I just got back from a much needed mini-vacation. Before the weather turned to total crud, I decided to go to my favorite Kentucky battlefield, Perryville. Perryville has grown from a 98 acre park to almost 600 acres of interpreted battlefield, with nearly six miles of trails. The hiking gods were kind and give me some sunny weather, albeit with cool temperatures, to hike the Perryville battlefield again.

At the last stop of the hike, I noticed another mown trail where one had not been before, so I set off. Six more stops will be added shortly to the tour, adding another mile or so to the overall walk. This newly acquired land is west and north of the current walking trail. There is a modern house that still needs to be torn down, and the signs still need to be installed, but the Perryville folks continue to save and interpret this battlefield, wonderfully. Also, the gift shop has been moved in with the museum, in preparation (I believe) for the removal of the old shops (the long term goal is to have the visitor's center in town, and all modern structures removed from the battlefield proper). I did pick up Hafendorfer's latest title, "Wild Cat Mountain," a battle that occurred shortly before Mill Springs.

Pall Mall - Home of Medal of Honor Winner

The next day was overcast and raining as I headed south down US 127 towards Pall Mall, TN. Route 127 goes right through the Lake Cumberland region and crosses over the dam that created the lake. Pall Mall was the home of Alvin C. York, Medal of Honor winner. My folks had stopped here on their way back from Gatlinburg last year, so I decided to check out the place for myself. The road is a bit windy and goes through some rural towns, but at this time of year was an excellent drive, especially because the weather cleared to a sunny, but chilly day. Coming from the north, the first significant site one sees is the York grist mill, an impressive two story structure on the banks of the Wolf River. It was open (meaning the front door was open) and had a few signs telling the casual visitor what each piece of machinery was. The floors are a bit shaky in places, but no worse than my grandfather's barn floor. Just down the road is the York home. This home and 400 acres was given to York after the Great War for his service. More on the home in a moment, because across the road was the York store, the starting place for any York tour. This store is the "visitor center" of the site, having a gift shop and a video presentation on York. I picked up a neat denim shirt and a book for my father. The video is free to watch -- there is no charge anywhere at the York sites.

After satisfying my need for purchases, I headed back across the road to the home site. Oh, remember that York anti-aircraft vehicle that came out in the 80s? They have one right there along the road. Anyway, I entered the house and met one of York's sons (Andrew Jackson York). He has worked at the house for many years. He was full of stories and tidbits, and contrary to the signs that said Do Not Touch, he insisted on visitors picking up and looking at anything they wanted to. Everything in the house was the way is was when Alvin lived there. His medal and Guerre du Croix commendations are proudly displayed on one of the walls. Pictures, furniture, even dishes in the cabinets, everything was as if York was still alive and living there. The best part was chatting with his son. He could talk your ear off if you let him -- really made you feel welcome. From the back of the farm, one could walk about a half mile (over a swinging bridge) to York's burial site. There are lots of Yorks in this cemetery. York was one of 10 children, and had 10-13 (can't remember) himself. As I finished the York tour, it was time to head back towards Somerset, KY, and visit Mill Springs.

Mill Springs

Mill Springs is actually on both sides of the lake (well, the driving tour is at least). I've been to Mill Springs before, in 1996, before they've added a walking tour and interpretive signs. I did not go on the south side of Lake Cumberland to see the actual mill that lends its name to this battle. The mill is not the original, but sits on the same site, and is maintained by the Corps of Engineers. This site is really beautiful, having the historic mill, a waterfall, lake, and an overlook that holds a six pounder! The mill (and the Mill Springs Battlefield bookstore) were closed, but I already have two books on Mill Springs -- it's not like I needed another one! I'm glad I came back to visit this area.

The last day of my trip, I went to the Mill Springs battlefield itself. There is a driving tour one can download from their website, so with that in hand, I headed west from Somerset on KY 80 and was at the Mill Springs National Cemetery after a few minutes. The cemetery is one of the original national cemeteries in the country, and by tuning your radio to their local station you can learn more about the cemetery's history.

The next stop was Zollicofer Park, site of the heaviest fighting. Since I last visited the battlefield, a walking tour of about one mile has been added with several signs. This greatly enhances the visitor's perception of the terrain and what took place at Mill Springs. The area is fairly well-maintained, but the walking tour went through some high grass and steep slopes, so keep that in mind, if planning a trip.

There are several more stops on the driving tour, which heads towards the lake and ends across from the mill itself, on the other side of the lake. These stops all have signs explaining each's significance. The driving tour without going to the mill is about 8 miles altogether.

A fun trip, and now I want to game Mill Springs again...anyone up for it?