Day Two
On Day Two, we headed for Quatre Bras and spent time discussing the opposing armies tactics both before and during this battle. Derek was able to show us the farm used as a field hospital where the French lancers galloped in after breaking through the Allied lines. The monuments were again photographed by Eric. We all commented that in general, the monuments are not looked after by the Belgians, who really seem complacent about the whole matter.
Driving back through Genappe we passed over one of the old bridges in the middle of the town, where the British Cavalry successfully drove off their French counterparts during the Allied withdrawal.
At right, Wounded Eagle monument.
Leaving Eric and Ian at Le Caillou to visit the museum, and walk back to Mont-Saint Jean following the line of the Allied withdrawal, Derek and I headed for Waterloo town to lunch with Lucien Gerke, 'Conservateur' of the Waterloo Museum. Derek needed the information and necessary paperwork as to how to apply for planning permission to re-construct the well head. This is a very lengthy process, approval having to be gained from no less than 5 different bodies at various levels of Government.
Tomb Endangered
Lucien and his wife entertained us most admirably, and the long lunch was superb. Discussion was also held on the future of the tomb of Colonel Stables, First Foot Guards, at Joli Bois. The tomb was re-erected by Derek a few years back with a little help from some "friends", the Belgian army (not all of them!) and a crane. When it was found it had been dismantled by the occupier of the house, and used as a base for his greenhouse.
Application for permission to demolish the premises and redevelop the site around Joli Bois mean that the tomb would be lost, and Derek put to Lucien his concerns over this, and suggested that it might be possible for the tomb to be relocated on the same site, using it as a feature of the new pathway and road, keeping it intact and retaining a piece of Waterloo history.
Lucien agreed that the proposal sounded good and he would approach the necessary authorities to obtain a positive agreement. He would also provide Derek with all necessary papers to make a start on applying for permission to rebuild the well. By mid afternoon business was over. We bid farewell to our host and headed back to the battlefield to meet Eric and Ian who had arranged to meet us, strangely enough, in a bar. Needless to say, they weren't there.
After an hour or so, Derek and I wandered down to Hougoumont for further chats with our friends the Temerman's, eventually meeting our two companions, who, with enormous grins on their faces, produced some musket balls, metal strips, electrical conductors, barbed wire and a chicken bone. We were able to sort out the rubbish, which left some nice souvenirs for them to take home.
An evening in Genappe was arranged, and we walked part of the route the French army took through the town, finding Duhesmes' grave and the house he died in after Waterloo.
Day Three
On the morning of Day Three we all visited the Plancenoit area Derek giving us so much information on the route of the Prussian advance through the hilly and wooded countryside. He really is a walking encyclopaedia on the battle.
At right, Polish Lancers memorial.
Again we split up for lunch, Derek and I being invited to Hougoumont, and Ian and Eric to further explore the battlefield around La Haie Sainte and La Belie Alliance, taking more photographs as they went around.
It really was a great experience to go into the house at Hougoumont. We were made most welcome by our friends the Temerman's, Derek talking about old times and me practising my French on the family. They were most impressed, as they laughed a lot!! Much later, we picked Ian and Eric up and drove to Waterloo town, where Derek purchased a life size bust of Napoleon for his museum. Eric and I, in the back of the car, held the bust so that we could turn it to look out of the side windows which bought us some funny looks from other drivers and pedestrians, particularly when an arm would wave at them.
At a bar in Waterloo we had a rest, and Ian and Eric, who up till then would not tell us anything about their adventures of the day started to open up. They produced more musket balls, and what appeared to be either a French artillery cannon bucket holder or a meat hook. We weren't sure which one it was. Then, with faces beaming, they placed on the table two buttons (at right).
The first was a hemispherical button, which we recognised as being a French Plastron button. The second, which they had found alongside it, was a perfectly preserved French button with eagle surmounted by a crown, with lightening forks under, also in pewter. We were gobsmacked. The musket balls and other odds and ends were put aside, were these buttons off a lancer of the Guard tunic? They must have been worn on the day. Silence reigned. What a find. We just couldn't believe it.
Celebrations were in order. Even Eric bought a round. We toasted Wellington, Napoleon (much to Derek's disgust) and even French button makers. As this was our last evening at the hotel, Eric decided to treat us all to a meal. We set off in optimistic and humorous mood, to where Eric had the surprise. Yes, it was a Belgian equivalent to McDonalds. Wow!! It really made the day.
Surprisingly, we didn't stay too long, and headed for the hotel bar, to acquire the customary souvenir beer glasses which will be produced at summer barbecues to impress boring neighbours.
Day Four
On to Day Four, and after paying the bill, we loaded the car and set off for Genappe centre, to find the disused river bridge used by the French during the campaign. We followed the river street by street, losing Eric and Ian, who we eventually found in a Patisserie speedily eating those huge jam and custard cakes. Derek and I decided we would surrender to temptation as well. So what!
Eventually after much compass work, map reading, back-bearings and a lot of luck, we found it.
The bridge was there, dilapidated, overgrown, in the middle of a copse with one end entering someone's back garden, but there it was. Twin span of brick, just wide enough for a cannon to pass. We took the photographs, and admired the fact that despite years of absolute neglect, the bridge was still to be found.
At right, En Haut, Ligny.
On now to Ligny. We eventually found the town, and luckily we saw a plaque on a wall indicating the Headquarters of the Belgian Napoleonic Association (or equivalent). We introduced ourselves to a modern day Legros, who was no help at all. He pointed to the square and shut the door. Off we went, the church was closed, but we found the Napoleonic siege cannon near the farm, and that alone made the visit worthwhile. After more photographs, it was off to Waterloo for visit to the Wellington museum. Sadly, not all the exhibits are on show. Damp on part of the first floor has closed these rooms to the public. Some regiments have also removed some of their donated exhibits. Nevertheless, we were all impressed, as usual, with the visit and the relies and reminders of the battle.
A quick lunch in a nearby bar, and Eric again acquiring a souvenir beer glass, and we were off to Ostend for the ferry.
The crossing was uneventful, and we arrived a Derek's house late evening for an overnight stop. His wife, Dorothy, again provided us with her wonderful cakes and hospitality, and after a good nights sleep, we went with Derek to his Waterloo Museum at Crow Hill, Broadstairs, Kent to look over the exhibits. We were given the full tour, myself and Derek remembering past visits and admiring Derek's handiwork in building the premises prior to him housing his vast array of relics and exhibits.
We sadly wished him farewell, and headed for the motorways after a truly informative and exciting '5 day weekend'. Are there more buttons there? We know the location (well Eric and Ian do!). Our next visit is later this year or early next.
Who knows what we may find next time!
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