Concerning the Harvest and Quality
of the Red Wines
of the Gironde (Bordeaux)
Since 1795

by John Cook

NOTE FROM LEONA:

We received the following article from John Cook, a long time contributor to EE&L, who, besides his interest in wargaming and Napoleonic history, is, like many readers, appreciative of good wines and good foods. Like Mr.Cook, we appreciate the great Bordeaux wines, but the Emperor, as we do, appreciated more the great Burgundies like his favorite Chambertin. But let s be fair, we also like the great Rhone wines like the Chateauneuf du Pape or the Cote-Rotie or Ermitage, or those of Alsace, and those of Italy or Switzerland and the great Chardormays and Cabernets from California without forgetting those of constantly increasing qualities of Oregon, Chile and Australia, etc. We also like a great deal the whites of Baden, where we lived for about two years. Well, that shows that we like many good wines. Do we have any takers to inform us on the quality of the European wines (as likely the others did existed yet) of the above countries? This would be most interesting for a future column.

Of the great wines of the world, those of France, when at their best, are undoubtedly the greatest. The greatest of France are generally accepted to be those of Bordeaux, the tasting of which amounts to the performance of a sacred rite, carried out with gravity and serious attention. During the Napoleonic period the variable vintage was, clearly, no less a factor than it is today, as the following notes indicate and which I offer as a change from the reader's more usual diet.

Food and the Napoleonic Soldier on Campaign

We have seen that the basic food for the Napoleonic soldiers of all nations was bread. Sometimes these soldiers were not provided with bread but with flour (see EE&L #3, p.34). But to make bread one needs an oven and some yeast. On many occasions soldiers had flour but no oven or yeast with which to make it, so they were reduced to making some kind of concoction with water (or sometimes milk if they had it) and cooking it. Most preferred to make a paste with the flour, making small balls and cooking them over a camp fire. Then, the lucky ones who had wine soaked their unleavened bread balls in wine or in a soup made with whatever meat had been found in the fashion described in EE&L #6.

Harvest and Quality of the Red Wines of the Gironde (Bordeaux) Since 1795
YEARSBEGINNING OF
HARVEST
QUANTITY OF
HARVEST
QUALITY
179524 SeptemberSmallVery good
179630 SeptemberSmallMediocre, lean wines
17972 OctoberSmallMediocre, lean wines
179813 SeptemberReasonably largeMarvelous, praised for 20 years
Full wines, vigourous and smooth
17995 OctoberSmallBad
180023 SeptemberSmallBad
180114 SeptemberSmallAcceptable
180223 SeptemberAverageMarvelous, almost as good as 1798
180325 SeptemberAverageLess than 1802 but good
180415 SeptemberAverageMediocre
180523 SeptemberVery largeMediocre
180620 SeptemberUsualBad
180711 SeptemberLargeGood
180813 SeptemberAverageGood, ordinary
18096 OctoberSmallVery bad
181019 SeptemberAverageAcceptable
181114 SeptemberFairlylarge Most remarkable, called
"Wines of the Comet"
181221 SeptemberLowaverage Weak, insignificant
18134 OctoberAverageFlat, mediocre
181429 SeptemberAverageVery good
181525 SeptemberVery littleMarvelous, at the same level as
wine 1798 and 1811.

There you have it. I'd recommend the '98, '02, '11 and '15. Ask your wine merchant for some tomorrow!

Source: Very old list of a well known London wine merchant.


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