My wife and I recently vacationed in northern New York. We visited Niagara Falls, Cooperstown and Hyde Park and other sites. We also visited Fort Niagara. The fort sits where the Niagara River empties into Lake Ontario. As with most forts, this one was selected for its strategic importance. Whoever controls that land controls traffic traversing from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario.

We approached the fort from the south, coming up from Niagara Falls. The fort is 13 miles north of the falls and is easily reached by car. Fort Niagara is in a state park just north of the town of Youngstown, NY. There's a parking lot in the western part of the park. Fort Niagara sits next to the parking lot. A paved pathway connects the parking lot with the fort. The path took us past some raised earthworks that were placed on the east of the fort to protect its sole landward approach. The earthworks, like the fort itself, are triangular in shape. The earthworks contain several artillery placements. A wooden fence surrounds the earthworks. Visitors follow the path and enter the fort through a blockhouse.

My first impression of the fort was how well it is maintained. My other immediate impression was its size. The interior of the fort covers twelve acres. The fort contains several large buildings. These include two redoubts, a store house, a powder magazine, a bake house, a log cabin and the "French Castle." All these buildings except the log cabin are original and date to the 18th century. Built in 1726, the Castle is the oldest.

History of Fort Niagra

The current fort at Niagara is the third fort built on that site. The French built Fort Conti in 1679. However, fire destroyed the fort later that same year. The French built a second fort, Denonville, in 1687. They found that it was too isolated and destroyed Fort Denonville after they abandoned it in 1688.

Later, as French settlements moved westward along the shores of Lake Ontario, the French decided to build a third fort at the strategic site where the Niagara River empties into Lake Ontario. Not wishing to anger their Iroquois allies the French asked for and received permission to build a trading house. The French began to build the house in 1726 and finished it the next year. The trading house would become to be known as the French Castle. Although built to resemble a trading house, the Castle was in actuality a strong citadel capable of resisting an attack by the native Americans. The stone walls of the Castle provided excellent protection against arrows and musket balls. It was felt that the Castle could shelter 60 men for a long time. The Castle contained quarters, a bakery, a kitchen, store houses, a powder magazine, a chapel and a well.

The Castle and Fort Niagara would be put to the test in the summer of 1759. On July 9 of that year a force of 2,000 British and 1,500 native Americans began a siege of Fort Niagara. The British and native forces slowly moved their siege lines forward; by July 24 their artillery lay within 80 yards of the fort. By then a relieving force of 1,500 consisting of Frenchmen and their native allies had moved up from Niagara Falls in an attempt to relieve Fort Niagara. The British and French forces met a mile south of the fort on July 24, 1759. There they had a 20-minute battle. The French attacked and the thin red line of British held fast. The defeated French withdrew to the south. Fort Niagara surrendered the next day.

The British Period

The British period at Fort Niagara was to last from 1759 to 1796. Although the fort saw no actual combat during this period, it did serve several important purposes. First, the fort served as a meeting point between the native Americans and the British crown. It was by these meetings that Britain developed strong, friendly relations with some of the natives. It would be these relations that would turn friends into allies during the American Revolution. The fort also served as a safe harbor. Fort Niagara allowed the British a safe place for their troops and supplies as they moved west to Detroit, Pittsburgh and many other British held sites. Third, the fort served a jumping off point for several military campaigns. One of these was against the native American revolt of 1763-64 known as Pontiacs' Uprising. Later, during the American Revolution, the Tory regiment known as Butler's Rangers used the fort as a base of operations. They caused great damage to many American colonial settlements in New York and Pennsylvania. Last, Fort Niagara saw use as a refuge for Loyalists who wished to leave the United States for Canada when Britain lost the American Revolution. British troops at the fort helped ferry Loyalists across the Niagara River to their new Canadian homes. The remnants of Bulter's Rangers left with them; they formed the nucleus of the Canadian Ranger forces.

Fort Niagara entered its American phase in 1796, 13 years after the end of the American Revolution. The British were very reluctant to give up such a strategic prize. They withdrew after the Americans threatened war. Peace returned to Fort Niagara and stayed nearly 20 years. She would leave when America declared war on Britain in 1812.

After leaving Fort Niagara, Britain built their own fort, Fort George, opposite Fort Niagara. On Oct. 13, 1812, Fort Niagara's cannon bombarded Fort George in support of an attack. The attack failed when New York militiamen refused to cross into Canada. Forces of the regular United States army pressed on with the attack but failed.

The British at Fort George initiated an artillery battle in November 1812. Neither side achieved an advantage during the day of fire. The Americans attempted to take Fort George in 1813. A powerful fleet of out Sacketts Harbor, NY, joined the guns of Fort Niagara. Together, they were able to reduce Fort George. Following a two-day bombardment, a follow up infantry assault took Fort George on May 27, 1813. Fort Niagara had lost its neighbor, but this was not the end of Fort Niagara's role in war.

On the night of Dec. 18-19, 1813, 562 British redcoats slipped across the Niagara River without detection and moved on Fort Niagara. They appeared at one of the fort's gates just as it was being opened to permit the passage of a sentry detail. The British burst into the fort. Most of the garrison were captured in their nightshirts. The remaining troops surrendered after a brief, vicious fight that cost the lives of 65 Americans. British forces held the fort until the war's end. The Treaty of Ghent returned the fort to the Americans. The end of the War of 1812 saw the end of fighting for Fort Niagara. It would remain a military post until 1963 but never again would its cannons roar out.

Summary

My wife and I enjoyed a lovely afternoon visiting the fort. There is a self guided tour with 16 stops that include all of the highlights. There are many displays in the fort that explain its varied history. During our visit, a costumed reenactor gave a demonstration on firing a musket. All of the staff at the fort seemed friendly and helpful.

Fort Niagara is one of America's lesser known historical sites. However, you can learn much about life in northwestern New York in the precolonial and colonial periods by a visit to this unique place. I highly recommend that you and your family take the time to visit Fort Niagara.