Let me start by saying, that I jumped on the 10mm bandwagon two years ago, and I haven't jumped off yet. Just read the article I wrote in The Zouave. Simply stated, had 10mm figures been around when I first got involved in wargaming over 30 years ago, there would be a lot of figure manufacturers now moaning over poor sales! If you put things in perspective, there should have always been a 10mm scale. Back in the "old days", when there were only 54mm, 30mm, 20mm, and Micro Armor, a natural extension would have been to 10mm, rather than to 15mm, since 10mm had the built in advantage of matching up with N Gauge Railroad equipment, yes, I know about f f scale, which is the same as 15mm, but how available is R. and what is produced besides trains ? There are however, several points on which I differ with the fellows who have written previously on the subject.

1. Increase in table Size - While I guess that this is an important consideration to some, it, only matters if you are regularly playing huge battles. My preferred level, is the lower tactical end, with companies being the basic unit of maneuver. Of course, it has a lot to do with the period. I tend to game in the period from 1859 - 1885, with some early 20th century thrown in, so a company seems to me to be the ideal unit. I look rather at the difference in cost, a company of 12 figures from Chariot, costs me less than $ 3.00, what would 12 figures cost if you were buying 25mm or even 15mm, rather more, I think. I like the idea better, that you can play a low level action in a smaller area, thus making the game more portable.

2. Unit Size - It seems that everyone in these pages is talking about scaling down their collections, not needed if you are doing 10mm. When you take into consideration the cost and speed with which they can be painted, large units are a reality. I have already fixed on fielding double sized units for my armies, which are based for "Principles of War", so that a battalion is now 24 figures instead of 12, a damn sight prettier on the table! Company level games I have kept at the standard size for the rules, as a battalion of 1870 Prussians at company level, is 48 figures, big enough! I know that I go against the majority of the community these days, but I prefer to have my figures in similar poses, ie, I want advancing figures to be all looking forward, with their weapons at 45 or 90 . They are after all, toys, not real people, and I like them to look like toys.

3. Painting - Here is where I have the most to say. Gamers seem to insist on comparing the detail on 10mm figures to the best 15mm. Well, hold up a 10mm Chariot or GHQ figure to a 25rnm figure, I have to doubt that you will find much difference in the level of detail. I have reached the point, where, when I consider a new period, I don't even think about 15mm, but whether to do it in 10mm or 25mm. Sure, if you want to compare them by cost, why would you buy 15mm figures when 10mm figures for less money, are so much better ? As far as anatomical design, I think that the 10mm figures I have seen, there are in truth exceptions, but those I have seen and painted, are perfectly proportioned and posed, unlike the current craze of charactatured figures produced by many.

I think that over the years, I have developed into a pretty good painter, and most garners at least a bit impressed with my work, so I have to disagree with the painting tips that were given in. the previous articles. With patience and care, 10mm figures can be painted as well as any other scale. What you have to realize though, is that others may scoff at spending the time required. it satisfies me to know though, that my French Cuirassier have mustaches and goatees, and that all the piping and trim that I can manage, does appear on the uniforms where they should. Sure, its not easy, and takes a steady hand and a bit of help with the eyesight ( I use Dime Store Reading Glasses ), but with the right tools, true gems are possible, and in far less time than it takes to paint larger figures. I still stick with white undercoats, using a watered down Gesso to prime the figures, then proceeding with the painting. Again, I do everything to the smaller figures that I do to larger ones, the flesh gets a wash of scarlet, and the figures get a final black wash and then dry - brushing.

4. Adaptability - This is one of the strongest points of this scale. Given that there are many holes in what is currently available, it is a good thing that it is easy to disguise 10mm figures. For instance, my 10mm Wurtemburgers, will be painted to impersonate not only Saxons, but probably also, 1877 Russians, while ACW infantry in blanket rolls, will become the Red Shifted followers of Garibaldi or even William Walker. It also comes in very handy for Colonial campaigns. 1870 French, can become Foreign Legion without too much trouble, and one sort of tribesman in a turban, can pass for most sorts. It is very fortunate, that the scale seems to be catching on, so that more types are becoming available every day, ft will soon be possible I expect, to do virtually anything in this scale.

5. Basing - I am in the process of re-evaluating my bases. My gaming companions and I have become hooked on "Principles of War", and now use them for any action set in the 19th century. As such, I have the figures mounted on 30mm wide bases for the rules, with 4 figures to a base. This of course, as long as I always have matched armies, will work with almost any set of rules. The bases by the way, are a real find. They are dominos, that I pick up in Dollar Stores, in packs of 28. They are thick, about 3 / 16, maybe a bit more, but they save the figures from undue handling and breakage. I have also used plastic tiles, found in the Milton Bradley "Hangman" game, that are basically 30mm x 25mm, and can be purchased for $3.00 a set from the company ( about 150 tiles ). However, I am now considering a major change. As I do more and more research into the wars of the mid to late 19th century, I am becoming of the opinion, that the figures should actually be individually based. This, will allow for the greatest and most accurate tactical flexibility, and also more adaptable to different sets of rules. No, I can't imagine actually move several hundred I Orrun figures one by one, what I would do, is place them on magnetic bases, the size of a whole unit, and move them like that. Since I play a lot of solo games though, and a lot of low level games, I will probably try the individual movement myself The only problem, is that I am not looking forward to trying to pry the figures offtbe domino bases, covered as they are with a white glue / terrain mix!

6. Rules - Just a quick note on suitable rules, Fire and Fury, Advance the Colors, and Principles of War, are provided for 10mm figures, at least as regards basing, so if you are a stickler for ground scale, these rules do cater to you.

Well, as you can see, I am sold on the scale, and I am convinced that our numbers will only continue to grow. One last bit of information. In the list of suppliers that was provided, one old and large company was omitted, Jack Scruby! Yes, Jack's figures are still available, under the new label of Ultimate Miniatures, the company is run by Rodney Strong, whose name I think I have seen in these pages. Jack's range of N gauge figures, may well pre -date even Bellona, as I can recall seeing them in the mid seventies. While not up to the quality of GHQ or Chariot, they are good figures, with no flash, and a more than acceptable level of detail. The best thing about them, is that they produce figures in a huge variety of periods, from Ancient through WWII, with large Napoleonic and ACW ranges, along with considerable AMR and Colonial ranges. They are inexpensive, costing about .15 each. There is one drawback though, they are not compatible with anyone else's figures. Style wise, they would mix with GHQ, but they measure about 12mm from sole to eye, so they would have to be looked at as a "sole source' supplier, unless you really need something they make, and can overlook the difference in size. For example, I am considering using their Pathan / Arab / Dervish figures along with the Chariot British, to expand the possibilities beyond the Zulu and First Boer Wars.

I am really glad to see that the scale has caught on, and hopefully, Chariot, GHQ and the others, will continue to expand the periods being covered. Being someone who never liked micro armor scale, and barely tolerated 15mm, I am really enthused about the possibilities that the scale offers.

Note - If you are interested, here is the data for Ultimate Miniatures, the catalog costs $ 4.00. Ultimate Miniatures, P.O. Box 756, Corcoran. CA 93212-0756.