For years, I have been helping my husband in his research on the Napoleonic era, going with him to libraries like Princeton or the Ann Brown Library in Providence. (That was my way of not becoming a full-ltime "Wargame Widow"!). Over the years I have come across many interesting items, anecdotes, letters (among which are some of Napoleon's letters to Josephine), recipes, strange customs, fashion, etc. some of which should be of interested not only to the wargamers or historians but also to their wives or girlfriends. ON NAPOLEONS TABLE French people are so interested in food (and the Lochets are no exception) that even during the wars they always managed to eat the best they could find and afford. They are always ready to do what ever is necessary to keep their main "interest" up to the necessary and essential standards. Hence the Emperor's table had to reflect that interest in food.... During the Wars of the French Revolution and of the Empire, when Napoleon was still the First Consul Bonaparte, he found out that his diplomatic pouches were used mainly to transport food items for one of his chefs. He was very upset about this, and reprimanded the deputy who was responsible. The deputy was shocked and answered Napoleon: "Citizen Consul, how do you want us to make friends if we cannot serve our guests outstanding meals? Don't you know that, in general, it is with the help of a good table that a nation starts to govern?" Remember that war is never declared around a table, only peace is signed. In our next issue, we'll see how the famous Chicken Marengo (Poulet Marengo) came to life. Of course the anecdote will include the original recipe. NAPOLEON AND WINE The Emperor's favorite wine was the Chambertin. It was far from a poor choice! Chambertin is an excellent burgundy, a "Cotes de Nuits" to be precise. It is produced on a delimited and very limited area (13.5 hectares or 32.5 acres) around the small village of Gevrey Chambertin. Chambertin, called "Le Grand Seigneur" is considered - with Chambertin "Clos de Beze" - as one of the greatest burgundies and nobody disputes the title perhaps out of respect for Napoleon's taste for the wine. Even without latitude to Napoleon, Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Beze would be glorious wines. Napoleon always carried a considerable stock of Chambertin inhiscampaigns and many of Napoleon's guests mention having tested the Emperor's Chambertin. The village of Gevrey-Chambertin produces other wines in which the word "Chambertin" is associated with other names (note 3). These wines are far superior to the lesser (less impressive but still very pleasant) wines sold simply as "Gevrey-Chambertin" and are more affordable. If you visit the village of Gevrey Chambertin itself, you won't be able to find a bottle of the "Fetes de Cuvee" in either of the local restaurants and it's even hard to get one of the few bottles of the "Premiers Crus". Many of the growers rarely drink their own wines. They are too valuable. The original recipe for "Coq au vin" (rooster in wine) calls for cooking it in Chambertin. I don't think I would have the heart to sacrifice a bottle Chambertin to cook such as dish since a good California zinfandel (note 4) will do the trick quite nicely and gives an excellent rich sauce with a coq au vin. Note 1: The great red burgundies come from the Cotes de Beaune and the Cotes de Nuits. Note 2: The official yield per acre for the village of Gevrey-Chambertin (strictly enforced) is or about 100 cases per acres. So, in good year, Chambertin yields about 3200 cases and Chambertin "Clos de Beze" yields about 3700 cases. The reputation of the Chambertin and Chambertin "Clos de Beze" and rarity make these wines very expensive. Most of it is drunk in the large cities of the world. The official classification of the wines produced in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin is: (1) Outstanding Great Growth Vineyards (Grand Crus) are Chambertin and Chambertin "Close de Beze". (2) Great Growth Vineyards (Grand Crus): LatricieresChambertin*, Mazys or Mazis*, Mazoyeres*, Charmes*, Ruchottes* (and Clos de Ruchottes*), Griotte, Chapelle, Clos Saint Jacques*, Varoilles*, Fouchere, Etournelles and Cazetiers. (3) Principal First Growth (Premiers Crus): These lesser wines (still excellent) are not permitted to add the word "Chambertin" to their names. There are: Gemeaux, Echezeaux, Lavaut, Combe au Moine and Carougeot. The amount of wine sold as Gevrey-Chambertin and Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru comes to around 140,000 cases from 200 or so hectares (about 500 acres). Note 3: The names marked with * indicates vineyards whose wines are likely to be imported in the United States. The others are seldom if ever found in the United States. Note 4: It is not my intention to compare Chambertin with any good California (red) Zinfandel. They are two completely different wines. Zinfandel is an excellent wine, often underrated which reasonable price makes great for lesser events. In addition, as mentioned above, Zinfandel makes great rich sauces with coq au vin, venison etc.! Back to Empire, Eagles, & Lions Table of Contents Vol. 2 No. 1 Back to EEL List of Issues Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List © Copyright 1993 by Emperor's Headquarters This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. Other articles from military history and related magazines are available at http://www.magweb.com