Civil War enthusiasts visit battlefields. It's a law of nature. But one of the jewels of historical travel is not a battlefield per se, but a functioning town — Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Situated where the Shenandoah River joins the Potomac, and nestled among sheer and towering heights, it has one of the most striking natural locations of any Civil War attraction.
It features a wealth of buildings from its prime as one of the most important industrial and strategic locations in the United States. At the same time, some of the most important locations are actually ruins, and yet these are just as fascinating as anything in a better state of preservation.
The federal armory was, until the war, one of the most critical military manufacturing sites in the United States. Today, however, almost all that remains is the firehouse. Now called "John Brown's Fort" this is where the abolitionist and his band defied Federal troops in 1859; the rest of its riverside buildings are marked only by their foundations.
Also on the Shenandoah side is Virginius Island, which offers testimony to the power of the river. In the mid-nineteenth century, a tight concentration of mills and factories grew up on the sandy strip of land, their machines powered by water, channeled through underground sluices. Then a series of catastrophic floods drove industry from the area. So today, like the armory, ruined foundations, and the sluices, are the remains of industrial Virginius Island.
The central themes of Harpers Ferry are industry and transportation, not combat. The visitor can go across the Potomac on a walkway on a railway bridge, paralleling the piers of an earlier span. On the Maryland side, there is the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal and its towpath, along with the an old lock.
Lower Town, the oldest section of the town, has a number of buildings maintained by the National Park Service, primarily as museums devoted to Harpers Ferry's industrial past, the Civil War, and its heritage as a center of black history and education. None is overly large, and so the effect is akin to a modular museum.
One of the most fascinating is a gutted house that resembles an exhibit on remodeling. Instead, it actually works as a clinic on urban archaeology, with the floor dug out to reveal the foundations of earlier structures, and even a long vanished alley.
The visitor's center is positioned on Bolivar Heights, overlooking the town from the west. This sh ould be the first stop for anyone visiting Harpers Ferry. Its narrow streets, either following the rivers or veering up the sides of hillsides, are terribly suited for motor vehicles. The best option is to park at the visitor's center and buy a bus pass, good for seven days of unlimited rides for five dollars. The ride is short, and the buses run every few minutes, making for access far more convenient than driving into a maze devoid of parking spaces.
At first examination, Harpers Ferry is a little disappointing for the tourist accustomed to the dignity of a battlefield, and anticipating the spotlight to fall squarely on the War Between the States. Mixed into its unique natural setting and old architecture is a hefty measure of honky tonk and touristy, typified by T-shirt and gift shops. In addition, since the NPS-administered buildings are interspersed among the privately owned ones, there is no sharp and clear demarcation between the historically crucial sites and the tourist traps.
But first glances can mislead. In this environment, there is a treasure trove of attractions for the historically serious, many of them pleasant surprises; Virginius Island certainly ranks as one of the best. Moreover, despite a relatively small size, there is more to see than can be experienced in a single day's visit. Harpers Ferry may not be one of the essential, Gettysburg-rank destinations for the Civil War traveler, but it is recommended.
GETTING THERE
The main route to Harpers Ferry is US 340, leading to Frederick, Maryland, the nexus of the primary highways to several major cities. There, US 15 connects with Harrisburg, Gettysburg and Pennsylvania Turnpike, which in turn leads to Philadelphia to the east and Pittsburgh to the west. US 40 joins Frederick to Baltimore, and Interstate 270 leads to Washington DC. The final main road, Interstate 70, goes northeast to Breezewood, Pennsylvania and the Pennsylvania Turnpike. Despite the constant delays and traffic jams at there, it is the best and most direct route to Pittsburgh and points west. Harpers Ferry makes an excellent side trip to a visit to Antietam National Battlefield at Sharpsburg, Maryland. The recommended route from there is Maryland Route 34 to Boonsboro, and then Maryland Route 67 south.
Visitors should not, under any circumstances, take the most direct path of Harpers Ferry Road, the same one taken by A.P. Hill's troops in 1862. Though shorter on the map, this degenerates into a winding, narrow mountain road by the time it reaches the C & O Canal. Then, it finally snakes uphill again, to US 340, in effect passing up Harpers Ferry on the way there. On the whole, an historically instructive and scenic drive, but also a rather hazardous one.
For those interested in modes of transport more natural than the internal combustion engine, Harpers Ferry is a major stop on the Appalachian Trail. The footpath across the Potomac is part of the trail system, continuing up the towering Maryland Heights.
Back to Cry Havoc #10 Table of Contents
Back to Cry Havoc List of Issues
Back to MagWeb Master Magazine List
© Copyright 1994 by David W. Tschanz.
This article appears in MagWeb (Magazine Web) on the Internet World Wide Web. Other military history articles and gaming articles are available at http://www.magweb.com