The majority of my solo games have my forces attacking and the defenders on 'auto pilot'. This does not mean I weight the advantages all in favour of the attacker. Far from it, and I will now discuss the various systems and methods I use and the reasoning (!) thoughts behind them. It should be pointed out that this is the way I play a solo game because it is the way that I personally get the most satisfaction out of it. To ensure a good game, by which I mean one where the outcome is always in the balance, I give the defenders orders that are appropriate to: Their type. The situation they find themselves in. The terrain. In the event that I have to change orders during a battle, which I will discuss in depth later, due to an unforeseen circumstance arising then I use a basic set of Standing Operating Procedures (SOPs). For example, “enemy is running away - pursue and destroy”, or “threatened by cavalry - hold formation” (thinking of spear/pike armed units here), etc. If all else fails, I have to use unbiased commonsense. To have a good solo game it is essential to act and play in an unbiased manner, which is easier said than done but to my mind is the essence of a good solo battle. It is not easy and I admit to having strayed from the straight and narrow on the occasion when one of my favourite units was in jeopardy. However, I do roundly chastise myself for it afterwards! Honest! A vital part of a wargame which I find is missing, in most multi-player games, is the 'Fog of War' element and without it a wargame, in my opinion, is just a game of chess played with a wider variety of figures, moves, etc. In order to ensure that I have to earn my salt as a commander, I set up a game in a time-honoured sequence, using my own ideas, those taken from Lone Warrior and my personal experience of what it is like to traverse countryside with a load on ones back. Depending on the game, be it a 'one-off' or part of a campaign, I will know what the situation is and what the general terrain is that I will be fighting over. I have not done a full-blown campaign for years and have developed a system where I have a linked series of battles, which form a kind of campaign. The logistical and administrative side of a campaign holds no interest for me whatsoever and although I am fully aware that an army marches on its stomach, I prefer to ignore this fact in most cases. When using certain armies, like the Mongols, I am not far away from the historical facts, but an army that marched from the city of Rome would have a considerable logistic train involved in its campaigns. I have used logistical resources as a reason for a battle to be fought and this can give the game quite a different edge. Imagine a force that is in dire need of water, but the way to it is blocked by an aggressive enemy and they must be defeated, before the thirst can be quenched. Throw in a few 'specials'; in that if a unit has a clear run to the water, does it ignore its orders and go for a drink or fight on with a thirst? A simple die throw will provide the answer to this, to which a gamer can add that after 'x' amount of game moves, the efficiency of a unit will decline, in a manner to be decided by the soloist i.e. If no water taken by game move 6, then the unit will have a -1 on all its physical actions, namely movement, missile fire and combat. Adds a bit more pressure to the game. I suppose if I wanted to include logistics in the game, then I could use the Aide de Camp service of the Solo Wargamers Association. Terrain For the purpose of this article the battle will be a 'one-off', but linked one. I have a set of maps or Terrain Cards, which give me a varied type of countryside to fight over. There are ten of these cards and I just throw a D10 and take out the card which corresponds with the number thrown. The cards are divided into 6 segments and I then throw a D6 to find out where the defenders are located and the attackers will come on from the opposite side/end of the table. I obviously have the full knowledge of the terrain layout, something that satellite mapping may have given to modern day commanders but prior to that the commander would have been at the mercy of his intelligence gathering sources. Wellington's map in the Royal Engineers Museum in Chatham, Kent, demonstrates this far better than any other means I know. If there was a scale I never saw it and it is the most basic of coloured drawings. No Ordnance Survey stuff for the Duke and I try my best to ensure that the same applies for me. The table is set-up in accordance with the Terrain Cards and I then draw a map for the attackers (me) and place my units on it with arrows demonstrating their line of advance. Order are given, in a general manner, for each command i.e. Take and hold that hill directly to your front. Note: As of yet I have no idea where the defenders are actually going to be, but am relying upon my superior expertise as a commander to out guess them. [Yawn] I now throw a D4 which shows; 1 = 1 piece of terrain; 2 = 2 pieces of terrain, 3 = 1 piece of terrain moved in a random fashion; 4 = 2 pieces of terrain moved in a random fashion. The pieces, either new or to be moved, are positioned in the defenders part of the battlefield, in accordance with a D6 Grid: 1 2 3 4 5 6 Type of terrain is generated from a simple list: 1 = Open Wood; 2 = Small Hill; 3 = Closed Wood; 4 = Steep Hill; 5 = Marsh and 6 = Pond. Size of features depends on what you have available in your terrain box. With these new features in place I now do a map and write simple orders for the defenders. This is the advantage of fighting on your own territory and should have caused a few glitches in my well thought out plan of attack. It could throw them into complete chaos, but that is the idea! Summary Attackers battle plan based upon original map, which was somewhat inaccurate. Whereas defenders plan based on correct topographical features. Scouting Scouting by the attacking force could reveal the correct terrain features but by the time they have found it/them and reported back, there would be no time to alter the orders for the frontline troops, except by personally intervention by me! Obviously I am aware of the deployment and orders of the defenders but the orders for the attackers have been written and can only be changed by me. More of that later. If I have a 2:1 advantage in Light Cavalry, then 50% of the defenders front line units are placed on the table. [Now this could cause a change in tactics, but not orders, for localised units. A unit ordered to take a hill will do so but their approach maybe different depending upon what awaits them on the summit. If it is a line of skirmishers, just plod on upwards and brush them out of the way, but if it is a unit of tough looking heavy infantry then the advance maybe a little more reserved]. Get the idea? Should I have a 3:1 advantage, then all the defender’s front line would be placed upon the table. Scouts have order to report on units, not terrain and always obey their orders. Summary Despite the terrain changes, the scouts report back, if they have sufficient superiority in numbers, on the enemy dispositions. However, it is much too late to change the Master Plan. On the order side of life I prefer to brigade my units irrespective of the army I am using because it cuts down on the amount of orders I have to write and also it is mostly historically correct. Every unit on the table must come under the 'orders umbrella'. [An aside: I have often watched tournament players (a strange and wonderful breed) battering away at shows and have often wondered how they would get on if they had to submit a plan of action with corresponding orders to the umpire prior to the start of the game. Their general-ship would be truly tested, rather than their chess-like skill, which is what they appear to demonstrate to me. Still, if they are happy and it is only a hobby when all is said and done, good luck to them!] Change of orders Now I game in the pre-radio eras, but there again incidents of wrong batteries and codes in WWII come to mind, but I digress. My Mongols and Romans have a very good well-documented method of distance communication during combat but the rest of my trusty warriors were not so fortunate and once the plan was drawn up, that was it! I allow my Mongols a D4 throw number of units/commands to change their orders just before the game commences and the Romans have the opportunity of one command doing so. I feel this is realistic and although it gives an advantage to these two armies, it is something they enjoyed during their period of historical martial superiority. My other armies can only have a unit's orders changed by a visit by the figure representing me and unfortunately he does not ride Pegasus. I ride up to the commander of the unit, stay there 1 Game Move, and then depart, leaving the unit with new orders from details obtained by my scouts or seen personally by my figure. [I have a periscope, which gives me a 15mm figure's view of the terrain!] This means I have done away with the 'god-like' orders used by most wargamers of my acquaintanceship and really have to use the grey matter to get a favourable result. Summary Needless to say I know the orders for both sides and their dispositions, but by the methods described so far I have managed to thwart my original attacking plan and given me quite a few tactic problems to overcome. Military Factor Time for an added, uncontrollable factor, in order to increase the realism for me. Each command and unit commander has his/her (I do have female units) 'Military Factor', randomly given. Roll a D6: 1 = Rash - Irrespective of orders will advance to engage the nearest enemy. 2 - 4 = Obedient - Obeys orders to the letter. 5 = Confused - Spends 1 Game Move doing nothing then obeys his orders to the letter. 6 = Wary - Will only advance/attack on a throw of '4' on a D4. In defence, will withdraw at half speed towards the baseline on a throw of '6' on a D6, which is thrown every move. Unit COmmanders Types of unit commanders can be known prior to deployment and as the overall commander, one can take their strengths or weaknesses into consideration. In the past I have known I had a 'wary' commander with one of my top units and just made sure that I was able to ride over and command them myself! Military genius or what! Now, working on the principle that you can only truly know a person when they are put under pressure/stress, then leave the assessment of their 'Military Factors', until just before the first game move. Warning: This is not for those of a nervous disposition. Summary Must decide the priority of visits to change orders for my units and just hope that their commanders are up to the tasks set them. Battle Sart The battle is now about to start and I am well aware of the exact movement distances my many and varied units can move in a game move, irrespective of the type of terrain they are moving through. However, I believe most battles took place in the countryside and were not decided on a level parade square-type of terrain. Accordingly I use a modified version of the 'Card and Die' system published in Lone Warrior. I have two dice (just to speed things up, this can be done using just one), both were blank and I painted each: +2, -2, +1, -1, N and N. With 'N' standing for normal movement allowance. When a unit is due to move a 'Movement Die' is thrown for it and the result taken into consideration when the full movement distance is calculated. Example: Two units of cavalry are to advance and their normal movement distance is 12". Unit 'A' throws a +2 and moves 14", whereas Unit 'B' throws a -2 and only moves 10". Suddenly things are not going in accordance with the Master Plan. You will be amazed how much this die can alter your plans and the rationale behind it is that no battle was ever fought on a billiard/snooker table surface. I rest my case. Summary The pristine alignment and scientifically estimate movement distance is no more and the trials and tribulations of fighting over realistic terrain are now included. Pet Hates!? Local/own rules based on personal experience and preference. Open Wood This is accessible to Light Infantry and Light Cavalry at normal speed, others at half speed. Extra Heavy Troops, pike units and wheeled vehicles must keep to the roads or march around the trees. Closed Wood Accessible only to Light Infantry, who move at half speed through the trees. Throw a 'Deviation Die' each game move part of a unit is in the wood; 1 & 2 = 45° Left, 3 & 4 = Planned route, 5 & 6 = 45° Right. For those who have never tried to bash their way through a thick wood or forest, you will have to trust me, it is extremely tiring and very easy to get disoriented. Steep Hill Light Infantry no restriction, because that is what they are paid for. Remaining troops move at half speed and stop every other move to get their breath back. No heavily armoured Roman Legionaries bounding up near sheer cliff-like faces, imitating young mountain goats on my battlefield! I consider this a legitimate rule and if you don't believe me, then just find yourself a nice steep hill then try to run up it, in the modern imitation of a charge. There is no need to carry any weight and you can drive to the hill in your car, but please let me know how you get on. If you are successful and are able to engage in hard physical combat at the top, I will see if I can arrange for you to face some opposition in the future. I have a few contacts in the re-engagement societies. Wheeled vehicle drivers have the intelligence to drive around the hill and do not attempt to go up and over. Swamp/Marsh For the purpose of a game I count them impassable for all troops. The reason being, for those who have tramped over Dartmoor and like places, is that one is so concentrated upon standing on a non-sinking piece of ground that the thought of actually fighting is of secondary importance. Habitation The size of a village and above: all units move at half speed. Town and above: all units must be in column of march when passing through it. I quite like the Fire & Fury system for dealing with habitation, in that it is put on the table but when it comes to combat and I am thinking village or small town now, it disappears! Sensible when you think about it. Even a small brigade would overflow a small town in the ACW and I think that would apply throughout history. [An aside: Ever noticed how buildings on a wargames table appear to act like magnets?] [Gets off soapbox]. Preliminaries Over There is quite a bit of preparation goes into one of my games when I write it down like this and I have not even touched on the armies or the reason they are fighting! However, I do believe that this is necessary to bring in fairly realistic but simple systems which do away with the chess-like approach, often seen (and participated in) both in solo and multi-player. I am very fortunate in that I use the Warhammer Ancient Battles rules and supplements combined with the army lists; Army Builder. This means that I can produce an army list, having input it into my computer previously, with just a few taps on the keyboard and I am ready to go. Only thing I have to add is the commanders' 'Military Factors' and I am ready to rumble. Now these systems and methods are presented just to give you an idea of how I personally go about a solo wargame in most periods. Needless to say, I have special rules for certain periods to ensure that I have the correct flavour for the battle. For example, a battle with samurai is set-up in a different way and using different terrain to one involving my New Kingdom Egyptians. Use these ideas, amend them or ignore them at your whim but all I can say is that they work for me. No claim to originality is made and I would like to thank the contributors to Lone Warrior who unselfishly have increased my pleasure, from their articles, in my solo wargaming. I am in the midst of setting up a game, using my samurai at the moment on the great terrain created for me by Kris Constable and I will keep a record and let you know how I get on. It looks quite daunting at present and I have not even finished putting all the terrain out. Back to Table of Contents -- Lone Warrior #136 Back to Lone Warrior List of Issues Back to MagWeb Magazine List © Copyright 2001 by Solo Wargamers Association. 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