On Tour in ZuluLand

by Edward M. Mikus


Over the years I had read books and articles about the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879 and had developed an interest second only to that in the Sudan Campaigns of 1883-1898. Visiting the Sudan was not practical so I began to think about the sites of the Zulu War. Ian Knight and Ian Castle were sponsoring a Zululand tour early in 1999. My wife, Trudy, and I decided that due to our drifting into old age this would be the last opportunity for a trip which put even a greater demand on our stamina than anticipated. We decided to go and arranged to meet the tour group at London's Heathrow Airpen published and is readily available.

Among others, The Zulu War Then and Now a book by Ian Knight and Ian Castle is particularly useful in providing information.

Climbing hills may be required at such sites as Isandlawana, the Oscarsberg which overlooks Rorke's Drift, Fugitives Trail, Hlobane, and Khambula. Fugitives Trail is extremely demanding and ends with a swim across the Mzinyathi River.

A visit to Hlobane requires a 4am start to avoid the heat of the day. A plateau is cross to reach Devil's Pass at the other end. An optional descent may be made into the pass. The entire walk must be retraced to the starting point to a total walk of eight miles. These two excursions are the most difficult, but options are available for those who do not wish to undertake them.

Do not expect the pristine battlefield parks you may have seen in the United States. Generally, there are no paths or signs to guide you and explanatory material is rare. At most sites nothing remains but foundations of buildings and some traces or forts which were not constructed with permanency in mind. There are many remote grave sites which receive minimal care.

There will be an opportunity to visit museums and to shop in durban and other locations. We did purchase some books and cards. Zulu shields, Assegais, spears, knobkerries and related items are available, but searching for Battlefield relics and exporting them out of South Africa is not allowed.

Ian Knight and Ian Castle conduct an annual tour to Zululand limited to a maximum of twelve people. Information may be obtained from Ian Castle, 49 Belsize Park, London NW3 4EE Great Britain. fax 01227 766422 iancastle@compuserve.com


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© Copyright 1999 by Richard Brooks.
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