by Craig Charron, MGM
I have noticed that a good base for a figure goes a long way to make up for a crappy paint job. Over the years I have tried lots of things -- plain painted stands, various flocks, sand and model rail road ballast mixed with glue, water and putty, and many others. After years of disappointment and "basing envy," I have found a method or look I can live with. It is kind of complex and redundant at points, but it works for me. First, I base everything on steel/metal stands, this makes storage and movement easier and safer. Just put them in magnetic strip lined boxes and off you go! Anyhow, prime the metal. It helps with adhesion of materials and also preserves the stands. (Metal rusts when it comes in contact with the salts and oils from our hands). I use auto primer. I glue the figures on the stands with "Tacky Glue" after painting. You can get this glue at craft stores. It is white glue like Elmers, but thicker and seems to be stronger. It also can be softened with immersion in water if you need to rebase. With the figures glued on, I add the "eye candy," things to make the base more interesting, like arrows, clumps of standing weeds (made from unraveled sisal twine), stumps and rocks, etc. I glue them down with Tacky Glue. For arrows, I use hot glue from my glue gun to make a mound to hold it upright. Next I cover the base with Acrylic Modeling Paste. Many gamers are unfamiliar with this product, which is a shame, it is great stuff. It serves the same purpose as "Water Putty," but is much easier to use and more durable, (it does not chip or break). It is pulverized marble in a latex medium. It comes in several grades and textures, from smooth to coarse. Coarse has chunks of a rock-like material in it. It can be bought in Art supply stores and Craft shops. Be warned, it is not cheap, but a tub will last for years. It cleans up with water, you can mix paint in with it, and it will adhere to about anything. I work this all over the stand and let it dry. There is a very minor amount of shrinkage, but not enough to require multiple coats, one coat is all I use. When the basing is dry, I paint it with a light brown or tan color. This is much lighter than real dirt, but that will be taken care of later. When the paint is dry, I "paint" Elmers glue in irregular patches all over. While this glue is wet, I dip the stand in fine beach sand. When dry, I prime the sand areas white. This will later provide more contrast with the "paste" ground. When everything is dry, I "stain" the stand. I dip a large "slop" brush in brown, red brown or burnt umber paint -- depending on the color of the dirt I want -- then dip it in water (this thins the paint to a stain consistency) and slop it around the base. This fills in depressions and just colors the high points. Be careful not to put on too much paint. If you do, thin with water from your brush. It will make the sand look like a gravelly area. When this dries, I paint on irregular splotches of bright green. After this has dried, I dry brush the whole base with a tan or khaki color. Where I painted green, I spot/glob on more Tacky Glue, then dip it in my flock mixture. It has an irregular surface when done, and looks like clumps of grass. When everything is dry, I hit the whole with a light coat of Dull coat to fix the flock in place. Be sure you brush off all the excess flock from your figures prior this step, nothing looks dumber than figures who have flock sealed to them (true Moss Troopers?). Well that is it. It is labor intensive, but it works for me. I actually enjoy basing, because it symbolizes the completion of a new unit (ready to be routed from a table in an upcoming game) and distracts the eye away from my painting imperfections. Back to The Herald 23 Table of Contents Back to The Herald List of Issues Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List © Copyright 1998 by HMGS-GL. This article appears in MagWeb.com (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. Other articles from military history and related magazines are available at http://www.magweb.com |