From Steve Dake
I am concerned after reading the June '91 Editorial in PW REVIEW. Good Editor Simon writes of a past review on PW by yours truly, and frankly, he seemed a bit put out. Now while I'd first read it and laughed, my dear wife, who is both better-looking and far more perceptive than I, also read it and had said "I think he's upset." She started me thinking, and my concern grew. In his comments, Wally had alluded that although I seemed to have good things to say about PW REVIEW, I didn't seem to think much of Wally personally. Wow, I thought, PW is Wally - it's his irreverent, humorous writing style and manner that makes PW wot it 'tis. I went to HISTORICON with the intention of explaining my feelings to Mr. Simon in person, even going so far as to apologize fer crying out loud, in order to clear up this gross misunderstanding. While there, I developed a theory. As startling as it may seem, I feel there is no other conclusion to be reached. When signing in, I immediately asked the whereabouts of Wally. "Daaaah," was the blank response from the male attendant. A female attendant standing nearby grabbled the fumbled ball and leaped to the other's aid. "Wally," she laughed, "Just look around. He's here somewhere." "What's he look like?" I innocently asked. Now it was her turn to look lost. Does he have glasses? Yes, she said quickly - almost too quickly. What color is his hair? Dark, was the vague comeback - A mustache? Both he and she attendants looked at each other and pondered this one.
Finally, she came back with something I wasn't expecting. "Plaid shirts," she said, "He's always got on a plaid shirt." "Yes," the other attendant laughed, "always plaid shirts." Then they both laughed, somewhat relieved. "He's got a nametag," was the last helpful clue. Very few people had plaid shirts, although all of them had nametags, but none of them were the elusive Mr. Simon. After getting neck strain from looking down I had found no Wally, but I did find someone who I assumed could lead me to the source. The pleasant Fred Hubig, made kinda famous due to Wally's writings on their frequent battle actions, was a true gentleman but was unfortunately no more help than the other two. "Wally - hah, hah! Don't take him too seriously." "Where can I find him," I asked. "Ooh, he's around. I don't know if he's here or not right now." When I laughed and said I'd look for a plaid shirt, it was Fred's turn to look at me with a blank expression. He always wears plaid shirts, yet this person who supposedly games with him all the time wasn't aware of this? It was then I began to form my theory, but it wasn't until the HMGS business meeting, that while listening to Mike Montemaro speak in defense of providing HMGS funds to support the Ft. Meade - Refight of Borodino project, an item obviously near and dear to Wally's heart, that it all became crystal clear. There is no such real person as Wally Simon!
Wally Simon is probably just a pseudonym for the highly-efficient, business-like Michael Montemaro, who uses his writings with the Wally character as an emotional release from his many professional and hobby-related responsibilities. When you think about it, Mike's clever enough to pull it off. Hal, I thought you should be aware of this. PS - don't tell anyone!
(Editor's Note: I'm glad you brought this up, Steve, as it is a matter that I have suspected for quite some time. I've met both Michael and "Wally" a number of times, though never at the same time; they both report to be lawyers and I suspect "they" are correct about this as nobody would admit to being a lawyer if they weren't; it's obvious that someone like Michael would have the ability to carry this off, and again equally obvious that it is not "Wally" impersonating Michael as "Wally" would not have such abilities; there is a considerable difference in height and displayed intelligence, with Michael winning out on both counts; and Michael possesses a lawyer's bravado while "Wally" is more mealy-mouthed in nature. Your theory would seem to be correct, especially when one considers the height difference as while it is not possible for a short person ("Wally") to look tall, it is possible for a tall person (Michael) to appear shorter. The only aspect of this theory which leaves doubt in my mind is I can understand how someone would want to look like Michael though I can not for the life of me comprehend why someone would like to look like "Wally.")
From Jim Purkey
Good news! The film Waterloo, featuring Rod Steiger and Christopher Plummer, is now available on VHS videotape here in the good old USA. I recalled seeing this film many times during my prewargaming days, but wouldn't you know it, the moment I got hooked on Napoleonics, it no longer seemed to appear on television. Then, last fall, WFLD Ch. 32 began showing it at such reasonable hours as 1AM or 4AM, on weeknights (like I'm really going to stay up on Thursday night to tape it). I managed to tape the last. hour of the film last fall, but my copy was full of commercials for "no money down real estate seminars" or 900 number hotlines (at .50 per minute) which kind of spoiled the effect for me. At any rate, Paul Petri tipped me off that copies could be purchased at "Sun Coast Motion Pictures at Woodfield Mall (phone 708-619-6746) for only $14.95.
Whilst out there, I purchased a copy of ZULU DAWN, KHARTOUM, THE HORSE SOLDIERS (John Wayne), and WATERLOO. They also had the '27 version of NAPOLEON, which, I understand, has excellent battle footage. A few oddities about WATERLOO. I think that it as filmed in Spain and Russia, so every now and then you can see some rather prominent mountains in the background. Now I know that Belgium is hardly flat as a waffle, but even these hills are oversized. Another little pet peeve I have about historical movies in general, is the presence of exploding shell belching forth from the barrels of both British and French cannons.
Now I may not be an artillery expert, nor have I ever stared into the barrel of a cannon (...behold, a letter came forth to the head MWAN'er from a man who hath claimed to have stared down the barrel of a cannon...), but I thought that exploding shell usage was rather limited in 1815 and that round shot was the projectile of choice for 9 out of 19 purveyors of cannon balls. Aside from that, it's fun to be able to see WATERLOO once again. Note that this is the 122 minute version, rather than the full nine hour (?) epic (oh, what I would pay for a copy of that one). Oh well, I must get back to the videotape. I was about to see General Ponsonby get served "en bruchette" by the French lancers (hee, hee, hee).
From Mark Serafin
I've fallen in with HMGS Northwest, to the extent that I've had time. They seem like a fairly well-organized group, at least compared to what I'm used to. I went to their quarterly meeting last month and there were 30-40 gamers there and I was told this was a bad turn-out. There was a full dress convention a couple of weeks back, complete with role playing folks and Battletech. Considering the number of folks in the miniatures area, I was surprised at how quiet it was (compared to what I'm used to). Quite the bunch of gentlemen, eh what. Got myself into a SYW game and had a great time, even though I mostly sat and waited to be attacked (I was the Russians, don't you know). Thank goodness I sold all my unpainted SYW lead, or now I'd be wanting to get into that, too!
Saw a game of FIRE AND FURY being played and was impressed at how smoothly it went. I think they are the rules I'm going to use with my 5mm figures. I've had these figures about eight years and never found a set of rules to use with them. I wanted to have casualty removal to be by stand, because who wants to count anything that small in the wee hours of the morning? The only rules that fit that bill were ON TO RICHMOND, which I was set up to play when I moved to Tallahassee. That town, however, was firmly set on JOHNNY REB, so the 5mm's sat idle. People up here, though, seem to really like FIRE AND FURY, so I think the little fellows are going to get their chance. I'm mounting them on 1/2" wargame counters (pirated from SPI's much detested Wolfpack game), with 4 to 6 figures per stand. I use larger counters (5/8" Panzerblitz size) for artillery batteries, cavalry, etc. For ground scale, I simply substitute centimeters for inches. I found this takes a little getting used to. I had a practice game with a friend where we each had six or seven brigades on a three foot wide card table. We found that we couldn't begin to cover that much frontage with the troops we had. Strange. Got some samples of FLEX-TERRAIN from Jim Brokaw. For $3.00 he sent me short sections of road, river and river bank. They are made of a rubbery material and come finished. The road is a dirty brown and full of wheel ruts. The river is a semi-transparent blue color. The river bank has a banked dirt section and a flocked section that slopes back down to table level. Regular pieces are 24" long and sell for $6.00. Mr. Brokaw can be reached at 3611 Quail Ridge Ln., Matthews, NC, 28105.
Finally, I have to mention a game I've been playing of late called GHENGIS KHAN. This is a Nintendo game that is worth playing. Players are the rulers of medieval kingdoms, trying to balance population, economics, trade and diplomacy while trying to conquer the world. The machine runs countries without players and hands our random disasters. There is a tactical subgame for combat resolution. This game is a great buy for $46 and a far cry from Mario Brothers. The importer is Koei, and the game can be ordered from them at 415-348-0500.
From Brent Oman
A friend and I are painting up a couple of DBA 15mm armies - our first plunge into ancients! Should be fun. I made the mistake of buying a pack of micro armor to paint to see if I liked it. A quick base color followed by a Poly-S flat clear (with black added) wash, topped off dry brushing and it's all over but the shouting! The detail just POPS out! I'm interested in WWII Eastern Front, but at a fairly high level of command (division?). I'm looking for (thinking about writing?) a simple set of rules that reflects command and control problems and minimizes the usual "reams of charts" approach. To me, modern armor/infantry rules should be fast/hard hitting. I'm attempting to finish a 6mm Adler Russian Napoleonic Corps for the upcoming TACTICON Convention in Denver. The figures are great and paint up quickly. A local friend, Tom Dye, has generated a really neat set of "big game" rules for Napoleonics. Each stand (3/4" X 3/4") represents a battalion and the basic unit of maneuver is the brigade. We've been play testing them at CMG club meetings and have had lots of fun. Our last game had a Russian Corps attacking an entrenched French Division defending an important crossroads. The French managed to hold on for a scale four hours before the Russian horde overwhelmed them. All in all a fun game. On top of the above periods, I'm still working on 25mm ACW, 15mm Franco Prussian, 15mm ACW, 15mm Napoleonics, and 15mm WWI. As if I need more periods, I'm tempted to do 15mm SYW (Essex) or 15mm Marlborough (Dixon, Minifig). I also have a few 15mm Mex Am figures to do (Frontier/Minifig). Also, the latest issue of PRACTICAL WARGAMER started a series on the Crusades and promised the next issue would contain a rules set by the same author. Great, yet another period! Re MWAN, I feel like I could walk up to any of the writers/letter writers of MWAN and strike up a conversation immediately. I feel that the sense of comraderie is really what makes MWAN so special.
(Editor's Note: Good to hear from you, Brent; Geez! 15mm and 25mm lines for Napoleonics and ACW? Are you crazier than I am with my 15mm/25mm Sudan period? Here I was feeling guilty about building the Sudan in two scales - thanks, I feel much better now! I've been very tempted by the Eastern Front as well, Brent. MLR makes a great 20mm line and one can add PLATOON 20 and several other manufacturers as well! 6mm has also tempted me several times - I can just see a table full of armies with open flanks, maneuver room, etc. Simply amazing, I tell you!)
From Ken Bunqer
Through your editorials in MWAN and the many conversations we've had, I've become aware of what you consider to be a problem. I of course mean your addiction to researching a historical period, planning a wargames army, acquiring great masses of figures (and what's worse actually, painting them), and building (or conjoling Clem to build) the necessary terrain pieces. Then, once this sad cycle has been completed, you seem to realize, to your horror, what you've done and immediately sell the whole lot. I consider your separate article (MWAN 9/6) discussing your schizophrenia with regard to 15mm vs 25mm Sudan wargaming to be a particularly touching cry for help. This letter is motivated somewhat by our friendship and somewhat out of my own feeling of professional responsibility, but primarily because my motivation is economic. Hal, I can't afford to buy anymore of your armies. It's not that I haven't used all those thousands of Zulus, British, Sudanese, Egyptians, Indians, French and Prussians. it doesn't even bother me that I already had thousands of those very same figures. In fact, I might even use the WWI Turks someday. But the problem is that I haven't got a choice. Compulsive behavior is like that. I find myself awaiting MWAN simply to find out what new army you are planning. I'll ask acquaintances - what is Hal painting now? I even took a protective interest in your FFL figures at LITTLE WARS when I thought they were being banged around a little too much. This has got to stop! So, by way of solution, I will send you a hobby guidebook and videotape entitled THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF WOODWORKING or HAPPINESS THROUGH DO IT YOURSELF HOME IMPROVEMENT PROJECTS. Perhaps with this change of hobbies you can again sleep at night and my son can finish graduate school. Although I wonder what I'm going to do with 1500 kitchen cabinets that you'll sell me!
(Editor's Note: The above is a classic case of a sick individual being unwilling to accept responsibility for his own behavior and attempting to change those around him so that he himself does not have to exert control over his compulsive buying habits. It is true that Mr. Bunger has indeed purchased thousands of figures from me; as a matter of fact, my wife has gotten into the habit of reviewing my mail prior to me getting home and whenever a letter from Mr. Bunger arrives, she eagerly rips it open and searches for the check which she is sure is included! She even refers to our new kitchen cabinets, picture window and redone family room as Mr. Bunger's contribution to our home! I, on the other hand, will have no difficulty in proving my mental competence when I am dragged into court - probably by the prosecuting Mr. Bunger, who happens to be the the city attorney (need I say more?) for the city of Omaha - I shall bring along the shiny new Sudan wargames castings from WARGAMES FOUNDRY, MINIFIGS, VICTORIAN CLASSICS, STONE MOUNTAIN, GALLIA, and ESSEX and most certainly by exhibiting them to the judge and jury, I shall be cleared of all charges and allowed to return to my painting table as they will immediately comprehend how these figures are just too lovely to resist! Mr. Bunger, on the other hand, will have to explain to his wife about his second checking account, the existence of which she is currently unaware. Case closed, Mr. Bunger?)
From Danny Adams
I began miniature gaming about five years ago and currently have a large ACW army (1500 figures), British (300 figures) and Zulu (600) also in 15mm. After reading your rules set for the FFL in MWAN #52, I am now starting to build in this area. I had the privilege of being in Omaha, NE recently and met Ken Bunger at his home where I got to see his large collection of figures and gaming accessories
(Editor's Note: Did he offer to buy any of your figures?).
This gentleman was very kind and invited me to come and game with them; unfortunately I live a long way away and it is difficult to get to Omaha but if I can get there, you can bet I will contact Ken again. Living in Pierre, SD with a population of 11,000 can make it difficult to have much for gaming but we actually have about eight regular gamers not including my wife. She helps me with painting and likes playing JOHNNY REB, and also puts up with a house full of guys on occasion. Many of the people that game with me are also members of my Karate Club, you might say that I twisted their arms to get them to play. Usually I find that once you get a person to play once or twice they will be hooked. The one thing that I find with this hobby is that most everyone you find involved with it is very friendly and will go out of their way to show you a good time. Ken Bunger is a very good example of this for taking the time to show four guys and their wives and families his collection. I'm afraid if some of the people that I game with and myself lived around Ken's house he would get real tired of seeing us. Just the size of his gaming room impressed me not to mention his figures and books. It was also nice to find out that Ken was involved in the martial arts at one time also.
(Editor's Note: Honest, it was just blind luck that Danny's letter was the next one in line for this column, but I feel that it further reinforces my case!)
From David Southall
Your article on wargaming the FFL in LONE WARRIOR (Vol 16, #3) was interesting. I'm intending using a version of your system to simulate French battles with the Viet Minh in Indochina (1947-54). My research has shown this conflict to bear more resemblance to a "traditional" colonial conflict than to the later war against the Viet Cong and NVA. (Editor's Note: Perhaps you will share this with us in the future!)
From Wes Rogers
I bought a large number of Spanish and French and have been painting about 50 figures a week the last few weeks - 15mm Minifigs. I'm about to send off for a bunch more. It's amazing how a gamer's output increases with enthusiasm for a new period. I've got about 400 Napoleonics (Minifigs and Old Glory) in a box in the drawer in my painting desk. I don't even want to look at them! But, the Pike & Shot figures seem to be almost painting themselves lately. How many figures does a gamer really need, anyway? When I make up a list of my "Must Have" figures for a period, it always comes out to nearly 1000 or so, even though I know I'll never need to use them all in a game. It's just nice to know they're there, I guess.
From Bill Stewart
Thanks for the help you gave us on the Sudan Project. We've had a few play tests that went pretty well. The main problem, as always in Colonial games, was the control of the native units. They were able to dash out, force the Colonial troops into an immovable square, then flit away with perfect control and coordination. Doug Hamm, a Canadian friend, has offered some simple "auto-pilot" rules for native units. Hopefully this will take care of that problem. Also, scenarios for colonial games are always a bit difficult. We tried (A) Colonial troops attack the Dervish village and destroy their base (very marginal Colonial victory); (B) Relieve the Egyptian garrison in the fort (the fort is now a new Dervish base). I guess we will just have to wait for some battle reports, or better yet, a campaign system from Richton Park.
(Editor's Note: Glad you found my rules of assistance; I'm going to redo them as soon as I get some more Sudan figures painted. I'd like to know about Doug's ideas on "auto-pilot" as I've tried some of the same things with the natives. Off the top of my head, I do not allow the native units to automatically close - they may have to "beat a six" on two dice; they may also have to do the same if they try to move again after halting for more than one turn. Re scenarios, I have visions of the Camel Corps moving across the desert and being attacked by Dervish; of Egyptian and Sudanese battalions, supported by a British or Indian regiment and a battery of screw guns, moving against the Fuzzies; a British attack with gunboats - and attempting to land troops - in Khartoum with the Dervish defending the town and a mud fort -- Clem, get busy on that 15mm gunboat and mud fort! - Boy, I love the Sudan period!)
From Jeff Baumal
Had a great time at HISTORICON - my first big convention! I played a WWI game with THE LAST CRUSADE rules in 15mm in Africa. I was the South Africans and we were fighting the Germans and their African allies in German East Africa. It was a great game even though I was slaughtered to a man. The next day I was the Indians in an 1883 Anglo-Egyptian conflict. Late that same day I played an FFL game and had a blast! I was the Head Chieftain and led our glorious tribes over the walls to victory. Saturday I played with the Jenkins Hobby Shop boys. Some outstanding terrain. It was a colonial battle set in India in the 1880's-1890's and there were about 33 players on a huge U-shaped table. There were three coastal forts, many enemy, ships, etc. The battle was great. The pirates landed all over the board and everyone had different objectives; in addition, we were supposed to burn and steal of course. I bought 102 NAISMITH Zulus brilliantly painted for 80 bucks; two companies of the 24th; a Naval Brigade, two British gunboats and one French, more Zulus (MINIFIGS) and scores of unpainted figures. Everything from Colonial to WWII. Even a couple (well, about 80) Ancients. Also bought some FLEX-TERRAIN. Outstanding!
So far my FFL collection has grown; I have three 21-man companies of the Legion, one company of Zouaves, one company of Algerian Tirallieurs, one 12-man squadron of Saphis, and one 12-man squadron of Chasseurs. Along with them I have two Nordenfeld machine guns, two hotchkiss, two 75mm guns and crews for all. On the other side, I have three Tuareg foot 20-25 men per, one elite Tuareg tribe with spears (30), one 12-man Tuaregs one horse with rifles, and one 12-man group with spears on camels. I have one band of assorted Morrocans (about 27) and two bands of Bedouin or Berbers (24 each). All of this is in 25mm. Also I have one bombard and two gunners for the Arabs. I was, going to create a crew for the Arab guns but first I'll have a look at Gary Hirel's new figures, considering I sent him some drawings. of what I wanted and his other figures are really nice so I don't think I'll be disappointed.
(Editor's Note: Good to hear from you, Jeff; for those interested in 15mm FFL, Jeff will have a "lead" article in HELIOGRAPH soon on manufacturers of FFL figures in 15mm and my article on 25mm FFL figure sources will follow his.)
From Jim Purkey
ELITE MINIATURES produces an outstanding line of 1806 Prussians, Saxons and French in 25mm. The colorful Prussians are very similar to their SYW predecessors. My French army is an eclectic mix of OLD GLORY, ELITE, ESSEX, CONNOISSEUR and HINCHLIFFE figures. I mix several brands of figures on each stand and this gives me a nice "campaign-look" with lots of character and individuality. I'm particularly impressed with OLD GLORY'S early French in Bicornes. I'm always surprised that I never see French armies in bicornes when I peruse the games at conventions; afterall, Napoleon was at his zenith at Austerlitz and Jena/Auerstadt, yet most Napoleonic gamers build 1812-15 French armies (in shakos). Its a different look to see early French. That's probably why I enjoy the 1805-1807 period so much.
From Brother Aelred Glidden
I am now planning on trying to pin heads with cocked hats from ESCI Prussians onto the torsos of ESCI Scots Greys for the commander of each army. I will let you know if I hurt myself badly in the experiment. Getting the armies together has been fun but frustrating as well. I always enjoy planning wargaming ideas and armies (most of which thankfully never come to fruition) and have enjoyed exploring the ESCI Napoleonic range (surprisingly good) but waiting for things on order bothers me (once I decide I want to do something, I want to do it now!). I've been too busy to do much painting and my arthritis is getting so that I can't paint for more than 30 minutes or so at a time (fortunately I was always a lousy painter so I don't need to worry too much about how bad the paint job is).
From Tom Barkalow
It still amazes me how MWAN can continue to turn out so many fine articles per issue. I always find several of outstanding interest. MWAN #52 is notable for containing several articles by the esteemed editor regarding his FFL and Sudan projects. Having watched part of Hal's game at LITTLE WARS, it was nice to see the rules so I can understand what I saw. What stuck in my mind was a melee between a small Legion contingent and a swarm of Arabs. Legionnaires were dropping left and right, but few Arabs went to their heavenly reward. When it came time to check morale, the Legionnaires required a high number to pass and rolled high. The Arabs would pass on a 3 or higher and rolled snake-eyes. As the Arabs retreated, the players discussed this miraculous turn of events. The remark was made that obviously the Legionnaires standing after taking so many casualties shook up the Arabs as "they died so well." Also enjoyed Brother Glidden's article as I have a special fondness for Napoleonic Era naval fiction and recognized several familiar names. As neither Bolitho nor Hornblower were Captains during the ARW (Bolitho was a junior Lt), we must be hearing of some little know relatives. I hope to hear more of Admiral St. Clair and his somewhat obscure theological dialogues. The other excellent article was Greg Nichol's one on cheating. The 15" ruler with each inch marked as 1 and 1/4" was brilliant. Unfortunately, as many of my wargaming cronies also read MWAN, my use of one is being balanced out by theirs! Judging from the letters in this issue, there is a wide variety of opinion regarding the types of articles being submitted and printed. We have one fellow waiting for a weather change to renew (though I didn't quite grasp the exact type of article he was waiting for; it was clear what he didn't like) and another liking it all, diatribes included.
From John Henderson
I must tell you how much I enjoy MWAN; it is such a homey magazine, friendly and welcoming. Enjoyed the letter in Vol 9, #5, pg 47 from Sam Mustafa, and agree whole-heartedly with him that wargaming is primarily for fun. I myself have only been playing for about five years, and when I started I used WRG rules 1685-1845. which set me off on the right foot as it were, but since then, like many others, tired numerous rules which I altered to suit myself. I also started on campaigns and am currently on my third to date. Of course, I have plenty of time at my disposal being retired and 76 years young? So what I have found in these last few years is similar to Sam's ideas. Where I used complicated rules systems, I now have a selection of "back of a postcard" rules which fit onto a 9" X 7" card, easy to play, and leaving plenty of time to get on with the "good fight" instead of pouring over convoluted rules. I've even streamlined my campaign rules to enable more time to be spent at the gaming table. Liked your MARCH OR DIE rules in the last issue even though I fight mainly Napoleonics. I really dote on rules systems and scrutinize them for parts I can incorporate into my own rules. I was sorry that your idea for a rules system didn't come to pass, I was all ready to register for a copy.
(Editor's Note: Would you think about sharing your campaign system with us?)
From John Brisch
Have taken your advice re using plastic sweater boxes to store figures. I have been purchasing plastic boxes with a snap on lid manufactured by STER-LITE from a local TARGET store. They are about $4.50 each but occasionally they run a sale on them; two for $5.00. They measure 10" X 15" X 6" and store nicely under my caring table. The lids and box bottoms are designed to stack and interlock with each other. Using a hot glue gun, I build corrugated cardboard trays to put my figures onto. Then the trays are set in the storage box. Depending on the height of the flags, banners, and lances, I can usually get two trays in each box.
From Robert Cairo
The only thing I don't like about MWAN is that some of the contributors seem to foam at the mouth about the realism vs playability" debate. As an example, the current NAPOLEON'S BATTLES vs EMPIRE leaves me cold. The fanatics on both sides need to chill out and realize that neither rules set "simulates" reality. We don't know enough about the factors of warfare to make a true simulation. The best we can do is read as much military history in the period(s) that interest us and see if a rules set seers: to conform to "inherent milit.:ry probability." Personally I don't think neither of the two sets I mentioned are that great. However, I don't criticize anyone that likes them, the rules are just not fo:_ me. I wish more people would er:brsce your philosophy that the purpose of the hobby is to have fun and meet new friends.
(Editor's Note: Thanks for your opinions, Robert. I do not enjoy such debates either unless they are conducted in a fashion expected of "Gentlemen". If so, they serve a real purpose, I believe, as discussion of one's interpretations of a rules set and subsequent responses from others concerning their thoughts on the subject can be stimulating. Personal attacks are not enjoyable or appropriate and will not be seen in MWAN again.)
From David Smith
Your talk of single mounting figures, combined with Chuck Vadun's piece on the OLD TOY SOLDIER HOME, really struck home with me. This summer I've been repairing broken old toy soldiers (BRITAINS), taking a brief break from painting DBA armies. I imagine that many wargamers have boxes of old broken BRITAINS away in their attics. The restoration of these pieces could prove to be a refreshing and profitable experience (foot figures go for about $10-20; cavalry #20-30). One person I've found to be tremendously helpful is Bob Walker of 796 S. 3rd St., San Jose, CA 95112; send SASE for quick response). He casts just about every part a child could ever break and prices are reasonable. The talk of toy soldiers also inspired me to look through John Garratt's MODEL SOLDIERS (1959) book and I found two lines of interest.
- "Jack Scruby has made four complete armies for his own use, each consisting of 200 men a side. One, in 54mm, represents various regiments of the Napoleon-Wellington era; another, 40mm, of German and British in 1900 African attire; the third in 30mm scale is of French and British troops of the wars in Canada, and lastly, a 35mm set for the American Civil War."
Having an interest in the history and development of the wargame hobby, this statement invites certain questions involving (1) organization of armies and (2) rules used in play. Does anyone have material relating to these and other questions involving the wargames of Jack Scruby? Please do write if you have such information. By the way, is anyone else out here gaming on the Mendocino Coast?
From J.L. Lopez-Aquado
As to the issue of moving many figures across the gaming table, in one of the MWAN issues, it mentioned mounting figures on washers. They can then be placed on larger stands that have magnetic strips. One can move the unit by moving the larger stands and casualties can simply be removed from the larger stand. Here in Fresno we reversed the situation by mounting the figures on a square cut from a magnetic strip. Figures can then be placed on a thin square or rectangular or strip of sheet metal. This allows for a thinner mounting system that is easier to set up.
From Vincent Scrimenti
I placed my eighth order to EMPEROR'S HEADQUARTERS this weekend after starting my MWAN subscription in January of this year and mentioned MWAN as the source of information regarding EHQ. They had many kind things to say about MWAN! I just received the OLD GLORY 15mm Austrians and they're great! In your last issue, you mentioned some people complaining about flash; I really don't see any flash except a small 1/16" particle on the bottom of the stands, which breaks off with a rub of my fingernail. No problem with that. I can honestly say that these are the best 15mm figures I have ever seen!
(Editor's Note: I agree, Vincent, re the "flash" on OLD GLORY figures. The point I was trying to make was that OLD GLORY offers 100+ 15mm figures for $15.00 - easily the least expensive figures on the market today - and the reviewer complains about a little flash. It would appear as though some people don't think of that.)
From Henry Wirth
Am not sure I should be writing having been defrocked and broken from the ranks of wargamers. I enjoyed writing the "horse" letter and enjoyed your reply. Galileo, after being forced to recant his heliocentric theory of the universe, is reputed to have said, under his breath, "but it sill turns", so "but they are still brown." Also, I think the authority quoted is Galen, not Balen. Seriously, like yourself and many other wargamers I am fascinated with the Zulus and the Zulu War. However, after playing a few games and having my Impis slaughtered, once by a gatling gun, I lost interest in the period. After seeing the Mini-series SHAKA ZULU and rereading E.A. Ritter's book of the same name and the Zulu series by H. Rider Haggard, my interest in the era is reviving. What if Shaka had not been assassinated in 1828 and his campaign near the Cape frontier ended in a confrontation with the British? The British army, only a little removed from Waterloo, would encounter the Zulu army in its Prime. A replay of Isandhlwana can be imagined but a Rorke's Drift or an Ulundi? I suspect the stand of the 80th Regiment at the Intombi River would be a last stand. Figures should be no problem; Napoleonic Era British are readily available and Zulus are Zulus. The real problem would be finding someone willing to command the British. (Editor's Note: Interesting idea, John!)
From Chris Sweltzer
Purchased MWAN #50 from MODELER'S MART in Safety Harbor, FL on our last "pilgrimage" to that fine establishment. I enjoy MWAN and particularly like the reviews and product news, scenarios, replays and the letters column discussing the current "hot" topics in gaming. I am a member of the Gainesville, FL area wargamers, having lived there for eight years. We meet most Saturdays at various sites. We play our own 5mm Napoleonics rules for which we have an extensive collection of figures. Also ACW, 15mm Naps (NAPOLEON'S BATTLES), and WWII naval. We also have limited collections of ECW and AWI figures and play the occasional boardgame. We have a small collection of 25mm colonials and at the Zulu collector's rate of painting (2 figures in 2 and 1/2 years) we hope to have a small skirmish game by 2050, if we survive! Most of our regulars are in the 25-40 age band, however, some of us are wondering if loopholes exist so we can "take it with us."
From Jon Lauqhlin
I joined a gaming society called BAGA or the Bay Area Gamers Association. It's purpose is to help gamers, both fantasy and historical, find opponents. I offered my services and promptly became the miniatures Coordinator with the job of helping wargamers find opponents. You will be surprised to find that when most fantasy gamers think of wargaming, they think of the AVALON HILL boardgame type. They don't realize that there are a lot of people out there who like to fight their battles with miniatures. The address for BAGA is BAGA, 3882 LaCosta Ln., Largo, FL 34641. Membership costs $5 but you get to buy your gaming supplies for 10% off at participating retailers. Also had a chance to play P'o Hu, the Ancient Chinese rules at a local convention in Orlando, FL called WARZONE. They worked beautifully and I intend to run them again at the SUNCOAST SKIRMISHERS convention this fall. Thanks to Michael Huskey for the rules. Also I want to thank Dan Rakowski for his BROWN PAPER TERRAIN MAPS article in your famous scenery issue of MWAN #33. It served me well for the three games I ran.
From Constantin Wilhelms
Re Michael Egan's letter; the C&S SOURCEBOOK II is a supplement for the old FGU fantasy roleplaying game CHIVALRY AND SORCERY. It includes additional information for adventurers, like magic, picking locks, etc., and a strategic warfare and siege system which works remarkably well. If Michael still needs the information, he should feel free to contact me. By the way, C&S is one of those games I often wish to use for a long wargaming campaign. A nice feature of the game is that it includes a good tactical (SOURCEBOOK I) and strategical warfare system and role-playing rules, which may be used without magic or other fantasy elements. I used it for two small campaigns, medieval and renaissance, but never had the time to start a long one.
From Richard Brooks
Am in the middle of a major campaign on the NW Frontier, circa 1890, with a major invasion of India through Afghanistan by the Imperial Russian Army. I am writing this up 'a la' Stevenson with fictitious newspaper accounts and hope you will include this in MWAN when we are finished with the campaign. I have also written up simple new rules for the battles that I will include separately. There are some major differences between our casualty rates and those used in TSATF especially since we are working with a figure scale of 1:5,0 and trying to match casualty rates with real past actions.
I hated to use such a large scale, but don't have the number of troops to use at 1:1 since there are 75,000 Afghans and 125,000 Russians, not to count their camp followers, facing my position, in the Pass. I only have 30,000 British and Indian infantry and 6,000 cavalry to defend it. The dice have proved to be harsh reminders of luck when they informed us that a Russian Imperial Naval fleet with "lots" of troops ships had been spotted in the Middle Atlantic heading south. Sixty days from arriving off the coast of Karachi. WWI may begin here.
From Dave Ottney
I feel a Hal Thinglum specter has descended on my painting table. I picked up some 200 plastic Gallic types at HISTORICON to build an army to play against David Sweet, one of my gaming buddies. Dave has been in this hobby with his Dad, Charles, since the early days of Scruby and Allemar and has a great many 20mm figures. Being on vacation this summer, I had the Monday after the convention to look at what I had picked up and to set about painting the stuff. Two days later 170 Gallic foot warriors were painted and based. Whew, that was fun but now on to the cavalry. There are no 20mm Gallic available so I had the forethought to buy some Napoleonic light cavalry with conversions in mind. Out with the Exacto knife and off with their heads (their hats, really). The notable sculptor and friend, Joel Haas, had spent a great deal of time with me at HISTORICON explaining sculpting and casting techniques. One of the most important things he showed me was an epoxy used for plumbing that he uses for sculpting. This stuff is a strip of yellow and blue epoxy called Ribbon Epoxy that you "squish" together to make a green colored material which is then applied to an armature or cut down plastic figure and sculpted. It is put out by DUCO and is available at hardware stores. With this in hand I set about changing the Napoleonic cavalryman into Gallic cavalry by removing the uniform detail and then adding the appropriate cloaks, hair and helmets. The saddle furniture as then removed from the horses and the mounts were ready. Finally picked up some wagon wheels by STONE MOUNTAIN and built my chariots.
As a sidenote on painting technique, I heard from one of my friends at HISTORICON about an army he had seen weathered and shaded with stain. Yep, real live wood stain! So I figured I hadn't expended a lot of money on this army so I'd give it a try. Out with some MINWAX wood stain and on with a liberal wash of the stuff to get some real nice shading effects. Each figure was completely washed and came out looking great. I would recommend it for armies needing that kind of weathered look. All in all the army was completed with a carrying case by the Friday after HISTORICON(This specter of a Midwesterner kept appearing around the room, but seeing as though I have a mustache and wear glasses, the family thought it was some sort of holographic self portrait projected from my computer!). I've been on painting jags before but not like this one! Somebody asked me why I painted a 20mm army, knowing that I've been changing from 15mm to 25mm and an outspoken proponent of the latter scale at our local club. well, having read articles in MWAN and seeing some of the new offerings in this scale, I couldn't resist! There seems to be more and more becoming available in this scale and I had a bunch of it from my early days in wargaming. Not only are the plastics, which are beautifully detailed, becoming more broad but the lead lines are expanding.
I think there are four companies out with 20mm Napoleonic lines. While I'll not give up on 25mm, 20mm will definitely be in the running for new projects. One of these are sculpting masters for a 20mm Persian army and possibly some Greeks. The Persians will be used to face Dave's Greeks and the Greeks will supplement his stuff. Both the Greeks and Persians are easy subjects to begin sculpting and casting. A final note about your F&IW endeavors. I use Bill Protz's rules for the AWI and F&IW. You can field any size units you like and the rules work. My AWI units range from 18-36 figures with adhoc units of varying sizes depending on the scenario. I have them based individually (skirmish types) and three to a base (formed units - I haven't converted to moving all those little guys individually). I have put on games at conventions and club meetings using DRUMS and found them easy to grasp. More importantly I find they give you that "feel" for the period and make you look at what's happening on the table instead of at charts. You have to use your head and apply tactics not rules to your games. I recommend them highly!
From Dan Groves
I had a heart attack in February and would certainly not recommend it to anyone, but as a result of having to be off work for over a month with only the requirement of walking 45 minutes a day, I was able to spend a lot of time on the hobby that I would not have otherwise. I painted figures and read history books for most of the free time. Some what I read included: Oman's HISTORY OF THE ART OF WAR IN THE 16TH CENTURY, Taylor's THE ART OF WAR IN ITALY 1494-1529, and Hans Delbruck's 4 volume HISTORY OF THE ART OF WAR. The later is recently released in paperback at a cost of over $80 and is highly recommended. It covers war up to the French Revolutionary period. Delbruck had only been translated into English seven years ago and I have seen sets listed at over $150 in used book catalogs. His detail is wonderful. I especially liked the ancient and Pike & Shot coverage.
Any gamer from the Greeks to the Tricorne would find something new here! The one great truth to come to me after having the heart attack is that life is short and one should try to get the most out of it if he/she can. If one is a wargamer, life is too short to argue rules, game with people you do not like, use rules you do not like, and find stress in a hobby that should be used to remove stress from everyday life. I find now that I appreciate my hobby more than before the attack - if that is possible! I still waste time reading in periods I will never game, writing rules that I will never play, the difference is I don't worry about it anymore or care what other gamers think. So what if I can't seem to get my SYW rules the way I ant them. All wargaming is fantasy anyway so if the rules work smoothly and produce a result that fits historical precedent that is all that is needed. I am just going to game and not worry about it anymore.
(Editor's Note: Good to hear from you again, Dan, and glad to hear that you are doing well after your heart attack!)
From James Kocur
The HISTORICON convention is only a series of pleasant memories and I for one wish to thank the organizers and volunteers for providing a memorable forum for gaming and spending. Was quite impressed with several games, both those which I participated in as well as those I observed. Gaudalcanal was a huge undertaking with good looking terrain. Chris Hughes did a very nice looking Am Rev game on an L-shaped field complete with woodland critters. Mark Stevens had an interesting Napoleon in Egypt game using burlap for the ground base. I felt it had a texture which beat out tan or brown felt by a mile.
A US vs Samurai game featured an impressive screw sloop. Duke Seifried ran two games, an ancient and a colonial, both with his customary gorgeous yet functional terrain. Our local club, THE SOLDIERS OF THE FIFTH, was well represented and we all had a good time. I bagged my quota of three Mexican bandits as Lee in Tod Kershner's very enjoyable Magnificent Seven game. John Suzansky and I lost out WWI tanks in one of Mike Kraybill's well run Brew-up games. I had the opportunity to listen to Paddy Griffith's talk on the power of the rifle in the ACW but feel as though he made a few valid points and many in the audience were prepared to disagree no matter what he said, I just don't feel that he ever really proved his point. He admitted that his research was weak and maybe he just had a bad day presentation wise, but my main question still goes unanswered; If the rifles really didn't make much of a difference, why did almost everybody who was armed with something else earlier end up armed with rifles by the last third of the war?"
It was a great pleasure to meet and listen to Don Featherstone. His anecdotes were charming and amusing. I have another GREAT MYTHS to propose if Tom Barkalow doesn't mind. This one was inspired by Dean West's article in ROUTS AND RALLIES although JOHNNY REB is far from being the only guilty set of rules, ACW or otherwise. (1) Your regiment is in some woods; suddenly an entire friendly regiment comes crashing back from your front in panic. Your men check morale and depending upon their present status (and your luck), they either pass or fail. (2) Same situation but this time your men totally ignore the crash of 400 men, dispersed or otherwise, into their ranks as you calmly assure them, "It's OK, boys ... they're only skirmishers." Forgive me for being obtuse but I fail to see the relevance of a fleeing unit's former formation when most fleeing units don't have much of a formation when they are fleeing. It seems to be that the NUMBER of men yelling a Pythonesque "Run away - run away" is a darn sight more pertinent than whether they had been standing one foot or ten feet apart several hundred yards ago. Almost needless to say, both our own homegrown Napoleonic rules and our heavily modified CIRCA 1863 set reflect this belief. The ratio of numbers to numbers would override any former spacing or most mission considerations. And another thing, how many ACW rule sets have you seen which are structured to easily allow melees to go on and on for several turns, a rarity in real war yet have casualty rates and morale rules that rarely see you getting locked into prolonged firefights, a much more common occurrence? One more minor point; it never ceases to amaze me how various ACW rules sets leave out "little" things like skirmishing, realistic counter-battery fire results and weapon or ammo variations but every single bloody set goes to great length to cover lancers! There was only one well-documented regiment and they didn't even keep their lances for the whole war!
(Editor's Note: I think you answered many of your own questions, Jim, when you stated that you have heavily modified CIRCA 1863; if we don't like the way a certain rules set handles issues re a period, we can always change them. I, for one, would never include weapon variations - except for carbines vs muskets - in the ACW as I want my games to move quickly. I feel that it all depends upon what the individual rules writer is attempting to accomplish.)
From Mark Stevens
HISTORICON was great! The dealer rooms were like an enormous hobby shop just for miniature gamers. I met Donald Featherstone -- he is very nice. I put on four games; Sikh Wars, Pershing Expedition 1916, Riel Rebellion 1885, and Egypt 1801. All of the games went very well and the gamers seemed to have a good time. Picked up some new Maximillian figures for Mexico, 1860's from PENDRAGON. These new WARGAMES FOUNDRY figures are beautiful - French in various dress, Zouaves, Mexicans (regular and irregular), Belgians -- a wonderful range. I expect someone to be doing Cameron at one of the upcoming conventions. You may be able to use some of the French in overcoats and short jackets but they look very 1860'ish and have rifle muskets. Larry Brom is building a French army to fight an American ACW army in a fictional war. I've got irregular Mexicans in my 1830's force so it will be easy to start a new period. I talked with the sculptor from OLD GLORY. He's preparing a range of miniatures for the period 1820's-60's in India; figures for the 1st Afghan War, Sikh Wars, Mutiny. These will be smaller 25mm and compatible with WARGAMES FOUNDRY, DIXON, and MINIFIG. He's also redesigning the Mexican War figures to fit more with Frontier and Dixon. the originals are truly works of art. The new PASS OF THE NORTH figures are beautiful - as good as any. I already had many of the old FRONTIER Pershing figures (now OUTPOST from MODELER'S MART) but the new ones were so nice I had to expand my army. Jeff Caruso is open to suggestions for figures for this range. I'm hoping for Marines in battered campaign hats for the 1920's-30's. Lots of tommyguns, BAR's, Lewis guns, shotguns, etc. I noticed a new distributor for MIRLITON figures in the US: GKG Gaming, 86 Regan Rd., Ridgefield, CT 06877 (203-431-8726). These are nice figures, many for the 1859-66 period of Italian history and many Napoleonics.
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