Over the years I have built several kits that have been used for purposes ranging from displays to articles used in wargames. Aircraft have always been a personal favorite and with the release of Lion's Den Wargames' version of World War II aerial combat rules, the opportunity to expand my collection of aircraft for that era was too great to pass up. So, with that in mind, I decided to write this article to lend my knowledge in the construction and use of aircraft kits in this truly fantastic game.
In order to start on your kit there is one thing to remember: kit will be used outdoors over a large area with other players moving around it. Sturdiness is the key word here. Liberal amounts of glue should be used in the construction process, as well as putty to fill in any cracks or defects that might occur.
I will be the first to admit that a well-constructed kit is beautiful to look at, but it must be kept in mind that attention to details such as aerials, vent tubes, radio wires, and even gun barrels are prone to breakage. The emphasis here is not to delete these items on purpose, but rather focus on different areas of constructing your kit. I have found that the best place to focus my attentions are in the areas of researching the combat units and decorating the aircraft according to that research.
CONSTRUCTION
Once you have decided on which aircraft you would like to build, there are a couple of items that you will need to purchase along with the kit. One item is 6/16" O.D. plastic tubing cut into a 2" length. This is used to anchor the aircraft to the position stake for game play. The other item is a sheet of thick mil acetate. Acetate is used to simulate the rotation of the prop (if the aircraft has one), and should be cut in a circle corresponding to the diameter of the prop itself.Follow the directions in constructing your kit. There are no special instructions here other than the fact that the aircraft is supposed to be airborne, so unless you build a JU-87 Stuka or a similar aircraft with fixed landing gear, the wheels should be in the up position. Also, if you decide to attach bombs or external fuel tanks, keep in mind that you will be inserting the tube stand in the undercarriage, so model around this accordingly.
The best technique I have found is to build the aircraft completely, but omit the canopy and props. By constructing it in this manner, you can then paint the aircraft without the risk of paint ending up on these items. I will cover the installation of these items later in this article.
If you want the cockpit of your plane to be detailed, then I suggest that you do so before you assemble the fuselage but, as I mentioned earlier, that is a matter of personal taste. With the pilot installed before the painting process however, you get the added benefit of a good primer coat on the interior which makes the paint easier to apply.
Once you have let the glue set on your aircraft it is time to install the tube stand. You will need a 3/16" or 1/8" drill bit for a pilot hole (I prefer the 1/8" bit) and a 1/4" bit to finish the drill process. The key element of this process is locating a spot to install the tube. Ultimately the tube should be centered under the wing, but care should be taken in order that you don't place it in the pilot's lap. Once you have decided on a location, drill a pilot hole using your small bit (a Dremel tool is very handy in this process). Take caution in drilling to avoid boring a hole in the top of your fuselage. After the pilot hole has been drilled, take the 1/4" bit and finish the hole out to the proper size. It would be beneficial to the drilling process if you handle this procedure by grabbing the 1/4" bit in your fingers and drill by hand. Even though the 1/4" hole is slightly smaller than the tube, it gives a tighter fit and you can adjust the fit with an X-Acto Knife if need be.
Take the tube and bevel the top. Once this is done, trial fit the tube in the hole. Check the path of the tube to make sure that it will not come into contact with anything that would keep it from becoming centered. If the tube will push in without much resistance, pull it out and apply a bead of Super-Glue around the top. Slide the tube back in until it's positioned where you want and then seal the point where the bottom of the aircraft and the tube meet with another bead of Super-Glue. If the tube will not slide in comfortably, use your knife and carefully shave off material until the tube fits the way you want. That is all there is to it and now you're ready to paint.
PAINTING
When picking colors for your aircraft keep in mind the technique with which you plan to finish the kit. Often you can find paint in spray cans that match the colors you desire which allow you to cover the aircraft with a base coat and then you can come back and detail it later. If you're not sure about a certain color, consult the assembly directions for paint tips. Also, there are several books on the market that detail color schemes on aircraft or just ask someone at the hobby store.
Whatever technique you choose to finish your kit is strictly personal taste. Airbrushing is an excellent way to achieve blends if the paint scheme requires it, however the same effect can be attained with good brush work. Remember that the level of detail is up to you, so any additional detailing, such as paint chipped away showing metal on the wings and fuselage or smoke from the exhaust only adds to the realism.
Once the aircraft has been painted and dried completely, I spray a coat of Testor's GlossCote on the entire kit. This furnishes a smooth surface on which the decals can adhere. Follow the kit instructions on decal placement and application. Once the decals have set, spray on a sealer coat of GlossCote or DullCote, depending on the type of finish you're trying to attain.
FINISHING YOUR AIRCRAFT
After the sealer coat has dried (preferably overnight), it is time to install the canopy and prop spinner. You will need the required pieces from the kit plus a circle cut from a sheet of clear acetate that matches the diameter of the aircraft's propeller. There are several ways to cut out the acetate circle, such as scissors, but I prefer using a compass. By scribing the outside with the point of a compass several times, you can "cut" the circle out and it leaves a center point so you can attach it to the spinner.
After the circle, or "props", have been cut out, bend it in order to crease the plastic. This gives the illusion of the prop blades spinning at full throttle! Care must be taken in order that the plastic is not bent to the point of breakage and that the "blades" are aligned with the center.
Mounting the props to the spinner depends on the type of spinner. If the spinner is in two pieces just Super-glue the props between them. A solid spinner takes a little more time. Remove the blades and cut a hole in the acetate to match the diameter of the spinner where blades were attached. Next glue the props to the spinner. As a side note here, I suggest that you take an X-Acto knife and scrape off any paint that might be on the surfaces to be glued. This will also be a good idea when you glue the canopy into place.
That's all there is to it! You are ready to hit the skies and engage the enemy in heartstopping dogfights. I hope this article is of some help and remember to have fun building your kit.
Jon M. Haworth is a contributing writer to the Penny Whistle and is the creator of the aerial combat system, FIGHTER COMMAND, Lion's Den Wargames © 1994.
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