By Scott Holder
Around five years ago, my predecessor as the NASAMW's Chief Umpire, Kruse Smith, wrote two articles on the well known WRG Army Lists (Vol. V, No. 5 and Vol. VI No. 2). Much has happened since then, mainly the almost universal adoption of WRG 7th edition over 6th edition for tournament play here in the U.S. Also, the NASAMW has issued its own Army Lists for use with the original WRG lists. Kruse's comments years back on the "set in concrete" is no longer quite true. These new lists expand or outright redo many of the old standard lists. You can now see two Seleucid lists at conventions. Also, many of the lists that were "marginally" competitive are now quite good. Hopefully, these lists will foster further research. Problems with "personal" lists still crop up occasionally, but many I've seen are quite good and we allow them in our tournaments. Let's hope the research continues.
The original WRG lists were written for 6th edition, not 7th, sometimes a big problem. Many aspects of some lists directly contradict WRG 7th. Worse, some "rules" given in the lists lead many players to use them instead of material covered in WRG 7th. Also, many of the minimums and maximums do not correspond to the element system of basing. Make allowances in these situations. Our rule is to round up or down to the nearest even number of elements. Never round down to zero (done by some to eliminate required buys). Kruse's comments on general purpose books to use when painting and performing research on your list are still quite valid. They are fairly widespread and someone in your area probably carries them.
Other "amateur" publications carry plenty of army lists and reviews relative to WRG (SAGA by Terry Gore and Pike and Pilum by Bob Plyler). Both these publications offer alternative lists representign ongoing research. Two newsletters, Slingshot from Britain and Spearpoint from the NASAMW also carry "new" lists or something proposed for an existing one.
While the rules changed somewhat drastically between 6th and 7th, many things remain the same. You should still try to purchase and paint an army with future expansion in mind especiallywhen working in 25mm (due to the cost involved). An example are the Alexander and Successor armies from Book I; they are usually pretty interchangeable. Many troop types out of Book III work the same way. If painted "generically" enough, a knight is still a knight. Many of the same figures on the market today are offered for a variety of armies. Mixing different manufacturers' figures is desirable in many cases if you want a more "ragged" look to your army. How often in the ancients period did everyone have the same pose and dress? Not often if ever - so mix your figures.
Many armies continue in popularity. Seleucids and Late Romans are still big and will probably remain popular regardless of the rules used. The problem of the "Standard 20" lists is not so bad any more as people learn some of the nuances of 7th edition. Also, many people lose sight of the fact that many armies will, unfortunately, never do well in a tournament setting. Playing styles which change over the years and a game time limit both factor i nto why some armies always do well. Yet that should not stop the person from buyingand playinga "non-tournament" army. Each local group of gamers tends to like variety. I mean, who wants to play Late Romans against Seleucids week after week? You also get much more out of the rules by running different armies and you almost always learn a new tactic or countermove when playing against some off the wall army.
Kruse discussed three themes in 6th edition. I feel there are three in 7th edition as well. The first is scale. When 7th was first released, everyone jumped to the conclusion that these rules were geared toward 15mm players. I will admit that 15mm is the more popular scale at conventions but I feel this is due more to ease of army transport and the daunting financial and painting time cost of breaking into 25mm. The big figures take longerto paint and cost almost 3 times that of 15mm - sad but true. Yet many armies in 7th edition play much better in 25mm than in 15mm. Terrain is a big factor here. Many of the "barbarian trash" LMI armies have loads of Irr C troops, very prone to unease when facing elephants, chariots, knights, or SHC. Yet placing the Irr C stuff in rough terrain can prevent that from happening. A look at terrain piece sizes and their placement rules in 7th shows a proclivity toward more clear space in 15mm than in 25mm. So if you're interested in something like Thracians or Illyrians, 25mm is the obvious choice.
Further on this theme, close order foot armies tend to play better in 25mm since they generally close with the enemy, again, because of the board size and relative movement scale. All too often I see close order (and the irregular loose stuff mentioned above) fail to get into battle because of their slow march and tactical moves. Force marching does wonders for getting people into battle who might otherwise march fruitlessly. In 15mm, close order foot has a tendency to march to a position and sit since the 2 inches of tactical move is often insufficient to close. Armies with loads of cavalry prefer 15mm because of the added room to maneuver. An example would be a Mongol player in 25mm; he seldom gets to use the army properly because of space limitations. The problem can be acute if your opponent places four pieces of woods on the table, makingthe open space that much "smaller". I've heard people say that terrain is a maneuver element in 7th, how true. Scale should play an important part in your choice of army.
Another facet of scale is actual cost of troops. If your army has loads of expensive knights, elephants, orSHC, the actual number of figures put on the table can be quite small. In 15mm, this leads to being flanked quite easily, especially if you are outnumbered 3:1. In this case, but played in 25mm, your small Teutonic Knight army seems "large" because of the relative table size.
A second theme regards shock versus maneuver. Irregular loose order armies can cause severe damage early on since they generally cause regulars to stand and receive charges while getting big hand-to-hand bonuses for charging impetuously. However, irregulars lose most of their movement when changing direction or formation. The regular army will generally move laterally on the table better, given enough space to do so. While historically accurate for troops like Roman HI, instead 16-figure pike blocks move more like maniples, leaving the historian aghast; it's legal though. Generally, regular troops will try to withstand that first big hit and if so, wear down the opponent (especially true when fighting regulars versus irregulars).
Lastly, missile fire is still a significant factor, much more so than it was in 6th. Before the errata to 7th edition, missile fire was the preeminent factor in the game. Now it still packs a punch but to a lesser extent. Yet many armies rely primarily on missile fire to win the game (Aztecs and 100 Years War English to name two). A continuous line of foot can no longer slog forward in the face of devastating missile fire to close like they could in 6th. The missile fire will generally halt the foot and in many cases cause disorder and/or waver testing. Just remember, missile fire can win or lose the game for you.
Now for the Book I list review. I'm hoping to also review Books II and III later, in a similar manner to what you see here. Hopefully you will get an idea of how many of these armies play. Although not everyone is familiar with the NASAMW lists, I will refer to them occasionally. Tournament "standards" for lists size is 1500 points with a 6x4 table for 15mm and 8x5 for 25mm.
Midianite Arab: This army has one of the best gimmick troops in 7th edition: double ridden camels. I often hear the term machine gun when referring to the Midianites. True, the camels shoot the dickens out of just about anyone but they are themselves highly vulnerable to return missile fire. If they trade shots, they often become tired for shooting after their first shot- renderingthem useless. Even if the camels shoot and disorder an opponent, their hand-to-hand factors are poor. The hordes of LI offer protective screens and you can combine types putting JLS in the front rank, S or B in the second. Lack of shields hampers their effectiveness forcing them into skirmish formation most of the time. Generally you will cause your opponent to worry about camels but little else. This army is probably only good in 15mm due to the numerous LI on the board needing room to just deploy much less move around.
Hittites: Only one person runs the Hittites, Bob Luddy, probably because no one else makes figures for the army. Most of Bob's are handcrafted stuff. This army looks great and definitely gives the surprise factor against opponents. Unfortunately it does little else. The large number of two horse HCh do little against anything other than light troops. You can increase their staying power and punch by adding LMI runners in a second rank. They fight as second rank figures and can expand on a follow up move. the infantry is average and irregular, good for charging straight ahead but poor on lateral movement. Hittite infantry has "C" morale, not really good enough to cope with watching friendly chariots rout. The army could work in either scale.
New Kingdom Egyptian: An historical opponent for the Hittites and much better from a competitive perspective. The Egyptians have the same problem as the Hittites, too many generally ineffective 2-horse chariots. They are great causes of unease to the enemy though and stringing them out along your army's front, the minus 1 on some opponents' waver tests can often win the game. The Egyptians' regular MI is good for screening and holding positions, but packs almost no punch. The required MI B-armed troops are vulnerable to missile fire since the list implies that they cannot form a back rank for the other MI. Plenty of either Egyptian or Nubian LI can screen things and the Sea Peoples LMI, Javelinmen, and Marines provide rough terrain options. You must have close cooperation and support between troops or you're likely to get overwhelmed since none of the troops stands well along. Another twoscale army.
Shang, Chou, and Chin: My comments center primarily on the Chin (proper spelling Qin) list, mainly the NASAMW list. The strength of this army is the variety of troop types. Shock troops are the 4-horse HCh with LMI detachments armed with JLS and 2HCT. This particular combination can break anything but knights or elephants. Its drawback is lack of maneuverability. The infantry comprises of Pike/B,CB and 2HCT/B,CB units, very effective against enemy cavalry and infantry. The LC requirements are useful if you go the HCh route. The NASAMW lists provide LC with JLS, B, sh that wedges to boot! Using the LHI chariot detachments also provides rough terrain troops. the Qins play well in either scale, use 25mm if you want the HCh options, 15mm if you want lots of LC and LI. The biggest drawback in the WRG list is morale, the NASAMW list allows upgrading. The biggest difference between the three armies in the NASAMW's lists is that the Shang and Chou do not have wedging LC.
New Babylonians: A deceptively good list. Most people sneer at the Biblical Chariot armies; this one changes peoples' minds. Unless you want skirmish screen killers, upgrade your chariots to 4-horse HCh. They are effective against many targets except SHK, elephants, and SHC. However, the Babylonian infantry has morale problems and the required MC is the most worthless troop type in 7th edition. However, you can buy 40 of those nasty double ridden Arab camels, which always works on your opponent's mind. The Persians provide good cavalry and infantry that's at least better than the Babylonians. The Lydian allies are your best option with plenty of LC, L-armed HC, and plenty of rough terrain troops. Very little required buys for the Lydians make this option particularly flexible. The Babylonians are a good finesse army that is not too forgiving if you make a mistake. However, when played by experienced people, this army does well in either scale.
Indian: A "killer" list in the pre-errata days of 7th. Now, it's just a good list. Plenty of unease causing HCh and El wreak havoc on opponents' morale. Also, both these troop types are effective shock troops, the elephants taking on any heavily armored troops that the HCh have trouble with. The close-order MI with LB and 2HCW is an effective combination, shooting the opponent into disorder and then hacking him up. The Indians have only token skirmish troops making it hard to close with opponents unwilling to do so and able to keep distance. Also the required buy of 20MC is basically throwing points away. Indians are also vulnerable to rough terrain having few troops (other than the Maiden Guard) to handle woods. This army is better suited to 25mm despite its problems with terrain. In 15mm, the Indians will have trouble closing against anyone except armies conisistingof mostly close orderfoot. Also, the army troop types are pretty expensive (if you go with lots of elephants and chariots) thus small in figures. Determined skirmishers will never close and instead will try to set up flank shots.
Skythian/Hsiung-Nu: First of all, get rid of the reference to the HsiungNu. The NASAMW has an entirely separate list which is similar to the Skythians. The Skythians were a western Asia nomadic group while the Hsiung-Nu were on the fringes of China. The biggest asset this army has is that all its cavalry (which is most of the army) can wedge. Also, most can be armed with both JLS and B, again giving missile fire a chance to win the game. The fact that the troops are Irregular makes them a little less maneuverable but the wedge formation mitigates that somewhat. The shock value is dramatic. The very poorly armed and morale class infantry is a big drawback. This army can't really directly assault anyone with good close order foot or missile weapons; instead it must open flanks and pin opponents with the hordes of LC, then charge units in the flank with wedged HC. In a tournament, a Skythian player can generally pull draws with conservative skirmish play. The bolder player, if properly coordinating the LC and HC, can win big, often. Only run the Skythians in 15mm; 25mm will cause a traffic jam with all that LC.
Illyrians: An outstanding rough terrain army, hence always play it in 25mm. Your chances of covering portions of the table with rough terrain is greater and you will have a chance to close with someone even if they are unwilling to close. Force marching to the table center will often force the issue. The Warriors have good morale, making them less susceptible to unease. Unfortunately you must buy at least 20 Irr D LMI, a good reserve unit since it will probably die in the front line. The LI has poor morale and no shields; don't bother upgrading them to Irr B, the points will be wasted. However, cheap LI provides expendable screens, not bad when facing knight armies. Other useful troops are the Gauls and Spaniard, both providing good shock troops, both of which can break most regular close infantry frontally. A drawback when buying these mercenaries is the required conversion of 24 Warriors to MI LTS sh. The "hoplite" in 7th stinks; it can't close fast enough and is only marginally effective against other infantry. The Irr D LI with B orS can be effective but lose out in a mutual missile exchange due to no shields. Because of movement limitations, the Illyrian player is hard-pressed to counter cavalry armies with greater charge moves. Also, knights catchingthe LMI standing will generally win.
Thracian: Another "barbarian trash" army with interesting potential. Lots of light cavalry with B and JLS that wedges is a big advantage. The HC nobles also wedge, useful for punching targets pinned bythe LC. The LMI are some of the finest rough terrain troops in the game. You should only arm the front rank with 2HCW and leave the back rank with JLS. Unfortunatly, Thracian LMI are only Irr C, making them extremely vulnerable to unease. Plenty of mixable LI provide good missile and anti-skirmish troops. As with all predominately Irr loose order armies, play it in 25mm. You usually see more clear space in 15mm, something the Thracian player avoids if his opponent has elephants, SHC, knights or chariots. As previously stated, in 25mm, you generally get more non-clear terrain coverage of the table, something your peltasts will appreciate.
Carthaginian: I call this the ultimate finesse army. Playing this list really makes one appreciate Hannibal's genius. Carthaginians are not very forgiving; one mistake will kill you. However, if played well, this army can beat anyone any time. Bob Plyler made it to the finals in the 1988 National Championship Tourney with it so somethingworks. Plentyof LC and LI allow you to skirmish and pin opponments. Use only the Irr C elephants, your limited to only four, but that should be enough. The Spanish troops are a good buy; always upgrade the Scutarii to Celtibereans and the rest to Reg C. Gallic LMI as either Irr A or C are also good. Don't buy the early option with the chariots. For some reason, the list does not work well that way. Try to buy minimal numbers of Libyan Spearmen, again the close order LTS-armed troops will stink in 7th. Use plenty of LC and LI, striking with your elephants and Irr LMI. If you coordinate all this, you tend to win. If not, you tend to lose rather badly. If well run, it will play in either scale rather well.
Late Hoplite Greeks: As mentioned before, close order LTS-armed troops suffer in 7th. Quite frankly, they have not played well since the days of 5th. But if you must put a Hoplite army on the table usingthis list, go the Syracusan route. It's ironic, but this version of the list is better than the actual Syracusan list itself. You get more Irr A Gauls and HTW-armed Spanish with this list and anything is better than putting more than the minimal amount of Hoplites on the table. Both these troops provide excellent shock value and are also good rough terrain troops. Hoplites are only good for cutting off and sometimes holding parts of the board. Force marches with Hoplites often get them into battle (not necessarily a good idea). This list has plenty of LI, mostlyJLS-armed, so it won't give out missile casualties but the number of LI will prevent your hoplites, Gauls, and Spanish from getting shot to pieces. A lack of effective cavalry forces hurts.This army is very susceptible to elephants, SHC, and knights. Even if competently run, this army will play in neither scale well. If you want to win that badly with this army, rely on your Gauls and Spaniards - for that matter, if you want to win at all costs, just play the Gallic or Spanish instead of Hoplites.
Later Achaemenid Persian: Here is an army that does a little bit of everything but nothing particularly well. The scythed HCh are the primary advantage. B-armed Kardakes LMI are also good troops especially when near the C-in-C with a PA standard (one of the few armies in Book I to have one). Lots of cavalry gives this army many of the skirmishing advantages of the Skythian list, but except for the scythed chariots, no other real punch units exist. Missile fire is enormous though, making an otherwise strong opponent disordered and now attackable. Another disadvantage is the lack of shields for the 30 required HC. Only 2 elephants (one in the list, buy a second one to stay in line with rules in 7th) hardly make it worth the cost but they are another sorely needed shock troop. Like the Skythians, this Persian list can only hope to hit people on the flanks after pinning with LC and LI; anything frontal is pretty much doomed (unless the opponent was shot apart). Still, there is little to hit the flanks with effectively. Should play in either scale.
Gallic: Another predominately irregular LMI army so run it in 25mm forall the reasons previously stated. Don't bother making any of the Warriors MI, if you want that, play Galatians instead. The upgrade to Irr A is the primary attraction; it does work well preventing unease and beats Irr C troops any day (both can roll down 4 just as easily as the other but those Irr As can always roll up big time). You get just enough skirmish troops to keep your opponent honest. No effective missile troops are the big drawback. This army strongly displays the second theme mentioned before: shock versus maneuver. You generally won't do a lot of lateral movement with the Gauls, just aim them in some direction and let the dice roll what they will.
Alexander Macedonian and Imperial: These two lists combine to make the most popular armies (in terms of number of players) I see at tournaments. Both are basically the same, the Indian Allies in the Imperial list being the main difference. Both embody the "combined arms" aspect tournament players live. Both are also very forgiving for beginning players; it's hard to goo up too badly. The pikemen are well, pikemen, always tough. As mentioned, the old 16-man pike block moves just like a Roman maniple, very effective on the table if historically inaccurate. Plenty of LI for skirmishing and plenty of rough terrain troops (Thracians and the historically ambiguous Hypaspists). You also have plenty of wedging LC too. The prime shock force for the Macedonian list is the Companion HC. Be careful, these shieldless L-armed troops are very vulnerable to missile fire. Always have an LI screen nearby (or in front) to absorb the enemy missile fire. The Companions have good morale, good maneuverability because they're regular, and can charge over most nottoo-armored opponents. Always have a sub-general charging to get the Companions to go impetuous. The Imperial list differs by having Skythian and Bactrian LC in addition to the mentioned Indians. At 1500 points, the Indian buy limits options to required troops only. Still, those chariots and elephants, combined with pike and HC L are pretty tough to beat in either scale.
The Successors: I'm lumping these armies together since they share many of the same troop types: Asiatic Early Successor, Lysimachid, Macedonian Early Successor, Seleucid, and Ptolemaic. Asiatic: An army you'll love if you are into lots of pike and L-armed HC. The army looks very one-dimensional at first glance but has surprisingamounts of LC and LI. The' B, Y25-armed LI is some of the best missile firing light infantry in the game. The Greek mercenaries are flexible, being either Pikemen or rough terrain LMI. Usually buy only the 40 point elephants. The drawback to the excellent morale of the HC is the lack of shields. However, you can usually cover them with missile casualty absorbing Ll. Once you masterthis trick, this army is pretty tough in either scale. Lysimachid: The most mis-pronounced army around. Now repeat after me: Lie-si (as in similar)-ma-kid. Stress the "si". An army similarto the Asiatics with a core of pikemen and L-armed HC in wedge. The Thracians are the main attraction here, being some of the best rough terrain troops in 7th edition. You should only arm the front rank with 2HCW, leaving the back rank to fight with J LS. The Thracian LC is nice since it too wedges but is the only effective LC in the list. LI is plentiful and varied although its missile power is not quite as effective as the Asiatic list's Ll. The elephants are too few to bother with. The biggest drawback to this army is its susceptibility to unease. Armored cavalry, knights, chariots, or elephants wreak havoc with Thracian peltasts out in the open. To avoid this, play in 25mm only; at least you should get more terrain on the table than in 15mm. Macedonian: Probably the weakest army in this series due to its reliance on regular LMI. Great if you think you will get all your terrain rolls; bad if you fight in the open. The wedging HC is not numerous and the LC is almost non-existent. The LI is average (about like the Lysimachid). Elephants and Galatians are useful options and really provide the only punch in this army, a frightening thought considering how unpredictable the dice can be with those troops. Another 25mm only list.
Seleucids: The successor army with everything, which explains its continued popularity and success. This army is very forgiving to players; it allows you to make mistakes' and not regret them. Elephants, scythed HCh, elephants, and SHC working in conjunction with LI, LC and pike is an almost unbeatable combination in the hands of experienced players. Morale can be a problem with some of the light troops but they generally get paid to die anyway. Rough terrain troops are numerous. The Galatians are a luxury I see many players take, only to depend these I rr A fanatics to always roll up; they tend to disappoint you at crucial moments. Once you master the combined arms movement and attack modes, this army will consistently win games. If you like individuality at conventions, don't take this list; you'll be one of many in the crowd. Like the Asiatic list, Seleucids are good for beginners. Ptolemaic: This army tries to combine some of the better aspects of the
Asiatic and Lysimachid lists (many wedging HC and Thracians) without doing either very well. The African elephants are numerous and always a wise buy. As with all these lists, rough terrain troops are plentiful. While the LI seems numerous, their poor morale sometimes gets them routed before they can either inflict missile damage or slow the enemy down. If you must play a successor army and want to win consistently, take the Asiatic, Lysimchid, or Seleucids instead.
Camillan Roman: Also popularly known as Republic Roman. The HI are the meat of this army but often have trouble closing against others in 15mm. The HI usually hold theirown against other predominately infantry armies, especially if they withstand the initial impetuous charge by loose irregulars. They are really tough against other regular foot armies inflicting severe damage with the pila. Rough terrain troops are numerous but are mostly "D" class morale, makingthem a risky buy. The Numidian LC and LI are good allies, givingthe HI room to move. They do this well in 16-figure blocks. The historical manipular tactics work well with the Romans, allowing flexibility in deciding where to attack or counterattack. This army is vulnerable to cavalry armies with light and armored shock cav. That HI is expensive and there never seems enough of it to go around. Best buy the Camillans in 25mm with wise terrain choices to cut the table down to size. Otherwise, 15mm Romans usually get flanked by anyone with more figures.
Bactrian Greek: Another "successor" army in one sense but is more of a finesse list. The pikemen are there, but the rest of the army is mainly cavalry and Ll. The Saka allies are the option I've seen most and the Bactrian HC also comes equipped with B. Unfortunately it's still shieldless, but again, LI screens usually solve that problem. The missile fire of this army is quite good, and being mostly on horse gets it around the battlefield quickly. Strike troops are usually the elephants and Saka nobles. The "pin and punch" strategy works best with Bactrians; use the hordes of LC to pin, then punch with the strike troops. Everything is cheap enough so you can flood the board with LC units (the kind of thing Camillan Romans hate to meet). Another two-scale army.
Parthian: An army with one great shock force: all those SHC. With the enormous numbers of LC, the army looks easy to run. Unfortunately, the SHC have little staying power, usually being good for only one impetous charge. Also, they rack up fatigue points ratherquickly with only 8 figures to a unit (the most common size I've seen). What rough terrain troops that are available, all have very poor morale. However, against non-pike infantry armies, the Parthians do quite well. Even the pike armies get worried with hundreds of LC running around. The battle then comes down to who can eliminate whose skirmish screen first. If the Parthians are successful, they generally then have flanks. If not, often times in tournament format, they win on points. While theyare mounted, the Irregular troop classes do not cut down on maneuver. The cataphracts should only commit when the enemy is flanked and pinned. Otherwise, they are sometimes hard to redeploy if committed too early. Due to the needed room to move and better chance of clear terrain, play this army only in 15mm.
Spanish: The best "barbarian trash" army in Book I. The Celtiberians can take out any infantry they meet. The HTW-armed Scutarii, while susceptible to unease, are so numerous that you never seem to miss a unit if it routs. The LC and LI have good morale but no missile fire from anything beyond 40 paces. Nevertheless, there's something psychologically uplifting about putting over 280 figures on the board at 1500 points, sometimes outnumbering your opponents 3:1. Again, Scutarii are very unease prone, making them targets for elephants, SHC, and knights. The Spanish are a tough call scale-wise. In 25mm you get more terrain to hide and move the Scutarii in, yet with so many troops, traffic jams develop. In 15mm, you don't have the traffic problems but put the Scutarii in harm's way. I lean towards 15mm because generally, you can get the Celtiberians to do the fighting with the Scutarii held in reserve. Your light forces are generally enough to screen targets long enough for the Scutarii to get in battle when needed.
Numidian: An army I've never seen at a convention but I always hear players saying "yea, I'm gonna paint Numidians for next time". I've yet to see "next time". Still, this army has possibilities. At close range, the LC/LI are very effective missile troops and skirmish screen killers. enemies with numerous missile weapons should stop most Numidian lights though. Use the option with Juba as the C-in-C. At least you get up to 8 elephants. You also get HI HTW-armed imitation legionaries but they must stay at the "Reg D" morale level. The elephants will be the only real strike force so use them carefully. The imitation legionaries should be pretty good at holdingareas while the lights and elephants do the job elsewhere. Drawbacks are the almost total lack of effective rough terrain troops and missile troops. If you want to play mostly LC and LI, expect lots of draws but almost no wins. The number of LC dictates usingthis army in 15mm, but it might work in 25mm if you keep light troops to a minimum.
Maccabean Jewish: I've seen this army more lately. The attraction must be the 80 Irr A upgraded figures. The rest of the LMI and LI Guerrillas can be upgraded to Irr C. The best advantage this army offers is the few required troops. If you're inclined to run loads of Irr D LMI, you can. It won't win you many games, but you can flood the table with figures. The only real shock force is the L-armed EHC. this army will love getting all its terrain picks, so play it strictly in 25mm. Otherwise, the poor morale, lack of diverse troops, and few shock cavalry will hurt you in the open.
Marian Roman: The most popular of the Book I Italian/Roman armies. While retaining the strengths of the Camillan list (lots of HTW-armed HI), this list provides many of the same allied troops but their morale is much better. All this combines to make the Marians more flexible in meeting a variety of opponents. You get a little bit of everything here, the Spanish Scutarii and African elephants being some of the better options. There are also plenty of missile-armed light troops for most situations. No shock cavalry is a major drawback. Keeping the Scutarii eager will add to the overall shock value of the army. While some of the allied cavalry can wedge, it never comes in good quantities. If you like static defense, the ditches, palisades, and unemplaced stakes give the opponent a tough time. Marians are one of the better defensive armies. The variability of troops will always keep your opponent guessing. Due to this, you can play it in either scale, depending on the troops used. Marians will rarely destroy you quickly, but can stand with the best and wear down an opponent.
This review represents much of my experience in umpiring tournaments. I've seen most of the above armies at least once. Nevertheless, my bias probably shines through. Book I armies remain the most played at conventions, some more than others. There is even an upswing in some of the Biblical chariot armies, in some part due to the NASAMW's effort in "improving" the lists in those areas. Besides, they are fun on the table. Also, Kruse's comments of years ago about getting noticed painting-wise still apply; different armies stand out to the judges.
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