I hate to say it, but historical garners are smarter than fantasy players. I came to this conclusion after crossing the aisle at hobby shops throught the world and seeing that at one side figures were between $.68 and $1.50, and at the other they were . . . well, I can't even say it.

All joking aside, I do find myself in what is called the purist camp. I have nothing against fantasy players, kill whatever turns you on, I believe; but, what is this missionary fervor that fantasy players seem to have that they can't be happy until they have convinced me all and other gamers to tum to the "dark side."

No, if I wanted to play with Balrogs, I'd be playing with Balrogs. No, little celtic druids cannot turn the Romans into stone on a 5 or 6, and yes, it would be funny if someone had an Uzi or ray gun tank and melted down all my Scots (It would make Eric happy, anyway). I didn't know the fantasy world was in such sad shape that they needed space at Twister Con in order to survive. I don't even mind a few games, if they don't replace an historical game, but I do think articles in an historical magazine goes too far.

There are plenty of fantasy magazines out there for that purpose. So unless we historical gamers don't submit enough material to fill this magazine, I would try to keep an historical bent.

I have written before and discussed painting, but wanted to add a few thoughts about my technique. I use a black primer and I think with the right technique it is better than white or gray. A black primer, white dry brushed, with a judicious mix of washing and brushing turns out an excellent figure in a fairly short time period. In discussing face painting before, I haven't discussed blacks, so I shall remedy that.

After A) priming the figure, B) quickly dry-brush it with a cream or canvas color then C) with a wet dark choclate (defined as paint that is just a touch runny) I paint all the skin parts. When that is dry, I D) brush a dark flesh (white) on the eyebrows, nose cheek bones or any other muscled area that would reflect light. When that is dry, I E) take the same dark brown and thin it down, washing over the highlighted areas which blends the two together. It is better to thin the paint too much, than too little. Eyes remain the same - a black line where the socket is and then two white specks on each side of what would be the pupil. I do this right after step B, so you do have to watch the washes don't get in the eyes. You can wait until after step D, or even E, but I prefer to do it earlier.

Cloth

This same technique works on certain colors of cloth. After the major color is brushed on I highlight the ridges with a much lighter color and then wash with either a black wash or wash of the original color, depending on how pristine I want the uniform to appear. The washes tend to blend the two extremes closer together. If the wash is done right, there should still be contrast but not a stark diffemce between dark and light

Tartans

Those patterns that drive many to distraction, destruction and denunciation, can be a lot of fun if several rules are followed. It is better to paint too few lines than too many, as the patterns become muddy; but it doesn't mean you have to be satisfied with one-line Scots. Start with the lightest color and paint the whole kilt that color. If you are doing historical kilts your color (blue if your underlying color is green, yellow if blue, pink, brown or vlue over red and paint lines going vertical and horizontal. These lines need to be thick enough so that you can now paint a thin line in their middle. Yellow or red work well. There should now be lines separated by boxes. With a bright color (again red or yellow are my favorites) and in a thin line, paint vertical and horizontal lines in the boxes forming crosses.

This is as much as I do no a 15mm figure. A 25mm figure I vary with other patterns such as: after the first lines are drawn, in stead of one line down their middle, I paint two lines dividing them into thirds, which gives you little boxes at the point the big horizontal and vertical lines meet. These boxes can be filled in with a bright color and the crosses are painted in the big boxes. You will need thin brushes for this but a well done kilt is worth the effort.

A word here on historical patterns. The Scottish regiments have defined patterns and colors as do modern clans, but as late as the Jacobite era, there were no clan tartans - so feel free to act as the village weaver and make up different patterns for them ferocious highlanders, otherwise you'll need a book.

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