NOTE FROM EDITOR: About three to four years ago, my wife, an excellent cook, offered some recipes related to the Napoleonic period. After reading Mr. Glasnovich's letter on the casualties at Marengo, she came up her interpretation on the "casualties at Marengo." A new -look at-the-casualties at Marengo "The Chicken Marengo" by Leona Lochet The fact of having to "put up" with you gentlemen(*) wargamers for over ten years made me aware that you very seldom agree on many subjects (especially on casualties!). I, for once, have a subject on which everyone is going to agree. (*) NOTE FROM EDITOR: My wife had another four letter word in mind to replace the expression "Gentlemen Wargamers" which I felt necessary to edit out. None of the official Austrian and French accounts report one of the casualties at Marengo: that is the unfortunate chicken that lost its life in become the first "Chicken Marengo". Furthermore, that unfortunate chicken, if it had the honor of being one of the casualties was not the last victim of Marengo. An immense number of chickens have been, are and will become "Chicken Marengo". Battles sometimes have consequences not reported by historians. Bonaparte, who, on the day of a battle, ate nothing until after it was over, had gone forward with his general staff and was a long way from his supply wagons. Seeing his enemies put to flight, he asked Dunand to prepare dinner for him. The master-chef at once sent men of the quartermaster's staff and ordnance corps in search of provisions. All they could find were three eggs, four tomatoes, six crayfish, a small hen, a little garlic, some oil and a saucepan. Using his bread ration, Dunand first made a panade* with oil and water, and then, having drawn and jointed his chicken, browned it in oil, and fried the eggs in the same oil with a few cloves of garlic and the tomatoes. He poured over this mixture some water laced with brandy borrowed from the General's flash and put the crayfish on top to cook in the steam. The dish was served on a tin plate, the chicken surrounded by the fried eggs and crayfish, with the sauce poured over it. Bonaparte, having feasted upon it, said to Dunand: "You must feed me like this after every battle." The originality of this improvised dish lay in the garnish, for chicken 'a la Provencale', sauteed in oil with garlic and tomatoes, was known in Paris under the Directory (1796-1799). Dunand was well aware that the crayfish were out of place in this dish, and so he later substituted wine for the water and added mushrooms. But one day, when he had served the dish improved in this way, Bonaparte said angrily: "You have left out the crayfish. It will bring me bad luck. I don't want any of it." Willy-nilly, the crayfish garnish had to be restored, and it has remained to this day the traditional garnish for the dish. Following is the original receipe of the "Chicken saute A la Marengo" (Source: "Larousse Gastronomique") Saute the chicken in oil, browmigg it. Dilute the juices in the pan with /cup of white wine, cook down, pour in 3/4cup of thickened rich brown veal gravy. Add a crushed clove of garlic, cook at boiling point for a few minutes; strain. Set the chicken on a dish; garnish with 8 mushrooms (sauteed with the chicken) 4 very small fried eggs (or just the yolks), 4 large crayfish trussed and cooked in court-bouillion and 4 heart-shaped croutons fried in butter. Place on the chicken 8 slices of truffles sauteed in butter, coat with the sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley. A somewhat Americanized version (with and without tomatoes) of the "Chicken Marengo" can be found in cookbooks. The following is from "McCall's": Wash chicken under cold water; dry well on paper towels. On sheet of waxed paper, combine flour, salt and pepper; mix well. Roll chicken pieces in flour mixture, coating evenly. In a 5-quart Dutch oven, slowly heat the olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter. Add chicken pieces to hot fat in a single layer; saute' on all sides, turning with tongs, until nicely browned - 10 minutes. Remove chicken as it browns. Brown rest of chicken, remove and set aside. Add the garlic, thyme, basil and parsley to Dutch oven. Saute herbs, stirring, over medium heat 5 minutes. If using fresh tomatoes, scald in boiling water; peel skins. Cut tomatoes in quarters; add to Dutch oven. (If using canned tomatoes, add with liquid.) Add tomato paste, sugar, Tabasco and 3/4 cup of the wine. Stir to mix well. Place chicken in sauce. Bring to boiling; reduce heat; simmer, covered, 40 minutes. Meanwhile, wash mushrooms; slice through stem, 4 inch thick. In 2 tablespoons remaining butter in small skillet, saute' mushrooms about 5 minutes, stirring. Add sliced mushrooms to chicken; cook, covered 10 minutes longer. Arrange chicken on a platter. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 8.  Ingredients for Chicken Marengo as found in the McCall's recipe are: 2 ready-to-cook broiler-fryers (2-lb size), quartered 4 ripe tomatoes (2 lb) or 1 can (1 lb, 10 oz) Italian plum tomatoes, undrained 3 tablespoons flour 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons tomato paste 1/8 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons olive or salad oil 2 drops Tabasco 4 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 cup dry white wine 1 clove garlic, crushed 1/2 lb fresh mushrooms 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves 1.2 teaspoon dried basil leaves 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Either way you choose, Bon appetit! Back to Empire, Eagles, & Lions Table of Contents Vol. 1 No. 78 Back to EEL List of Issues Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List © Copyright 1984 by Emperor's Headquarters This article appears in MagWeb.com (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. 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