Next to figures, I am sure that the biggest source of expense for gamers (maybe bigger), is the constant need for paints, brushes, etc.
Paint Brushes - There seems to be an ongoing discussion in these pages as to which brushes are best, and overall, the subject is one that is outside the purposes of these articles. There really is no way to save money on brushes, except to follow the advice given in these pages. That is, to spend a bit more, buy good quality brushes, and take care of them, they should last along time. I will add, that I have gone over to white nylon brushes, finding that they keep their points much better than the traditional red sable type that most of us have always used. One suggestion I will offer on the subject, is to buy your brushes in person, not through mail order, so that you can see what you are getting. I would also suggest, that you will find better prices and often sales, if you deal with Craft Stores rather than Hobby Shops.
Paint Stirrers - This one, I'll start by saying, is not my idea, though I forget where I came across it. You can find in Dollar stores and Supermarkets, packets of Bamboo skewers, usually around 10 inches long, ranging in price from $1.00 to $2.00 for a pack of 100. They are great! Long enough to stir up the color from the bottom of a bottle of craft paint, and sturdy enough to mix colors without breaking. They have a finish to them, which makes them easy to wipe off, so a single pack will last you a long time. I've also found, that they are very useful for picking out fine details, i.e. buttons, eyes etc. on figures, as one end of the stick has a very fine point on it. I have also used these from time to time, as a replacement for thin doweling, for such things as palisades, fences, etc., and also for pikes, spears and flagpoles for 54mm figures. They also come in handy for thin measuring sticks, especially for DBA games with smaller scale figures.
Paints -Here is one area, where the frugal gamer can really save big. There are probably at least a half-dozen companies currently producing ranges of paints aimed specifically at wargamers. They do this, by giving their colors incredibly specific names, eg. 24th Foot 1879 Grass Green, or Galapagos Islander Flesh. Of course, it will cost you, to say that the Jackboots on your 1940 Germans are exactly the proper shade of black. Well folks, there is a less expensive solution, though it will take a bit of research on your part. Buy your paints at craft supply shops. There are at least three ranges with which I am familiar, all readily available, and all less than $1.50 for a large container. The size of the ranges are large, and the coverage and quality of the colors is uniformly excellent, I am quite sure, that any color you would require is available. Spend some time with a good color reference, an Osprey Book or similar, visit museums if there are any nearby which feature collections of uniforms or armor. I have been using these paints for many years, in fact, ever since I switched from enamel to acrylic back in the 70s.
Vision Aids - Sure, you youngsters don't need these yet, but once you pass 45, you start to think about them. Truthfully though, I have never worn glasses, and when painting figures 25mm and larger, have no problem at all. Over the past couple years, I have gotten more and more into 10mm armies, and in order to do justice to the quality of the figures, I decided to try some magnification. Not much though, I picked up a pair of reading glasses in the drugstore, and found that for me, these worked perfectly. They are inexpensive, generally costing less than $15.00 each, and really are beneficial. They come in a number of different "powers", so try them on and see what suits your needs. Combine this with a good light source, and you will find that you can probably paint for longer periods of time, without eyestrain. I actually have started to wear them when painting larger figures, as they make doing the really small details much easier. See you next time, and again, I welcome your comments.
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© Copyright 1999 Hal Thinglum
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