitors want to see Quartre Bras, Wavre and Ligny. Since much of the region remains unchanged, it is easy to tour by foot or car equipped with detailed maps and a good guidebook.