Introduction
The first figures or rules I ever bought came in the form of a Tabletop Games Napoleonic Starter set. The two 15mm French and Russian armies have slowly over the years grown in size, become repainted, re-based, stored and repeatedly dusted off to try out with new rules. In the midst of a good rethink recently, I decided that these old faithfulls should be brought into the light again. My problem was, like most people, I was never too happy with whatever rules I was using. So, I thought I'd start from the beginning and do my own, a set that would give me exactly what I wanted as a solo player.
My first thought was that although I wanted to keep a feeling that some aspect of historical simulation was going on, unless I moved to 6mm and started to field entire divisions or corps on the table, I was not going to be simulating Napoleonic warfare as I understood it, with only a couple of brigades a side. I realised that basically I wanted 'Toy Soldier' rules that were fun but that really emphasised the Napoleonic tactics of Cavalry vs Square, Column vs Line and so on. Bearing that in mind, I made the following decisions:
1. I had no intention of removing figures from units to represent casualties. I prefer the 'element' approach, and felt that attrition through casualties and morale could be more simply defined. Because of this, and because the formation adopted was more important than the size of a unit, all my units were to be a standard size, regardless of nationality, and a Hit Point system would be used.
2. I would definitely use an alternate movement system. Simply because I like it.
3. I hate all the piddly little measurements and shuffling of figures that goes on when units start overlapping in a melee. It probably accurately reflects the chaos of the thing, but it seems to me to distract from the point of it all. I wanted melees to be fast and decisive.
4. Following on from that thought, I decided that the inconsistent use of the tape measure was something I could do without altogether, so I binned it!
The results were something like a 3D board game, I suppose. Simplistic in the extreme, but I enjoy them. They could probably stand a LOT of play testing, but the couple of games I have had with my occasional opponent have gone very smoothly. Nothing seemed particularly unfair or arbitrary and although the emphasis was on the fun of it, there were definite advantages to employing the correct tactics and, always a good yardstick, neither of us finished the day's gaming with a headache!
Requirements
The Table. I use a 6 x 4 table, but there is no real limit, the bigger the better. I divide the entire playing surface into a grid of 6 inch squares. Again, the size can vary, but I've found this the most comfortable. On my usual table this gives me a surface of 12 x 8 squares. The grid is marked out by using trees, single skirmish figures, fields, hedges etc. to define edges and corners of the squares. This doesn't deface your playing surface and can actually look quite good! Each square is a specific terrain type and designated as Soft, Hard Cover or Impassable if necessary.
Dice Loads of six sided dice (D6).
The Figures As long as units can fit in the squares comfortably and can represent their formations, then it really doesn't matter. I base my infantry battalions on four 30 x 30mm elements, each with about 6 figures, thus a 24 figure unit. Cavalry are on similar bases but usually number 9 to 12 figures. Each Artillery battery is represented by a single gun with crew on a 45 x 45mm base, or a limbered base of 30 x 90mm. All Generals are based separately. I also use separate 60 x 30mm Light Infantry bases to represent detached company screens.
The Units All units are assigned a number of Hit Points. The values can vary according to taste but typically I assign an Infantry battalion or Cavalry regiment with 8 points and an Artillery battery with 4. Elite or poor quality units are adjusted accordingly. The main thing to bear in mind is that when a unit reaches half of its original total it is SHAKEN.
Light Infantry Screens These are single bases attached to the front of the parent unit. They do not fire, melee or move separately and have special rules regarding their effect, being markers to indicate screens rather than actual elements. Separate Light Infantry units are fielded by grouping a number of these bases together, the normal rules regarding other units apply to them.
Record cards are used to keep a tally on the Hit Points of a Unit, plus whether or not they are SHAKEN.
Playing The Game
Command System. There is no command system! No, what I mean is that whatever command system suits you, use it. I use PIPs (similar to DBM), command cards, written orders, whatever suits me on the day. This is one of the most important aspects of a wargame, particularly for Solo play, and most people have a system they prefer to use. I seem to use the PIP or command points system the most, to stay in keeping with the simple feel of the rules.
Deployment. Usually I prefer to use a scenario rather than line them up and go, but generally deployment within the first two squares from the base line gets units to grips fairly quickly.
Turn Sequence:
- 1. Side A moves Generals/Couriers then rolls for PIPs/ assigns commands or Orders
2. Move ALL Routers and Pursuers in contact
3. Side A moves, manoeuvres, rallies (using PIPs)
4. Both Fire
5. Both Melee
6. Swap over to Side B and repeat above
Movement and Manoevres. Only one unit may occupy any one square, unless in melee (see later). The unit must be in a clearly displayed formation and either facing an edge or on the diagonal. Detached light infantry screens are placed in contact with the front of the relevant unit. (Only one base per unit, separate light battalions being fielded as entire units).
- All Infantry 1 Square forward
Cavalry 2 squares
Limb Art 1 square
Limb Horse Art 2 squares
- A turn of 45 degrees is free
90° or more = 1 square of movement
Woods and steep hills not usually accessible to any but light Infantry units
To change formation = whole turn
-
If using PIPs most actions require 1 PIP except:
SHAKEN cost 2 to move closer to enemy
Rallying from Rout/Pursuit costs 3 or 2 PIPs
Contact. To contact unit enters enemy square (Max 2 units per square). The contacted unit turns to face. If an Infantry unit is charged by Cavalry from 2 squares away, it may attempt to form square. (Light Infantry units Evade).
The Infantry unit rolls a D6. SHAKEN 3+ OK, Others 2+ OK. If successful, Infantry form square and Cavalry may halt after 1 square movement. Units in adjacent squares to Flank/Rear of enemy may 'support' melee.
Routers/Pursuers. These units remain in contact in the same square and move in the relevant phase toward the Router's baseline by the shortest route, Pursuers inflicting free hits every turn. If Routers meet friends, they pass through to the rear inflicting 1 Hit Point enroute. The Pursuer must continue to make contact with the fresh unit and counts as if charging with Impact.
Interception of Pursuit. If, at the start of Phase 2, (the 'Move Routers and Pursuers' phase), a unit is placed facing the square containing the Routers/Pursuers and not blocking their path, the Pursuer must break off and turn to face the intercepting unit. It may now make contact with the intercepting unit or attempt to rally
Blocked Units. A unit may not move diagonally through a gap between two enemy units, unless one or both are in square or in a built-up area.
Firing. Light Infantry may move and fire. Horse Artillery may unlimber and fire. Infantry column and all others moving cannot fire in the same turn. (Ignore the free 45° turn.) See the diagrams below for the relevant fields of fire.
In order to score hits on a target unit, the firer rolls the number of D6 indicated on the chart and must score the 'To Hit' or above. Do not add the die totals.
The 'To Hit' score is modified by +1 if:
- Infantry firing first volley
Target is Square, Infantry column or limbered Artillery
| Unit | D6 | To hit |
|---|---|---|
| Infantry | 4 | 6 |
| Light Infantry | 3 | 6 |
| Artillery (close) | 6 | 5,6 |
| Artillery (long) | 3 | 6 |
| Horse Artillery | 3 | 6 |
| Infantry in Square | 1 | 6 |
| Fire from a building | -1 | -- |
For each hit, the target unit rolls a D6 to try and Save or cancel out (Yes, a very old one this! Think of it as 'Steady lads!')
To save, the unit needs a 5 or 6. Modify the die roll ..
-
-1 The Unit is SHAKEN
-1 Firer is Heavy Artillery
+1 Light Infantry
+1 Deployed Artillery
+1 In cover
+2 In buildings
Each Hit point not saved is removed from the target total. At half its original the unit is SHAKEN, when it reaches zero, the unit is destroyed.
Infantry skirmish screens. Infantry units represented as screened may re-roll any one D6 to save. A screening element may be fired at as a separate target by Light Infantry units or other screens. Simply roll D6 per Light Infantry element or screen. Highest wins. If the screen loses it is driven off and removed from play.
Melees. Melees take place when two units contact in the same square. Only two units make contact at any one time although friendly units in adjacent squares and facing the flank or rear of an enemy may count as supporting.
The melee is broken down into two phases which are worked out one after the other in the same turn (part 5). There is always a definite conclusion to the combat at the end of the second phase, with one side or both withdrawing or routing or pursuing. The method is as follows:
In the first phase both sides roll a number of D6 (Infantry/Cavalry units 4D6, Artillery 2D6). For a supporting unit roll an extra 2D6. Each 6 is scored as a Hit. To this number of Hits the Combat Factor is added. Modifiers are then applied, giving a total attack or Melee factor.
In the first phase a unit moving in a straight line vs a stationary unit adds IMPACT (*). The 2 units totals are compared. The higher score, if any, is the winner of that phase. The difference in scores is applied to the loser's Hit Points total. The loser at this point may become SHAKEN or destroyed.
| Modify | Combat Factor | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SHAKEN -1 | Versus-> | Inf Line | Column | Square | Lt Inf | Lt Cav | Cav | Art Crew |
| Lost 1st Phase -1 | Inf Line | 3 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 3 | 2 | 6 |
| Cover/Bldgs +1/+2 | Column | 5/3 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 6 |
| Lancers 1st Phase +1 | Square | 2 | 3 | 1 | 2 | 6 | 5 | 3 |
| Pursuer Intercepted -1 | Lt Inf | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| Lt Cav | 3 | 3 | 1 | 5 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
| Cav | *4/2 | 3 | 1 | 5 | 5 | *3/1 | 6 | |
| Art Crew | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | |
A 2nd phase is now fought in the same manner as the first, applying an additional modifier for the winner of the first phase. When both phases are complete, consult the Combat Results chart.
Routs and Pursuits are carried out in the following turn, the units simply being turned at this point to indicate their state. Units withdrawing will always do so in the most direct line away from their opponent as possible. If their route is blocked, another may be taken. If all routes are blocked, the unit passes through its friends, both suffering an extra Hit point.
Morale and Winning. In line with my thoughts on Command and Control, there is room for quite a bit of flexibility and personalization here. One system I use is to total the Hit Points in a Brigade and work out what cumulative total I feel the Brigade will take before becoming broken. Typically, half the total. Once this figure has been reached, the entire Brigade becomes SHAKEN.
For the entire army, or force on the table, I decide how many units in total can be SHAKEN or LOST before the command gives in. Again, I use half as a benchmark but apply factors like campaign history or a defensive position, or a charismatic leader.
An Example Record Card
More Ideas: DIY Micro Games (LW 134)
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