These are my personal Top Four Reasons for making these Napoleonic Journeys: 1. To meet old and new friends. 2. To see the beautiful countryside. Europeans have a much more careful relationship to the actual world. 3. Food and Wine. Europeans and especially Italians take the time to savor food and friendship at long and elaborate meals. 4. Then there is something about Napoleon too! I asked this year's participants to send me their memories of the journey and, so far, I have received these two wonderful accounts. From: Nicola Contardi My memories. What can I tell you Kevin, which you already don't know? I don't remember any particular facts but I have images and emotions from them. We ran up the hill of the Castle of Brescia and we nearly died. We saw the sunset over the bridge of Lodi and I have never seen it so beutiful. We looked at the Pianura Padana from the tower of S. Martino and I really didn't know what was Italy before. I remember Peter with his excited and light speech telling us about facts of decades ago, and I could see in the valley the sun reflecting on the armours of the French cavalry. I see faces. And smiles. Friendship and love. Kevin, do you want to know from me what is Life ? From Rich Filippi with help from Joe Willette In May of 1800, Napoleon began his Italian campaign by converging on Milan by several routes; so too did we converge on Milan to begin another memorable campaign with Kevin 'il capo' Zucker. Nicola Contardi, our Italian host and translator, made many of our appointments with local historians and met us at the airport in our tour van. Joe Willette, who is an engineer for the Navy, loaned his experience in writing test plans to the editing of OSG's Bonaparte in Italy. Joe's wife Jenny, a child psychologist, shares Joe's passion for gaming. Peter Hazell, an exporter of Fruit and Nuts from California, often seen tamping his meerschaum and taking a few calm puffs and walking with Rich Filippi, a Florida Investment Advisor. We came from diverse backgrounds brought together by a common interest. Our first night in Milan was spent at the historic Antica Locanda Solferino, named after a famous 1859 battle for Italian unification. It was in Milan that the group first met and got to know each other over a fine Italian meal and several bottles of wine. Milan is a very historic city and we explored some of its sites before setting off on our own campaign. July 26: Wheels up and out by eight in the morning. This began a familiar routine of adventurous days and lively evenings. First stop Pavia, where Austrian Gen. Sebottendorf unsuccessfully defended the town against Augereau. Then to Belgiojoso, where Beaulieu tried to rally his dispersed Austrians. After a quick lunch stop for panne (ham/cheese sandwich) and espresso we drove on to Marengo, where on June 14, 1800, Napoleon defeated the Austrian army under FM Melas. There is a great museum there dedicated to the battle and a large reenactment was conducted on the battle's 200th anniversary this past June. We continued on into plowed fields and trickling streams, walking the battle site. South of where the Consular Guard formed square to draw off advancing Austrian cavalry, we came to a walled farmhouse, near Villanova, where General Desaix was reportedly shot. We stopped and approached the gate. The owner, a very youthful-seeming elder woman and her husband came out to meet us. She spoke wonderful English and confirmed that this farm was indeed the one we saw on our battlefield maps. She took us on a tour of her home, to include the cellar that was used to house the wounded after the battle. After drinks we thanked her for her kindness and were on our way to Verduno and our hotel. The Albergo Real Castello is an old hunting lodge turned hotel. The royal family of Piedmonte used it for many years. It is an enchanted place to spend a week or a weekend with a loved one. We had a great meal at the hotel's restaurant and talked until 3 a.m. This set the pattern for the rest of the trip: Up, quick breakfast and out by 8 a.m.; mid-day stop for espresso and panne; out until 8:00-8:30; dinner not before 9:00 p.m. and to bed between 1:30-3:30 a.m. You can always sleep on plane trip back to the states. July 27: We met Don Scaglione, parish priest of Dego. He took us on a brief tour of the Monastery of Santo Stefano (11th century) and we met two dozen locals dressed, just for our visit, in period costumes from the 10th through 12th centuries. At a reception over wine they explained their historical characters and their costumes. It was very cool. Don Scaglione then took us on a walking tour of the Dego battlefield sites. Retired Italian Lt. Gen. Luciano Palandri accompanied our group and added some military anecdotes. We walked through thickets, up hill to the mountain peak where Napoleon watched over the course of the battle on the 12th of April. When we returned the owner of the property invited us in for pastries, including a memorable home-made linzer torte, and more wine. After a quick lunch stop at Carcare we meet Professor Leonello Oliveri who guided us through the battle sites at Montenotte, Cosseria and Carcare. In 1796, Napoleon's plan was to drive a wedge between the Austrians and their Piedmontese allies. Once divided he intended to defeat them in detail. On April 12, 1796, Napoleon attacked the Austrians at Montenotte and after a sharp fight took the town. Climbing the broken terrain around Cosseria, we explored the ruined castle of Cosseria, which dominated the surrounding valley. On April 13, 1796, General Provera with 1,000 handpicked Piedmontese troops successfully withstood repeated attacks by General Augereau. The French suffered hundreds of casualties, including the wounding of Gen. Joubert. After climbing to the top of this precipice it was easy to understand why the French had such a hard time of it. The French took the heights the next day, but only after Provera's troops ran out of ammunition, water and food. Professor Oliveri showed us some Napoleonic artifacts he had collected on the battlefield including musket and cannon balls, musket-firing mechanisms, bayonets and canteen parts. Next time, I will bring a metal detector. We bid Professor Oliveri adieu and drove on to Dego. The battle of Dego (13-17 April 96) represented Napoleon's first real test as a field commander. In a series of sharp actions Napoleon defeated Gen. Argenteau and occupied Dego with Massena's troops. Austrian Gen. Vukassovich later counterattacked and retook the town. Despite this success, Austrian Commander FM Beaulieu continued to withdraw eastward toward Alessandria. The gap between the Austrians and Piedmontese widened. Napoleon now turned west to defeat the Piedmontese under Gen. Colli. We visit the battle sites of Cherasco, Mondovi and Millesimo where the French in succession defeated the Piedmontese army. At Millesimo, we met Mrs. Barbiero, a local historian, who taook us through the town's Napoleonic museum and fortress. It is here, on April 14, 1796, that Napoleon soundly defeated Gen. Colli; a defeat which later forced the King of Piedmonte-Sardinia to sign an armistice. This destroyed the alliance with Austria and allowed the safe passage of French troops through Piedmonte. Around 8 p.m., we returned to the Albergo Real Castello and then drove 4 km. south to La Morra and another fine Italian meal, and experienced our first taste of grappa, a type of vodka made from grapes. Here in the Barolo region the a rich hilly soil is perfect for vineyards. We met a vintner friend of Nicola's who happened to be dining at the next table, and we received a tour of the restaurant's wine cellar. We stood outdoors talking and watching the lights twinkling in the valley below until midnight. July 28: Some of us dozed as we made the rather long drive to Piacenza to visit the museum and take in the atmosphere of this medieval town. On May 9, 1796, Napoleon crossed the Po River at Piacenza, in pursuit of the Austrians. On to Codogno, where the Austrians under Liptay unsuccessfully defended against Dallemagne's Division. Next we are standing on the 250-meter bridge at Lodi where, outnumbered 2:1, Napoleon successfully forced an opposed river crossing over the Adda River. After several attempts to storm the bridge, Generals Berthier, Lannes, Massena, and Dallemagne took up the banner and led a successful charge across the bridge to take the town. We took time to inspect the riverbanks for likely fording sites, looking for impressions where the artillery batteries might have been placed. We dined near Piacenza at the Castle of Rivalta, XIIth century. Several new Italian friends joined in the festivities: Luigi "bloody skull" Parmigiani, Grazia "the grace" Badini, Marco "big mouth" Boccalone, Alessandro "mammoletta" Gardini. As an added treat, we discovered that the Restaurant owner was an accomplished miniaturist and he showed us his extensive Napoleonic collection. July 29: On to Brescia, to visit the Risorgimento Museum, which includes artifacts from the Napoleonic period and an extensive medieval armor museum. Then we traveled on to Castiglione where we meet up with Austrian Bernhard Voykowitsch. Castiligione was also where we first met Ricardo and Cristina Rinaldi, and Jack and Etta Chiantella, and Luca Marcolungo (he brought along a prototype Arcole game to show). We all gathered at a cafe where a class of touring English high school students (with Bernhard) also stopped. Bernhard, author of the definitive book on the battle, "Castiglione 1796" now became our expert guide. On August 5, 1796, Napoleon faced Austrian FM Wurmser who moved south along Lago di Garda in an effort to relieve Mantova. Through superior maneuvering and audacity, Napoleon routed finally the Austrians. The Austrians retreated eastward across the Adige River, abandoning the Mantovan garrison. After Castiligione, we first drove north to the tower of the Risorgimento where in a strong breeze we could see the campaign develop with a view all the way across Lake Garda to Brescia. We then moved on to the Risorgimento museum near Solferino. It is well worth a visit, as it covers the entire 18th century, including the Napoleonic period. There is a tower there that allows you to see both the Castiglione and Solferino battlefields. We end the day in Borghetto, were Napoleon crossed the Mincio River in pursuit of Wurmser. Our next bivouac, the Hotel Faccioli looks as if it had existed when the French marched through over one hundred years ago. Maybe Napoleon even slept there? July 30: On to Lago di Garda and Rivoli. At Rivoli we joined up with Alessandro Massignani, a historian with several books in print, and again Bernhard Voykowitsch was our guide. On January 14, 1797, Austrians troops under Gen. Alvintzy attack Napoleon defending the heights of Rivoli. Napoleon eventually defeated the Austrians, as another attempt to relieve Mantova fails. Gen. Massena, particularly brave during this battle, is ennobled 'Duc de Rivoli' by Napoleon. Bernhard led us up some steep goat paths until we topped a crest and could look down into the Chiese valley and see where the battle took place. The area is very mountainous and it was easy to see how units could get lost or confused in this difficult terrain. On the crest, we discovered and explored an abandoned Italian fortress from the 1880ís (this area was the old Italian/Austrian border until WWI). We lost Rich and Peter, left behind in the fort as we moved ahead. They eventually made it to the key ridge perpendicular to the small mountain we were climbing, while Jen and Joe accompanied Bernhard to the River overlook and checked on the accuracy of the river bend in OSG's Bonaparte in Italy map. After this hardy trek over the mountainous battlefield, (imagine traversing several mountains like that in the snow, as the Austrians did) we enjoyed a leisurely afternoon meal at a nearby restaurant to discuss the merits of the battle. Paolo Pastorello, a local Napoleonic history buff, hosted a special dinner in our honor at his summer home in Sarego. At the dinner in Sarego we met Alessandro Massignani, Col. Stivoli (Army) and Capt. "Stefano" (Carabinieri). We had a fantastic time. The meal began with a special welcoming drink of our hosts's own Red Tokay, served with Bruschette and patatine (toast of fried rosemary). The first course was a cold pasta salad and the second was grilled tenderloin, French beans and Cirio tomato salad. With dessert was served Spumante, Coffee, vodka and other spirits. We all spoke fluid Italian by last glass (even the Italians). Piero promised to research the question of whether the bridge on the Adige near Domegliara was built in 1796 (first indications seemed to confirm its presence). July 31: To Arcole, where we met Paolo Cariolato, Mr. Luciano, Mrs. Luisa and Guido Pastorello and Brian and Lynne Callington (from York, England). Arcole has a monument at the foot of its famous bridge and a fantastic Napoleonic museum. An architect from Rome built the museum to house his private collection of Napoleonic memorabilia. It is open to the public. The collection includes his own, very good recreations of some of the most famous Napoleonic paintings; and many artifacts, letters, medals, uniforms, and drawings from the period. The jewel in the collection is the curator, an ancient who is also the local historian who took us on a personal tour of the town, the battlefield and the famous bridge that Napoleon crossed to defeat the Austrians, as depicted in Gros' famous painting. The truth, as told by our guide, is that it never happened. Napoleon attempting to stop his routing troops fell off his horse into a nearby swamp and almost drowned. He was nearly captured, but his troops rallied enough to pull him out of the muck. The French never crossed the bridge. The Austrians later withdrew from Arcole, as the French attacked the town from the rear. Paolo invited us to a typical Italian country lunch at his father's summer home, and departed to start the preparations. We took the van on a gonzo expedition down the narrow dikes to a peach orchard and discovered what appeared to be the approaches to a river ford opposite Ronco. Several hours later, after an amazing meal of roast chicken, grilled sausages, polenta, and bottles of homemade wine, we continue on to Mantova. We ended the day as guests of Riccardo and Cristina Rinaldi in Mantova. This famous walled medieval city is surrounded by lakes. The Austrians garrisoned it and then spent a seven months trying to relieve it. Napoleon besieged it and defeated successive Austrian relief efforts. In the end, on February 2, 1797, FM Wurmser surrendered Mantova to the French. Of a garrison of 20,000 only half were fit for service. The rest were wounded, sick or malnourished. We enjoyed the sites, sounds and food of this fantastic city. We gathered at an outdoor cafe for our last meal together; Americans and Italians joined together by a common passion: the life, times and battles of Napoleon Bonaparte. We ate and drank and talked until almost daybreak. August 1: We drove back to Piacenza, turned in the van, and parted ways: and yet we all ended up on the same train to Milan for one more trip together. We stayed together as each of us found our next train, hotel room, or car rental. Then we took off in separate directions, some on to Austria and more battlefields, to Fiorenza to look at art, to Switzerland on business, or back to Locanda Solferino for another night before returning to the states. We had an extraordinary time together, not always smooth, but unforgettable. I can hardly wait until next year. Back to OSG News September 2000 Table of Contents Back to OSG News List of Issues Back to Master Magazine List © Copyright 2000 by Operational Studies Group. This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. Other military history articles and gaming articles are available at http://www.magweb.com