To some people, the history of Western Pennsylvania is that of steel mills and coke ovens, the pollution-spewing dinosaurs of a past industrial age. To others, it may be sports. But the region's heritage goes back much further, to the mid-eighteenth century, when it was the keystone of empire and the crucible of war. The French and Indian War started there, and the Forks of the Ohio — later called Pittsburgh — was one of the most important strategic objectives. Fort Necessity National Battlefield commemorates some of the most crucial incidents of the war. These start with the young George Washington's first expedition across the mountains against the French, and his first battles; one was a one-sided victory, and the other his first defeat. It also marks the route of General Edward Braddock's ill-starred offensive toward the Forks and Ft. Duquesne, and the place of his death and burial. Finally, the battlefield site nods toward the less strife-filled era of nation-building that followed the Revolutionary War. The centerpiece of the National Battlefield is, of course, Ft. Necessity itself. This stands in Great Meadows, which the young colonel had earlier dubbed "A charming field for an encounter." But when the French attack came on 3 July 1754, it was a swampy, rain-soaked hole. Superior French numbers and firepower added to the misery, and early the next morning, Washington surrendered his fort and few tiny artillery pieces, and marched out under the honors of war. A reconstruction of Ft. Necessity now stands on the site of the original. Visitors expecting the imposing walls of Ft. Niagara, New York or Castillo San Marcos, Florida will no doubt feel underwhelmed. Ft. Necessity was not so much a fort as a set of field works, and incomplete ones at that. It amounts to only a log shed surrounded by a crude palisade, itself girded by low breastworks. Some swivel guns, and one forlorn British flag, do not do much to lend it additional dignity. Likewise, Great Meadows as a whole lacks the palpable feeling of Hallowed Ground, evident at Gettysburg or Antietam. There are no monuments and statues here, just a big field, virtually empty except for a small fort and a lot of weeds, bordered by woods. The battlefield resembles a state or county park more than anything else, especially where the fort is not in sight. There is a picnic area and a network of trails. However, unlike most parks in my experience, this one is unbelievably clean. What Fort Necessity National Battlefield lacks in grandeur, it also lacks in trash. One of the paths is actually the trace of Braddock's road, which winds out of the main park area to connect its two satellite sites. First an Indian trail, it was expanded by Braddock on his march on the Ohio, and later served as a primary route for westward expansion. Finally, with the construction of the first National Road (now followed by US Route 40), the road was abandoned, and went full circle, back to being a narrow trail. About a mile northwest of Ft. Necessity is Braddock's grave. Actually, there are two of them. One is the place in the middle of Braddock's road, where workmen found bones they believed were those of the fallen general. Now empty, this grave is marked with a simple marker. The other grave is a more elaborate one, where those bones were reinterred in 1913. This one has a twelve foot granite monument, and a bronze plaque splendid for its political incorrectness. Several more miles to the northwest is Jumonville Glen. In this place in 1754, Colonel Washington surprised a group of Frenchmen, killing ten, including their commander, the Sieur de Jumonville. In an instance of superb historical irony, the French officer who later extended the honors of war at Ft. Necessity was Jumonville's younger brother. Unfortunately, a wrong turn on a mountain road, and low gas gauge prevented me from reaching Jumonville Glen. This was a special disappointment, as the skirmish there was the final spark igniting the French and Indian War. A more minor site within the National Battlefield, several hundred yards from the fort, is Mount Washington Tavern. This was a stage coach stop on the National Road in the early nineteenth century, and today abuts US Route 40. On the day of my visit, it was closed for repair. As far as presentation and visitor support are concerned, Fort Necessity National Battlefield gets the standard National Park Service treatment. There is a small visitor's center at the main entrance, with some minor historical displays, and a much more interesting exhibit on the archaeology of the fort's rediscovery and reconstruction. The bookstore is small, but has a good variety, from historical coloring books to scholarly works, for those whose interest runs deeper than the Tourist Experience. The entrance fee is so nominal that one wonders why admission is charged at all. Two dollars admits one visitor, and is good for seven days at that. Each paying visitor receives a surprisingly well done and informative map and guide sheet. Ultimately, Fort Necessity National Battlefield is a recommended stop for those interested in the prelude to revolution, especially for travelers who happen to pass through the area. As for others, they should be cautioned that great events do not necessarily lead to great tourist attractions in later centuries. Getting There Fort Necessity National Battlefield is located in the Laurel Mountains of southwestern Pennsylvania, about forty-five air miles from Pittsburgh. However, as residents of the area can well testify, a tangled road net means that air and road miles seldom resemble each other, and so the battlefield is about a two hour drive from the city. The best route is via the Pennsylvania Turnpike to the New Stanton exit, and south on US Route 119 to Uniontown. From there, take US Route 40 east. The main entrance is on the south side of this road, near Farmington. Travelers should beware of extensive construction on the Turnpike. In addition, the State Police maintain a large number of speed traps both on this highway and Route 119. Back to Cry Havoc #8 Table of Contents Back to Cry Havoc List of Issues Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List © Copyright 1994 by David W. Tschanz. This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. Other military history articles and gaming articles are available at http://www.magweb.com