FROM FLAGS TO LADDERS


From time to time we get Sapper's Report ideas that are too short to be an articles by themselves. I combined two for this report - ED.

EASY LADDERS AND FENCES

By Steve Fratt

I always enjoy visiting craft stores to see if there are any gizmos that I could use as wargaming aids. One item I came across is a Quick Count - 7 Mesh Canvas by Uniek Crafts Company. You can find these at WalMart, crafts stores, and the like.

Quick Count is a plastic grid, 10 1/2" x 13 5/8", that comes in a variety of colors and can be cut easily with a pair of large scissors. Black grids may be cut into railroad tracks. Just cut off a strip 4 lines wide, then trim off the outer lines to get two parallel lines with ties sticking out along either side. A brown grid may be fashioned into a variety of ladders, including some nifty "Alamo" style ladders. Brown or gray can be used to make fences.

At first, it looks like only 15mm and lower scales might benefit from these grids. However, if you think creatively, you can see that larger sections of grid may be cut away inside your widely placed fence posts or railroad ties to produce larger scale pieces. Give it a try, the material is inexpensive and one grid will make hundreds of ladders.

MAKING TOUGH FLAGS

By Fred Askew

I saw the reader's Volley Fire question in Issue # 66 about how to make tough flags. Like that reader, I game in many areas where there are no factory built flags available (sigh) and have had to create my own. I've been making laminated flags for about fifteen years now, and I've never had one destroyed. Flagpoles sometimes break off of a casting when I drop it, but the flag itself always survives. To make laminated flags:

  1. On any clear, white paper (copier, computer, typing, etc.) draw the flag in black ink.
  2. Color in the drawing using either colored ink pens or acrylic paints, depending on what effect you want. Inks will usually produce brighter colors and are easier to use, but paints come in more exotic colors and have texture (to keep a black border around each section of the flag design, don't cover the black ink lines).
  3. Flagpoles made of lead bend too easily, so replace them with either brass or steel wire. Brass is fine for the smaller scales (15-18mm), but steel is probably better for the longer poles (25-30mm) - be sure to file down the sharp tip of the wire to avoid puncturing your hand during a game. You will have to cut the lead pole off most castings, and then either cut open the casting's fists or drill holes through them before you paint.
  4. Use epoxy glue to place the wire pole on the casting. When the lead pole is first cut off the casting, the result may look pretty bad. Don't worry, with proper shaping of the epoxy, filing, sanding, etc., you can rebuild the destroyed hands to a crude but serviceable condition. Of course, the more sculpting talent you have, the better the new hands will look.)
  5. After the flagpole is ready, (the epoxy has hardened:) cut out the paper flag and fold it in the middle. Spread Elmer's Glue-All on one half of the inside (I use an old paint brush to spread the glue in an even, thin layer.) and then place the flag around the wire flagpole.
  6. Be sure to match the two halves of the flag exactly when you glue them together. You don't want any parts overlapping. If you only slightly screw it up, you can trim some of the flag off with small scissors or a craft knife.
  7. After the flag is glued in place, touch up any white edges with ink or paint (unless the edge is supposed to be white )
  8. Cover both sides with a water thinned coat of Elmer's (use the old paintbrush again). Once dried, the Elmer's gives the paper a tough, leathery feel. You can even bend the flag to some extent to make folds and ripples. You now have a laminated flag with three layers of Elmer's and two of paper.
  9. Unfortunately, dried Elmer's will dissolve if water gets on it (for example, dripping off a soda can during a game). To completely protect the flag, cover it with a clear waterproof coating. I normally spray my castings anyway, to protect the paint, so the flag is no extra work.

Options

  1. You can make the flag and the casting two separate projects, and glue them together only after they are both finished.
  2. You can replace flags on already-painted castings (but you will have to redo the paint job on at least the hands, if not more).
  3. You can put Elmer's on the paper before you draw the flag. This makes the lines sharper (no bleed) and adds an extra two layers of Elmer's for even more toughness.

Note: I specify Elmer's Glue-All because I don't know if other brands of white glue work as well. If they're all from the same vat, then any brand will do.


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