After you had looked at the title you probably thought that this is not something you need to read. Well, that is most likely a very wrong assumption! And its for your own good, let alone the your troopers that you do so!! So, now that my pompous statements have been said, on we go.
I feel that after you have spent all that time figuring out what miniatures to buy, the number you need, the amount you can spend, not including the time spent just finding the right period, army, regiments, etc., a small amount of time on the preparation will solve a lot of headaches layer on as time and handling take their toll.
First thing to do is make a quick guestimate on how many figures you paint in a couple of evenings (that's usually when most of us have time). That is probably in the 30 to 40 figure range. If you are slower, like myself, 15 is enough. Next you pull out those files and exacto knives (or eqivalent) and go over each one taking off all extra flash and those nasty casting lines.
Then, getting a bowl from your kitchen to hold them all, take them to the bathroom, put a little liquid soap in the middle of them and fill the bowl up with water. What you say! All my poor little guys will drown! No, they won't and this step is very important! Most people do not do this and wonder why the paint on their miniatures chips off later on even after they have so carefully primed them. Well, this is why; those figures still had metal dust on them, embedded talcomb powder that the manufacturer used to keep the figure from sticking to his mold and other assorted items like hand grease, machine oil, etc. If this junk is not taken off, the primer and paint will just cover it and you will have little mountains all over your figure that the naked eye will not be able to make out and after handling the figures, these high spots will start cracking off.
Now that they are in the bowl, take an old toothbrush and scrub each one down quickly and rinse it in clean water. Put them on a towel and pat them dry; don't rub them or all those bayonets and swords will break off. Now look in the bowl; see all that yuch on the bottom and notice that the figures a lot shinier! That is why washing them is important.
Back at the work table with the dry figures it will be easier to paint and handle the miniatures if they are glued to something in groups; that way you do not keep rubbing off paint and the delicate parts do not start breaking off after you are half the way through (nothing is more depressing!). I use the wooden craft sticks, otherwise known as popsicle sticks. They can be purchased at most hobby stores or craft stores for about a dollar or two for one hundred sticks. You can use just about anything but I found that the sticks can be reused over and over again. They also make great paint stirrers. For the single cavalry figures I use alligator clips screwed on a thin plastic card, it works great for Mini-Figs but I have yet to solve the problem on the other manufacturers. Any suggestions?
Now glue the figures to each stick, for 25nm figures, you can put three or possibly four figures on each one; any more than that and you will not be able to paint inbetween each one. For 15mm, a perfect number is five. The glue to use is a white glue, such as Elmers or anything cheap. The reason for this type is that it holds the figure snuggly on the stick and after you have finished painting them, they very easily pop off and the glue stays on the stick, not the figure since it is a wood glue. There are other types such as rubber cement but it is much more expensive and half the jar usually evaporates before you ever see it and cheap is what we are after. Once they are glued, it will take awhile for the glue to set before you can prime them. I usually wait overnight but on rush ocassions, about an hour or two will suffice. You can spend the time collecting the painting guides you will need.
Last, but not least, get out that primer. Notice I have used the word "primer", not white paint. Primer is especially made for adhering to the metal on the figure and providing a painting surface to be used. White paint will not do this or any other paint, that is why they made primer. It has a different chemical makeup designed just for that purpose. I have read and seen too many "expert" painters advise the white paint idea. It is a bad route to follow, if you do not believe me, just call the Polly S people, the Testors or any other paint manufacturer. They will be glad to talk to you or send you some hard data. After the primer has dried, you are all set to go and start making those figures come alive.
Well, that about concludes this little lesson and I hope you have been "straightened out" on these matters. The whole process only will take about half an hour (not including glue drying time) and your Hoplites will thank you for it!
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© Copyright 1986 Hal Thinglum
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