Introduction

War in Miniature ™ is a set of rules for small unit actions from the late 19th century to the early 1960's. The rules are broken down into four sets:

1. Late 19th century: Zulu, 1st Afghan War through the 2nd Anglo Boer War.
2. World War I: Russo-Japanese War through the early 1930's.
3. World War II: Spanish Civil War through 1950.
4. Post World War II: Korea, Indochina, Maylasia, Algeria, Belgian Congo, etc.

These rules were designed to be fast and fun. Each rules set has a basic rules section in which the nuts and bolts are covered, and an optional rules section which covers some of the more detailed aspects of the era (the optional rules may be used in whole or in part, as they do add to the complexity). I've tried to keep the basic rules simple. Some will say too simple; others will say not simple enough.

Both the basic and the optional rules were designed for the player to be thinking more about the tactics to be used ("..if I have the 2nd squad lay down covering fire, I might be able to get the 1st squad behind them...") rather than trying to play the system ("...if I get 15 figures all firing from less than 8", I should eliminate 3/4 of the targets..."). They do not pretend to be a definitive simulation of small unit actions in any of the time periods covered.

The layout for each rules set is basically the same and an effort has been made to have, where possible, sections and subsections numbered alike. Each rules set has a basic rules section in which is covered the nuts and bolts of the rules, and an optional rules section which covers some of the more detailed aspects of the era covered.

Scale: Figures, guns and vehicles are a 1-for-1 scale. These rules were written for 15mm miniatures but, they could easily be modified for 20mm or 25mm miniatures.

Basing: The base size I use is 1/2" X 1/2" metal bases for foot soldiers, 1/2" X 1" for horse, and 1/2" X 3/4" for odd sized pieces such as medium and heavy machine-guns, heavy mortars, and other heavy weapons types. Artillery pieces, limber, wagons and vehicles are not based, this is just a personal preference and you may base them if you wish.

Using metal bases allows you to form larger units for movement and formation purposes. Using a larger base of magnetic material (say 1/2" X 2") would give you a 4-man stand. Conversely you can use 1/2" X 1/2" magnetic bases and larger sheet metal movement stands. But you can use any type you want (round, square, metal, plastic, cardboard) or none at all.

Concepts: In this system there is no premeasuring allowed. I've always found that premeasuring to see if you (or your opponent's troops) were in range of your guns, cavalry, etc. was very gamey and very unrealistic. First declaring your action and then measuring makes much more sense and can make for a very interesting game. So remember, if at the time of an action you measure and find yourself short then the figure ends his move there; if firing, it has missed.

Keeping control of who's who and what figures belong to what unit has always been a problem in wargaming whether board or miniature. This is especially true with small unit fighting where there may be several squads present from several different companies, as well as attached units on each side. There are many ways to represent which figures are assigned to which group, squad, company or other unit.

There can be "X" number of figures on a base, "Y" number of bases in a movement tray, or as in Napoleon's Battles by The Avalon Hill Game Company, a label that identifies the unit. In small unit or skirmish games, a unit is usually defined by having a certain number of figures assigned to a leader. In this system I use a colored spot to designate leaders and the figures that are assigned to that leader.

As an additional aid you can use a small piece of magnet (like the kind that is sold in office supply stores to magnetize business cards) cut slightly narrower and 1/2 times as long as the figure base, and mark it with a colored spot to show command or replacement leader figures, etc. Use the sheet of colored dots included with these rules (Avery 1/4" removable 05796 or Avery TD-5737) to mark your units. A color can equal a section, squad, platoon, etc. White dots are always the command. Black dots are always vehicles. Detailed examples are given in each rules set.

Each module is a completely self contained rules set with its own font style for easy identification. They are all three hole punched to allow you to remove only the set of rules and charts you will be using, and in that way you don't have to carry or flip through rules that don't apply to the game that is being played.

Scenarios

There are two scenarios included with each rules set to enable you to get up and playing quickly. As with any wargame, liberties have been taken as far as terrain. All the scenarios are designed for a four foot by six foot table but, they can easily be played on any size table.

The first scenario in the 19th century set is "We'll Teach Them a Lesson". This is set at the beginning of the first Anglo-Boer War and is loosely based on the battles fought around the Lang's Nek area in 1881. It may be played by 1 to 7 players. The second scenario in the 19th century set is The Fields of Eaton. This may be played by 1 to 5 players and is an excellent training scenario. The idea and some of the setup information comes from the book and movie "The Four Feathers" and from numerous articles in the wargaming press over the years.

The scenarios for the World War One rules set are: Make the Kaiser Dance which takes place in 1914 and is based on many of the battles and skirmishes that took place during the British retreat from the Mons. The number of players can be from 1 to a dozen or more. And, Make the Kaiser Dance, Again which takes place in l918 and is based on the many small battles and skirmishes that took place from the Allies breaching the Hindenburg Line to the Armistice.

One of the scenarios for the World War Two rules set takes place on the eastern front: Breakthrough, Roskovka, 1943. The Russians have broken through and are running amuck in the rear areas. And the other takes place on the western front: "They're Not Supposed to be Here!", Arnhem, 1944. On the Renkum-Wolfheze road, the British are establishing their landing-zones and the Germans have been ordered to eliminate the reported paratroop landings.

The scenarios for the Post-World War Two rules set are: The Korean War, 1950 Along the Naktong. The North Koreans are probing the lines in preparation to their final offensive. And The Indochina War, 1954 The Fall of Isabelle. The Viet-Minh are preparing to overrun the last outpost at Dien Bien Phu. Will any of the French Legionaries be able to escape and evade?

Finally, remember that these (or any wargame rules for that matter) are not infallible. There will always be some unforeseen circumstance that has been overlooked during writing or play-testing. Rules are for the guidance of the wise, so use your imagination and common sense to come up with a solution, if only the highest dice score is right. Above all, remember to have fun!

Some things to remember. A zero on a 1D10 is always counted as 10. A weapon with a range of zero inches is still effective at anything less than an inch. As in a lance, the target must have either the base touching the base of the lance-equipped figure, or the lance equipped figure must be less than one inch from the target.

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