Painting Tips

By Jay Wirth


The best brush -or- the most controversial thing I've ever stated that didn't get a big response.

To paint miniatures and get the best results, you must start with the proper tools. It is also important to point out though you won't need to spend a fortune, you should buy the best quality possible to assure long life and joy (Zen) in painting.

A quality brush that holds a fine point is desired. Brushes come in a variety of shapes, sizes and material (natural and synthetic). When starting in the hobby of painting miniatures begin with two sizes. A size 1 pointed round, and a size 05 pointed round. The 1 will suffice for most duties, painting large areas, dryburshing, and when in good condition fine detail such as stripes and letters.

The 05, a much smaller brush will be mainly for details, eyes, backlining, etc.

Brushes are made of different materials. Natural:Kolinsky sable (Siberian mink), red sable (from any member of the weasel family), ox (from ears of cattle and oxen), sabaline (ox hair dyed to resemble red sable), camel (not camel hair at all but it is a blend of other hairs for desired firmness), squirrel (a fine thin hair taken from the tail), pony hair (soft but strong) and hog bristle (obtained from hogs throughout the world). Synthetic: Red/white nylon.


Useless info: Human hair makes the best
fishing jigs, as it "floats" better than an animal's
but is more difficult to use as it is round
and does not "lock" together when being tied.

Red Sable is the Mercedes of brushes, but is the worst for miniatures. I'll say it again... Red Sable is the worst for miniatures. White nylon is by far the best. The cost is a bit easier on the pocket book compared to Red Sable. This is only a small reason for White Nylon being best. The synthetic bristles of the White Nylon stand up to the punishment of paining miniatures.

Red Sable will not last due to the "poking" motion of painting miniatures. It has also been found that they are better suited when using acrylics because the synthetic filament will withstand the caustic nature of acrylic paints with less damage.

The other natural brushes listed are a much lower quality. Their use would be by personal preference or task at hand only.

As you become more experienced try other brushes of size, shape and material. You will find that for most painting applications you will stick with a few tried and true sizes. Traditionally, manufacturers have provided artists with two Iengths of brush handles: Short (5-7"), and long (8-11"). For miniature painting short handles are desired as they are made for holding the brush close to the tip (ferrule).


Useless info: The ferrule is a metal tube designed
for the basic size and shape of the brush.
It connects thebrush filling with the handle
being glued and crimped. metal ferrules aree
either copper, brass, or aluminum, with brass
being the strongest. Seamless ferrules are the best quality.

On My Table

I have: Armory White Nylon Brushes, Sizes:

  • Flat (for drybrushing white over black prime)
  • #1 (new, general painting)
  • #1 (old, for drybrushing & washes)
  • #1 (very old, for washes & abuse)
  • 5/0 (new, for details)

Remember to take care of your tools. Brushes require cleaning after use. Never! Leave a brush standing on its bristles in a cup. Keep the brush collars on your brushes when being stored.

A last tip (in my case an old habit) I lick the brush once clean (I also do this when painting to :sharpen" the point and/or moisten the paint, by placing the bristles on my tongue and pulling it through my tongue and upper lip. I have found that this sharpens the point and will dry stiff keeping the brush in the perfect shape for next time.


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© Copyright 1997 by John Jay Wirth
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